theczechone

Gabe why are you not sure about the head gasket? For cooling system pressure test on our prototype engines, we pressurize the cooling to 40psi and the acceptable criteria is less than 1 psi of pressure drop over 5 minutes. This is a little overkill but dyno time is much more expensive than build time. Anyway, car looks great, hope to catch up with you while im on the coast.

Hi guys, wondering if anyone has done this? The best i can tell, i will need to make a custom spacer between pillow ball and the BC top hat. I will post pics later.

I've got some out of a 240z know if they are the same?

I have T3 bolt in camber plates, front and rear, coilover sleeves and spring perches (GC style), 2.5" springs (225#& 250#), and stagg factory 240z struts. PM me for prices and pictures

Great work! Have you considered direct mounting the pump to the pan. Check out Dailey Engineering in CA http://www.daileyengineering.com/home/oil-pans/ I have used Bill's pumps in the past and they are very reliable. When i have designed pans for work, i found that it was nice to machine channels into the pan to direct oil to the scavenge ports of the pump. Much easier than packaging -12 lines.

I hate to revive an old thread but I'm currently in trying to figure a good way of reinforcing the side panels and creating the core support. Tony, I've searched for the thread you mentioned but no luck, could you or someone else point me to some ideas on how to do this? Thanks!

I was putting new fluid into my "rebuilt" r180. Didn't know what to use. I did some searching and most people suggested redline. Then, I came across a study that was interesting and well executed: http://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/gear-oil-comparison.pdf I then went to advanced auto parts and they had quarts of AMS Oil gear lube on clearance for $2.50 a quart. It was the clear choice.

I don't see the "bolt on" property of BC coilovers as a value or a reason to buy. You still have to get the threaded sleeves welded so it's still not a bolt on part. Went with BCs because they're a well established company that makes good parts. My strut towers have already been hacked on numerous times. So i could weld on a camber plate or go this route which will allow me to go with stock setup if i choose to do so at some point. If anyone would like the cut pattern for the hole in the center i can provide a template for cutting the stock towers.

My strut towers have been modified one too many times so I had some plates made up to weld on top of the towers. With these I can go back to stock suspension too.

I have a OEM mesh grill from a 74 fairlady. I think thereare subtle differences between the early models and the later ones. This one is the later I believe. It's in great shape. Pm me if interested

I have one from a '74 Fairlady 2+2. it had a R180 thou. The shaft is in great condition.

Nullbound, thanks for posting the links, i need to confirm which connection is on the calipers I have. I believe the connections are banjo type fittings and what is shown on silvermine motors are threaded fittings. NCchris, that's an interesting website. I will just need to confirm the connection points on the calipers and the chassis. Thank you all.

Thanks Miles, I have the bracket calipers and rotors just need hoses to connect back into my brake hard lines.

I'm looking for set of hoses for a maxima disc brake conversion. If someone has a part number or what application i need them for. It would be very helpful. Thanks.

are all your vacuum lines connected properly? I recently started mine, I'm not running the stock ecu so all issues won't apply, but the car was missing heavily and running like crap, just due to some unplugged manifold nipples.

Dan has got dibs but I also have the quarter windows as complete units, including the "stainless" frame

pm'd

I use Shapeways, you can select multiple different colors and even have it done in metal if you choose to, it just comes down to price. The first couple of prototypes I had done in abs plastic. Their "polished" plastic actually has a really nice finish. I am a design engineer for living so doing this doesn't take too much effort. When I'm finished with my design I'll post it on shapeways site for anyone to buy.

I may have a different solution. I've been working on custom gauge surround for my car that would house an autometer 2 5/8 gauge into the stock dash. I have at least 6 weeks left until i have parts ready, but if you're interested I could speed up the timeline. Currently I can get this printed for about $30 + shipping per each surround. Don't have a picture in the dash, but it's a good fit. The work that's left to do is mounting strategy. I have a concept, but I need time to test it on multiple different gauges. The goal is to be a direct bolt on swap into stock dash locations.

Thanks guys, taking out the spark plugs would definitely help in reducing the load on the bearings. I am familiar with the most common ways. When you google you find things like "spin the distributor shaft with a drill" which is not applicable and "turn the engine over until you see pressure build up". I guess I was maybe looking to see what other people have done with their RBs to prime the system.

Hi, I am getting really close to first fire on my RB25det swap, but I'm worried about priming the oil system. The engine hasn't run for quite some time so having a fresh coat of oil in all the right places would be great. I have searched on here in regards to the topic and the basic answer I found is, disconnect the fuel injector harness and just turn the engine over with the starter to build up the oil pressure. Would this, low speed turning of the pump be enough to generate enough pressure to supply the whole system? Is there another option? I heard of using an Accusump, but not sure how to integrate it into the oil system. Thanks,

The re-circulation valve connection should be connected to the low pressure inlet into the compressor The cam breathers are usually just connected across to equalize the pressure in both sides. People usually use these to setup their oil catch cans.

I've got a couple of pair, they can be yours for 25

To do it properly you will need two filters. Consider the diagram here : http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/power_planner_EFIsystems.pdf There you have a 100 micron filter before the pump and a 10 micron after the pump. Be careful when you use rubber hoses. They need to be rated for use with at least 60 psi fuel. I ended up redoing my complete fuel system with AN fittings and PushLok hoses. The stock RB fuel rail has a vacuum operated regulator on the end. I opted for an adjustable one from aeromotive, I am also not running the stock rail or injectors thou. Good luck

Thanks for your input guys, honestly I forgot that I posted this. I ended up going the pure turbos route and happy with the turbo, thou I haven't started it yet.