theczechone

The sleepless nights continue as i try to get the car ready for Midwest Z heritage show in 2 weeks. Mind you this car has still not driven more than 10feet on it's own power. But the interior is coming along well i haven't been taking pictures at every step but here is a short summary. - Installed carpet padding on the tunnel (the stuff is called Victoria's Pad .... I wonder if they meant to do that) apparently it's costco required under carpet insulation got it for $10 at my local flooring store. - Installed new vinyl kit from MSA, overall good fit but it's a pain to do and also very time consuming - Installed a refurbed pedal box that i had in my other car - Swapped all the gauges and wiring from the original dash to another one i had laying around that's in much better shape (forgot to swap the vin plate ... grr of course realized this after dash was installed - Installed the Dash - Connected all the wiring, checked each system for operation and checked for any loose wires that may be hot. I am not running a heater core or a blower motor at this time so i have some dangling wires right now - I installed the steering column with a Peyton Steering wheel (it's ok for now but i am keeping an eye out for a wood grain nardi in 13-14" diameter - I installed the center panel and console after thorough cleaning of these parts, they are not in best shape but they will do for now. - I got all the rear panels installed - Got my driver's seat mounted and finished off with some embroidered floor mats As for next steps, finish up the interior work, i still have the passenger seat to mount and the lower interior dogleg panels to install, i am also waiting for my harness bar from T3 and my takata harnesses are ready to go in. I have discovered that the mechanical pump has been leaking fuel into the crankcase by a strong fuel odor in oil. I will have to swap in my electric pump, something i planned to do in the future but now has to happen. Also have to swap all the suspension to my BC coilover setup which is welded up ready to go in. and swapping the R200 (3.54) with a rebuild R180(3.7) that i have on the shelf.

I'm not too sure, i think that unless you are looking for a throttle plate only I would still go with the Jenveys. So you can have a pair of Jenvey's for $608 https://jenveyusa.com/collections/throttle-bodies-twin/products/jenvey-dynamics-th-body-45mm-individual-throttle-bodies-pair Or you can have a single ITB from EfiHardware for $293 https://www.efihardware.com/products/2895/E-Series-DCOE-Throttle-Body so you are saving a whopping $33 for three. Then personally i like the Jenvey's better so i guess i am biased

Beautiful car, that rust seems very trivial compared to what i had deal with on Z cars before. Good Luck, also the wheels look like the 432r magnesium wheels. Are they?

Going with an ITB setup from Jenvey or EFIHardware should yield the same results as the webers and give you the reliability/tunability of EFI probably looking at just under 2k in induction after it's all set and done not that much different than webers or mikunis. ***TWM is also an option

I've seen them for as little as 700 and as high as 1200

depends on the condition of the plates i would say. How much do you want for it ?

Hmm that is interesting, seems that they have done this with the RKR wheels as well, I have a set of those in 15x8 +0 in matte gunmetal and polished lip. I think that your best bet might be to get a wheel set painted.

so I believe that the seller is associated with show-car body parts in Canada. I have heard varying things about them. Personally I bought a g nose from them 15 years ago, it took 7 months to get to me and the quality was mediocre.

Congrats on your 240z, it's super rewarding once the project comes together. If I may suggest, do small projects at first and always complete a task before starting a new one. From past experiences I've learned that doing a ground up restoration is super difficult unless time and money is no object. Either way good luck

Progress is slow but things are happening! I painted the engine bay and underside. Because I had to repair the battery tray are I needed a new tray or repair the original one. I opted to try the z car depot's stainless tray. I like the looks of it and I might choose to move the battery to the rear of the car at some point. I think it turned out great. I also installed some sound deadening and heat insulation. I would like this car to be more of a GT car than an all out racer.

turns out he wants to hold on to the car, will let you know if anything changes

Just in case anyone has same questions as mine, I installed the battery tray this past weekend. The cheaper version tray feels very rigid and nicely made. The fit is quite good, better than i expected, didn't have to bend or adjust anything. Installation was as easy is setting it in place, drilling and deburring the holes. I used some black RTV on the bolts to prevent road grime to get into the engine bay. I used plastidip to coat the back side of the mating surfaces to create a "rubber layer" between the tray and the wheel well. This should also help with the galvanic corrosion issues mentioned in this thread. I also used large fender style washers to spread out the bolt loads. Here are some pictures.

i don't think this is caused by the exhaust and it is quite common on large diameter exhaust with no resonator. My 3.1L stroker motor with a 3" diameter exhaust and a hooker chambered muffler popped like crazy when i tip out of the throttle. what happens is that a bunch of unburned gasoline ends up in the exhaust and self ignites, at least my theory

I also have recently sold a rust free shell 71 240z to a guy locally in lansing michigan and I'm not sure how committed he is to building it so let me know and i can give you his contact info if interested.

