theczechone

I've got a couple. $15 shipped.

Came out of a 76 Fairlady Z - I can do $80 shipped. PM for paypal info

Replied to your PM

Hi, I have a 2+2 driveshaft, and I'm fairly close to you too, Plymouth,MI. I'll take $80 for it picked up. Let me know. - Michal

nicely executed for sure! ... taking notes!

Pmed

Emailed!

Welding on the cage into the strut tower was done by me, thou this is off topic... I only have a 110 mig welder and obviously as i welded there wasn't enough penetration so most of the weld ended up on the surface. As I grind down the weld I'll be able to see whether I had penetration or not. If not it will need to go to someone with a tig or at least 220 set up. ...yes it looks like crap and most likely wouldn't pass SCCA inspection, thank you. So the story I got from the PO was that he had bolt on plates, and he cut out the strut tower to match the plates, rather than just cutting a clearance hole as most people do with bolt on plates. As you can tell I don't have the proper welder or welding skills to weld in a new slider plate. Is this really my only option? Has any one seen a set of camber plates that would bolt to the bolt pattern around the perimeter of the cut out?

Hi guys, The previous owner of my car claimed to have installed some bolt-on camber plates but did not know the brand. I have been searching all around and can't find ones with similar bolt pattern. He cut out the top of the strut in the profile of the camber plate. The cut quality is really poor and I was going to cut it out in a similar pattern as most people do with the ground control plates. So I have two questions - What are these? - What would you do if you were in my shoes? ... It seems that bolt in sets like DP racing and Ground Control offer are much higher quality than the weld in sets by T3 and AZC but I'm sure everyone has their own opinion on that... Thank you for reading!

You didn't list it but I have a white headliner in decent condition available. Let me know

I have one in pretty good condition, I can do $120 shipped.

I've got some stub axles, from a 240z. As far as I know the only difference is the spline count for the half shaft flange. I have the flanges also. If you're interested, pm me and I can get you some pictures and a price.

pm'd

Pm'd you about rear struts.

Just inherited a bit of an inventory from a local Z guy who has given up on Datsuns after 25 years of racing and driving them, here is what I got: Empty housings (3 pair) ... would make for a good brake duct or a custom turn signal - $20/ pair Complete lens assemblies - 1 pair ... $100 - Left only ... $50 I have a set of Fairlady markers that I pulled from a 1976 Fairlady 2+2 parts car. These have the dual bulb setup for a driving light and a turn signal, the lens is full amber thou. I am currently in the restoration process but once finished I'd let these go for $250. None of the prices include shipping

pm'd

Hi, that would be great, I'd like to check for the crank end to end play, check for any scoring on the cylinder walls as was pointed out, and really just anything that looks out of place. If possible measure piston/deck height (how much the piston sticks out of the cylinder block). Again this would be greatly appreciated!

I think I see the score on the cylinder and that could definitely be a problem. His asking price is 1200 and it would cost me right around 400 to ship.

I am not currently near my computer, I'll try to repost pics as soon as I can. I didn't realize there was a f/s add for it on here. I found it on Craigslist. Also the engine is in California, I'm in Michigan so there will be a high cost of shipping in this for me. I am set on a stroker motor thou and I thought that combined this could be a good way to start. I am weary because I can't inspect the engine in person. Perhaps you can see better than me, but I did not notice any scoring, could you please elaborate. Thank you

I need some help, I am looking to buy an already assembled L31 long block and have a few pics from the guy, and there seems to be some corrosion on the coolant passage ways. I am not sure which are the oil passage ways, could you please look at the pics and tell me if the corrosion is "acceptable"? The block has been built about a year and a half ago and has been sitting in storage under cover since. My last 280 had a stroker and I loved it so I really want to build one again. anyway here are some pics, tell me if you think it's worth the while.

showcarbodyparts might want to give these guys a call before you start making molds and such, unless you just want to do it.

Thanks guys for the great info, I'm actually going to look at a parts car to buy this weekend so I'll decide what to do than. The cam is stock, and has Japan stamped on it as a stock one should. I have looked around the spray bar and the left "bridge" on the spray bar is actually bent, and has about a millimeter of clearance to the actual cam. I'd like to get a spray bar from larry but at that price, I could buy a whole used engine to drop in like you said. I was also thinking about straightening the bent "bridge", tapping it, and get oversized aluminum tubing that would thread in... i'll go see what I can find at the local Lowes. I feel like I'm going to get flamed for even thinking about that, but it's just another possible solution. It just seems too simple to be that complicated... I don't want to deal with replacing a head, cam or an engine for now ... just want to get this one in running condition.

Leon, where could I source a NEW spray bar, courtesy parts doesn't list one online ... and google search has turned up nothing NewZed, I'm not sure that a new cam is possible on my current budget. If I got a whole new cam wouldn't I'd have to replace the lash pads and springs and such? I actually have a coltcams C.542.s extra cam that came with my 77 3.1L stroker (I miss that car), and I was going to use it when I build another stroker motor. Wouldn't it be a waste installing this cam in this tired motor? If i did install it what all would need to be replaced in the valve train. Again thanks guys

^ that's what I was thinking. Because I don't have internal cam oiling, I should be able to run the engine w/o the valve cover and w/o making too much mess, is that correct? Just want to check that all the lobes are getting oiled.

Well, I have just purchased this car, and I'm just trying to get it to be in somewhat running and driving condition. The engine numbers do not match so I will build another engine to drop in. This engine is just supposed to get me around until than. I agree with everything you said. The car has sat for a couple of years and I'm sure that every seal in that head leaks, but it would be nice to take it around a block. I wanted to know if this is a performance cam or not as I understand that the valve clearance settings are different. From what it seems, it's just a regrind but I will inspect the cam for the Japan or any other stamp tomorrow. Thank you guys