MatMan

I tried looking at the time I posted, but the Craigslist ad had since been removed. It looked like a home made jobbie, but I think someone with fab skills would be able to make it look better. The vents were at the flatter part of the fender, just behind the wheel wells, on top.

I found a custom (for lack of a better word) 280 for sale on craigslist where the seller fabbed an extra pair of 280 hood louvres into the tops of both fenders, maybe you can look into that...?

Did you soak your carbs in carb cleaner to clean them? There are rubber pieces in the SUs that will deteriorate when immersed in carb cleaner. It's best to just spray some on and wipe off soon.

That monstrosity is in PLACERVILLE? I lived there for 1 1/2 years, and I live 20 miles away now, I have NEVER seen that ugly POS. WOW!!!

I like to follow this page, it has proved well for me. http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=5

Why not just install hydraulic suspension? I have seen '62 Impalas up about 30 inches from the ground to frame!!! Then you have the option of lifting one, two or even 3 corners at the flip of a switch! Heck, if you need to change a tire, activate the 3 good corners and lift that puppy!

I'll throw in my 2 cents... I would get the air dam. The sheetmetal makes the car look like a steelhead trout. I agree, that thing is going to be a MONSTER when it gets released from prison.

I haven't heard that one, but I do know the vehicle industry is making cars harder to work on (ie all the electronics and diagnostics) so the average shade tree mechanic is going the way of points and bias-ply tires.

The V6 part was NOT obvious. There is about, oh, 1500 hours of reading material all wrapped up in one website here. If you look hard enough, you will find what you are looking for.

As Pop N Wood stated, the floor prep is the key. There are other factors to consider before purchasing one floor sealer over another: what is the vapor pressure (VP) eminating from your slab? Do you want the "finished look" or is grey concrete acceptable to you? Regarding the first question, is there a vapor barrier under your slab? Do you live in a wet environment (ie, is the water table high)? If so, you may want to look into a product called Ardex, which is a ~1/4" - 1/2" slurry coat of self-levelling super hard concrete, usually guaranteed to hold up to any and all abuse you can throw at it. (Most architects in CA spec Ardex by name for remodelling large slab buildings such as grocery stores when the VP through the orignal slab is above 10-13 PSI, before laying VCT flooring) Which leads to the second question: Ardex by itself is durable, but do you want to go the extra mile ($$$) and spring for an epoxy finish over it? There is also a "diamond coat" clear sealer/hardener one can buy to make the concrete EXTREMELY tough.

Maybe a bad air flow meter? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=79852 Man, there seems to be a lot of this problem lately.

might try this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109201&highlight=temp+sensor or search for "Won't rev" or try this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=79852

Hey, Jon, try this place: http://www.pointe-products.com/

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

When you mouse over "important notes" it reads, on a bright yellow background, "for offroad use only."

I put it in the fuel tank as perscribed, and proceded to run through 2 weeks of changing fuel filters (napa, 3.99) and fighting the stumbling and stalling. As was said before, Plugs Fouled at every start up. Went through 4 sets of plugs before I got the idea to wire-brush/B12 them. Before starting the resto I cleaned the tank with MEK, twice, and changed all the soft lines. All the stuff I got with the Seafoam was in the HARD LINES!!! Runs like a champ now, after resetting the carbs and floats, and swapping out the fuel pump. Now if I can just fix the alternator problem...

I am not sure how a wrist pin would not encounter shear as a function of the downforce placed upon it by the piston during the power stroke, as well as the upward thrust placed upon it by the connecting rod on the power/exhaust strokes. This site doesn't mention shear, but is an excellent write-up on the alloy you wish to use. http://www.key-to-metals.com/Article86.htm This one's pretty good for steels: http://www.crucibleservice.com/eselector/general/generalpart4.html Surprisingly to me, this steel is touted as an excellent substrate for the TiAlV coating for corrosion resistance.

Mostly because of a mass savings. Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't believe connecting rods have a shear force applied to them, mostly axial forces. Besides, it seems everyone's on a Titanium kick these days, even with hammers (which is really not a good idea because of the tendency of Ti to spall). As for the hearesay comment, I was taught in Metallurgy that Ti is a soft metal on it's own, that's why it is normally alloyed with Vanadium and Aluminum. Sure it's strength (tensile) to weight is good, but it's shear strength is not in the same class as high speed steels.

Have you tried Ventura County Auto Parts in Santa Paula? 805 933 8280

Does Ti have the same shear properties as steel? IIRC, Ti is actually a "softer" metal than most low carbon, high speed steels. I undertand the nitriding process, that would make the pin more wear resistant, but I am not sure it would have a great affect on the shear properties.

I just took all the A/C out of my 240. It was a self-contained, or separate unit. It's not difficult at all and will shed you about 30 lbs. Unbolt the bracket that the compressor is bolted to (connected to the block); undo the fan belt; remove the hoses and canister; remove the heat exchanger in front of the radiator and the condenser under the dash; and remove the fan/power switch under the steering wheel. You may wish to plug the holes in the firewall where the hoses ran, as well.

I read an article a few years back that detailed a yellow Tri-Point Engineering RX-7, tri rotor, tri-turbo. 555BHP! IIRC They tested it at bonneville salt flats, got to something like 185 MPH, and started to lift the front end off the deck! The aerodynamics of the hood acted like a wing! They ended up having something like 215 lbs of ballast in order to keep the wheels on the ground! I do hope an update is forthcoming!

I like how many colors your car has been painted. I would think that so many coats would do a better job at rust protection.

I bought an 81 AND an 82 N/A ZXs for $375. For parts. The 81 was run into a ditch and bent the frame, but the motor RUNS- $100. If you are patient and do your homework, you can find goood deals. [edit] these were from different sellers. Anyone need parts?