So the meguires "smell bomb" definitely changed the aroma in the car. Keep in mind that i scrubbed all accessible surfaces with a heavy duty degreaser prior to using this stuff. There is still on area on the passenger rear quarter panel that if i stick my head in there and inhale there is a faint smell. I think for right now it'll do. I figure once i put the interior panels back on the smell would be unnoticeable. The ozone generator idea is interesting though. Thanks for all the help!

Wow grannyknot, that's impressive, my guys were much further decomposed than that. I was not hoping to go to such great lengths as having the car acid dipped, but I did gut the interior scrubbed all the surfaces and today while I was at the parts store I asked if they have anything. They gave me this meguires re-fresher. It's almost like a bug bomb. You set it off in the car with the doors shut and it is supposed to deodorize the smell. It was 5bucks so I said might as well try it. I'll let it soak in overnight and see how it does. The garage is starting to smell fresh as a side effect. Thanks for all the input, yes the rocker corners were filled. Made a flex hose adapter to my shop vac and was able to get all that stuff out. Eventually I'll be cutting and replacing that anyway :/

I'm going through and scrubbing all the surfaces. The interior is completely out of the car and the floors have been replaced. The smell seems to be the strongest in areas where the nests were. The main nests that i found were in the passenger side dog leg corner down in the rocker panels, the HVAC air system was pretty well packed with random mess, The glove box was full, under the passenger seat, behind the plastic interior tail light panel. i did the floors on the car recently so one area doesn't smell... now that i think of it i haven't taken off the passenger door panel yet maybe there is another nest there...

So I am working on a 240z I pulled out of a horse barn. It's been there for 8 years and mice have lived in it for most of that time. I have removed at least a half a dozen of carcasses and the smell is real! I have been cleaning with different degreasers and used products like odor-ban to try to get rid of the smell. The smell still lingers in the car. Any suggestions?

Would be great to see comparison dyno sheet. Do you have any sheets available from before you switched? The nice thing about EFI is that you can optimize AFR over the whole RPM range. Tuning is much easier also due to just changing some digits in the computer vs. swapping out jets and such. I agree with the statement above, the Stock N42 manifold is far from optimized, and will not flow nearly as much as your Tripple carb setup. The ideal way to go would be ITB like the ones from Jenvey. I would expect the Carb setup to have less torque down low but more power up top where as the stock manifold to be great until about 4k rpm and then start dropping off. Just in terms of open area at full throttle if you are running a 60mm TB compared to 6*40mm TB that's a 62% reduction in area...

I have one out of a 01/70 series 1. they are different, right?

Guys need to cut a new hole in my firewall because I replaced the sheetmatel around it. Would like to use stock grommets so I want to go back with the same size. The car is a 10/71 240z. If someone could measure it for me I would greatly appreciate it. It's the main harness pass through between the interior and engine bay, that goes right above the passenger side frame rail.

Hi Curtis, Indeed good to see other Michiganders with z cars! There is a club with quite a few s30s. And they have a decent size show at the automotive hall of fame in Dearborn coming up in August 18th. https://www.facebook.com/groups/GreatLakesZClub/ The guy was just selling the seats because he got new ones. I am going to use the seats for a couple of years but eventually I will restore the stock ones.

Both floors are in, backed up by bad dog frame rails. I added some seat mounts from prospect-d and and then coated the interior with RuStBullet

I do not want to weld in, i think bolt in is more than sufficient to hold the battery and easy to remove if i decide to relocate battery to the rear later on. I welded new sheetmetal in on the firewall and wheel well. Now just trying to figure out how to hold the battery. You are absolutely correct that if you put stainless against mild steel there is potential for galvanic corrosion to occur. I plan to coat the contact surfaces of the stainless and the wheel well will be painted. I can also add a non-conductive washer between the stainless and the fastener. The potential for battery acid to get between the layers exist in any given configuration. Actually if there is an acid leak into this area. having the ability to remove the tray will be greatly beneficial for cleaning the area. If you are using the factory configuration there is no way to get the acid that gets between the layers out. Galvanic corrosion can occur between any two conductive materials. So if you have any aluminum, copper, stainless, or carbon fibre fastened anywhere to your chassis, beware! The corrosion occurs slowly and the fastener usually acts as the sacrificial cathode. Either way thanks for the input, i just ordered the cheaper version. I will post pictures once installed.

Looks like Lambda = 0.9 so AFR = 13.23 (assuming stoich=14.7)