theczechone

Ha thats what im using. Should have no issues I’m running it on windows 10

Looking for a good cam core to send to rebello for re-grind. Must be in fairly decent shape with not too much pitting.

@ryant67 I sent Isky an email describing my engine plans and asked for his suggestions for selecting a cam i got a reply that said. "I believe the 718148 is your best bet. See import catalog enclosed. Regards, Isky Cams"" The suggested cam is the L480 which falls quite short of the rebello cam. either way i ordered the cam from Rebello as i have heard good reviews and from my "calculations" it looks like what i want. No i just need to figure out if my core is good enough or source a spare to send to Dave. @30 ounce Your peak torque is in about the same place as my plot predicts but your torque drops off faster in the higher RPM. I wonder if the SUs were limiting you a bit in airflow. After all you were running 20% higher displacement than what those carbs were originally specified for.

Madkaw, do you have a dyno sheet for your engine?

yeah both of those cams are well suited for higher revving engines. Which is the only thing holding me back from the Don Potter cam. My pistons are still cast so my engine won't see much action above 7200 rpm. The clearance issues that Steve mentions are to the pistons. A higher peak lift will not affect valve to piston clearance as much an earlier and later closing valve. The higher lift will still require custom springs and valve seals. Personally i am leaning towards the 63DE (.487 lift, 279 duration)cam from rebello, it won't make as much peak power as the DP cam but much higher torque until 5200 rpm. Peak power will be around 6500. Plot shows both cams with 3 degrees advance. I would probably retard the 63DE which increases top end power. Retarding the DP cam really kills low end torque and the peak HP only slightly increases. Rebello also has a very attractive price for the cam, lash caps and springs (outer only required) as a kit.

The high lift is only good if your head can flow enough. If there is no more flow at the higher lift points the extra lift doesn't buy you that much. The port flow data used is from a Japanese ported N42.

Steve is a decent guy, I was trying to decide on a cam and i was stuck between the DP cam, Rebello 63D cam, and the ISKY L490. I used a very simple program called Desktop Dyno to try to simulate the vehicle behavior. After some discussion with Steve he shared the specs. He didn't have a dyno sheet to do a comparison but he did find the numbers to be lower than expected. There is a lot of assumptions in the model and the port flow is simply based on measurements a member has posted on facebook. Either way it should work well to compare cam to cam. So here is a comparison between the DP 535 cam(L28F) and the isky L490. This is "crank torque" and the assumptions are 87mm bore 79mm stroke; 44/35mm in/ex valves. 10.5 static C/R. 3 deg cam advance on both cams, free flow exhaust, induction flow = 1500 cfm @ 1.5 inHg.

https://tabcoparts.com/amfinder/

I may have missed it previously, but curious to why you chose to use cam towers instead of just caps?

They should, mine did, but I don't think my 240 master was original. It is a tight fit though.

Got my shirt and my hoodie today! Great products! Very happy!

Bought mine from O'Reilly auto parts. Works good. Pretty sure the ports are switched though. Front is back and back is front. So make sure your lines are routed correctly.

I just installed mine, my takata harness also came with eyebolts. You can remove the rear section of the harness and then use the takata bracket and wrap it. There are instructions for this online. it works out really nice. it's a great product for the price.

would love to see that port geometry and cylinder head water jacket.

Just like the title says, I'm looking to build an L28 and need some pistons. I am looking for forged because i would like to increase the revs a bit. I would prefer flat tops with valve recesses. Let me know what you have.

Glad yo were able to solve your fuel issues. the engine sounds awesome but how does it feel? is it everything you had hoped? Also 14 AFR at cruise seems fine to me why do you want to richen it up?

well after resolving some brake issues she has made it to work. I installed my BC coilovers that were meant for a previous project but that's gone now and with that i also installed the toyota 4x4 vented brakes in the front and maxima rear disc conversion in the back. Now supplied by a rebuilt booster and a 280zxt master cylinder. The wife and the little guy were helping to bleed the brakes, It still needs some dialing in but it's awesome to be back on the road!

this is a very subjective question but in my case it was always yes. perhaps my car history is not as exotic as you are looking to go but it is hard to replace the way a z drives and makes you feel. My first car was a '78 280z then i had a '72 240z, then i had a '77 280z and I followed that with a '74 260z and i daily drove all of these ... (yes i may have a problem) at this point i decided that i wanted a newer car I bought a 94 300zxtt it was fast but didn't get excited about driving it like the s30s, needless to say i spent most of the time driving my 260z that i kept because i was bored with the 300 or it was nonoperational. I then sold both cars and got a 77 280z with a 3.1L stroker by rebello and it was by far the most exciting car i've owned. since then i have been thru a few BMWs and a couple of hot hatches by Honda and nothing quite does it for me like the old S30. On the other hand if you are looking for status recognition and a wow factor then a old Datsun will probably not do that for you. If you are looking for genuine compliments and people telling you about their stories when they owned one in high school then the old datsun is the way to go.

ok so it seems that if i first open HBz then the PMs don't want to load but if i navigate anywhere in the site, I can open stuff. I guess that's fine.

seems to be working fine now.

Anyone else experience this? I can't seem to get to my private messages. Tried in mozilla and IE and both just have the two arrows chasing each other in a circle....

working with Tim at Jenvey USA on group buy pricing for a kit perhaps we could do the same with EFI hardware.

Postal code 48178 Qty. 1, Black Short Sleeve T shirt - Medium Qty. 1, Black Hoodie - Medium thank you for putting this together and I would also be interested in some stickers

I agree, if you buy piecemeal than you'll pay more. The kit listed in the original posting is a throttle plate with weld in bungs, not everyone has that ability and could be costly to have it done. Jenvey usa doesn't currently list a kit with three throttle bodies. I sent them a note if they could generate a price for a kit and also if they are open to group buys. I've been interested in one of these two option for a while. Just haven't pulled the trigger

In contrast here are the EFiHardware ITBs on an engine by PMC engines