theczechone

Looks great Zach, I have a similar intake for my car. Is that the isis intake? Are you going to run the q45 throttle body or just your stock one?

I have a nos left quarter(outer panel only), it's for a 240z so it has the bumper indent. It's not perfect so I don't want too much. I'm in michigan and it would be a tough one to ship without damaging it

do I understand correctly that you want all of the interior except for those parts? For example you do not need a rear seat.

Hi guys, Im new to the RB world, but I have inherited some great stuff from another member on here. The engine came with a Holset HX35 turbo although it's a popular option, I think it is too large and would produce quite significant lag. I'd like a quicker throttle response in trade for some horsepower. My power goals are 325-375hp and I was thinking about going with the Garrett GT2871r or GT3071r if I decide to go to higher power later on. My question is: Will either turbo fit on the stock manifold into the 240z chassis (clearance to the fender well)? I haven't dropped the engine in yet to see what room I have to play with. Thanks

I have a R180 4:11 ratio out of a 1974 fairlady z. It's in need of new seals

what are you looking for, unfortunately almost all zs rusted out in the same areas. so it may be difficult to find the panels you need in significantly better condition than the ones on your car. There are companies that supply a limited number of new sheet metal parts for our cars. Tabco is the company name i think. Good luck

Nice deal, I paid more than that for my focus!

Thank you, I've had similar thoughts.

anyone?

So I've started working on a N42 cylinder head and after a through cleaning of the combustion chambers I noticed small hairline cracks in between the intake and exhaust valves. I need to cut out the brass intake seats anyway so that is my next step to examine the crack further. But is this pretty common? Am I likely to run into the same issue with any other N42 i may get? Took the head to a local welder that does repair on aluminum race blocks and he said that he's seen that before on these heads, but the water jacket is deep in the casting so it's unlikely to leak. And even after repair the same problem would manifest itself again. The head was pressure checked before I bought it too. How likely is this head to survive a higher horsepower situation? Not sure of the numbers I would be running but comp ratio about 10.5:1 and still toying with the idea of around 8000rpm with all new valve train and forged pistons.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12e03/10-2000 I was just using this number, you can certainly put in a cam for less than that.

I agree that you should research the company and components that went into the engine. Maybe you should find out the specifics like lift of the cam, max rpm of the engine, final cylinder bore size, etc. it would definitely be more cost effective to buy am engine for 2k that's already done. You'll spend $800 on cam and valvetrain, $200 -$400 for a valve job, $200 to shave the head might need to replace valve seats, a cost for porting, flat tops are going to run you about $280 for a decent set of non forged pistons. And then you have all gaskets and seals timing chain and tensioner, water pump oil pump, and the list goes on. But that way you can get exactly what you want.

Maybe but they will need the profile geometry and fixturing. So delta cam would be much cheaper and because they have experience I would trust them before any other shop.

just pm'd ya!

I just sent mine to get reground by Delta Cams in Washington state. They said cost would be $3.50 per rocker and a two day turnaround on labor.

Looking for some low milleage Forged pistons 86.5 or 87.0mm bore. Looking to run 8000RPM which is what is pushing me to forged pistons. Let me know what you got. Obviously I would need a set.Thanks

This weekend i spend some time with my engine builder friend and we went through the valve train. We started off with centering the wipe pattern on the follower. We used thin feeler gauges to measure the added thickness to the lash and we would be happy with about 0.138" lash cap. Since that is not available i will go with 0.140". I'll have to recheck anyway as I just sent my followers to Delta Cam for regrind. As far as the springs we measured the bind height of inner and outer as well as forces at installed height and max lift. It seems that the outer spring could handle my lift just fine but the inner would have just 0.005" of clearance to bind during max lift. My friend has a nice machine shop so he suggested that we just machine down the inner spring seat to give ourselves more clearance. Then we calculated the inertia force of the valvetrain by weighing all the components and setting my max RPM. It seems that stock springs are good up to about 7250 RPM. Since my cam is suppose to top out around 6500rpm, I am just going to reuse my stock springs. and from the sound of it i might even be able to reuse my retainers with the larger lash cap. I have spreadsheets showing all the measurements and calcs if anyone is interested.

I have a nice 240z manifold and a couple of heatshields if you are looking for spares.

The 240z crossmember is different correct? If I know the early 70s ones were smaller and the later ones got the steering rack mounts reinforced. I have one of the late 240z ones, and I could probably do for 120 shipped. Shipping is going to kill me one this I presume. Pm me for pics or if you have any questions.

adam your car is quite the role model for mine so excuse me if I had stalked your site a little bit. Coincidentaly I have the same exhaust. I removed it from a fairlady z parts car I bought a while back. Did you have any trouble fitting your carbs? I thought I read somewhere that SUs will not work with the trust header because they sit too low. The parts car had tripple webers on a FET manifold which raises the carbs up a little. Also what size engine do you have in there? Just curious.

I looked at isky's catalog and contacted them in regards to the springs. I wouldn't think to consider the valve lash in the calculation as I thought with thermal expansion the lash would be taken up. I have heard of shimming the springs and that makes sense. I guess I'll wait to hear back from isky and then probably purchase the springs from them. I've also aksed them to explain getting new retainers. Most people mention getting new retainers for the springs and I am just wondering why is that necessary? And finally how do I size my lash pads? I know there is a thread talking about it but I haven't found it yet. If someone could post the link I'd be grateful. Thanks, also good to see someone that's local, Tim!

I am in process of rebuilding and upgrading a N42 head and I'd like to incorporate a cam I acquired with a car I bought a while ago. The cam is brand new and I have it which is 98% of the reason why I'd like to run it. Here is link to colt cams website: http://www.coltcams.com/html/camshaft/index.cfm They list 0.510" valve lift which is misleading, I have contacted them and they send me a sheet stating that they assume a 1.5/1 rocker ratio, and I believe that the L28 uses a 1.429/1, right? This would mean the valve lift is only 0.485" right? Now the problem becomes that the factory springs bind at 0.460" valve lift or higher, so I know I need new springs but I don't know which would be best. I spoke to a friend who has experience in design and development of valvetrains in race cars. He suggests that I need to get a springs that will bind at ~0.050" below my valve lift, springs that bind deeper than that can produce resonance in the valve train. Therefore my bind height of the spring should be: installed height - (0.485+0.05). I have looked at schneider and isky springs and both of those seem to bind much lower than that, so I wanted to get advice on if anyone has experienced unwanted resonance in their valvetrain when running these springs. Thanks for reading.

Right, the s12+8 set up that uses the 300zx vented rotors (what I have) also needs a low offset wheel basically anything 0 or less should work. I'm actually a fan of the swastika wheels, but haven't seen many for sale in my area... I think I'll be able to use my 14 temporarily until I get to buying the wheels that I want. Either way thank you for your answer.

Thanks for the replies but I have recently needed to realocate funds to my engine project so i will remove the calipers and roll around on the 14s. Please Close

upgraded the brakes on my 240z and so my 14" wheels won't fit. My car is long ways from being finished so i just need some wheels to roll the car on. My total budget for wheels and tires is $250 or also I have a list of parts for sale here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116356-various-s30-parts/ and we could work out a trade. Thanks