MatMan

Ummm I don't see any motor. Does anyone else see a motor?

WOW, what good info! I have an 81 and 82 ZX parts cars I was planning on using for drivetrain parts. That's a breath of fresh air to find that I CAN, in fact, use the half-shafts. Not that I really needed, them. I have two 2'X2 1/2' wood crates of half shafts, if anyone is interested. All I need now is the R200 mustache bar....

When the parts get wet, the dissimilar metals begin a galvanic reaction with each other, essentially a low-voltage battery, and the metals will exchange electrons, eventually degrading the material. This is the reason why you need to isolate ferrous and non ferrous-materials, no matter what the application.

What were you doing in Roseville? That's a terrible place to speed now, especially with the freeway work around Douglas Blvd. I have been ticketed in Malibu, supposedly driving 65 in a 45. Go to court, fight it, it's a good bet the issuing officer will not show, if he does, plead that you haven't had a ticket in over 10 yrs. (if it's true)...little fine, traffic/driving school, it's all good.

That's pretty impressive, but some of those stunts (double 180s, 4-car 780, and tandem up on two side wheels) were done with the cars' frames connected.

That's all a bit too rich for my blood.

I wonder if he owns the Matrix trinity?

When I bought all my tons of parts, i found a complete steering u-joint that had been torch-cut off the steering rod! (I also found a set of springs that had been torch-cut and rewelded together with electrical tape for a cover!!!)

If it is indeed electrical, you may have a cracked insulator in one or more spark plugs, shorting to the block... But your diagnosis sounds more to me like your fuel filter may be clogged...

Uhh, yeah... any pics yet, Mike?

Here Comes Trouble, are you a writer? That was reminiscent of the last page stories of Outdoor Life Magazine my mom used to read to us kids! NICE.

LOL, I thought that was a typo for dynamite! Why on earth would you want to blow up your car???

Yes, thehelix. Thank you. If I remember correctly, the thrust bearings were giving up before the ball bearings and their races.

Most of the energy in this system is held in the fuel, not the air. I am afraid you have is bass ackwards. Heat is just one form of energy. It's not the heat energy that is being converted. It's the chemical energy. You said yourself that the heat energy was caused by the compression of air, not from the heat of the turbo... Only one part is true. Heat will cause a change in volume in an ideal gas, with pressure and the amount of gas molecules being constant. It is the pressure differential between the exhaust strokes on all cylinders pushing the exhaust gasses to the ambient air pressure outside that drives the turbo. How quaint. I don't thik I should have to post my resume in order for my point to be made.

All I can do is shake my head. In layman's terms, the change in internal energy is equal to the change in temperature, minus the change in work done by the system At constant temperature, there is no energy differential, and there is no work. There is energy in heat, but you cannot harness it unless you can change the temperature.

Imagine an axle like that of a 1 ton truck. The axle system is basically a tube within a tube. One end is driven by the differential, the other drives the tire, and by extension, the ground. There are bearings at the hub which allow the axle to spin. If you had a straight axle, and tried to apply power to it, eventually it would slide away from the differential through the housing tube, and out into the street. At the hub, there is also a collar, which impedes the axle from slipping out. This collar is basically a change in outer dimention of the axle. The same is true on a turbo, between the exhaust fan and the intake fan there is an axle which rotates within a tube. The air hitting those fans creates a lateral load, or as I called it, creep. Imagine a propeller, when you spin it, it wants to move laterally, depending on which way the propeller forced the air. That lateral force, coupled with the 2 spinning masses (one on either end of the turbo axle) impart a lateral load (creep) on the axle, causing the collar bearing grief.

Yes, it doesn't matter physically where the turbo is located, or where the compressor is located. My point was this: you will get higher efficiency, from any motor, with the greatest difference in air temperature before compared with after. ie. if your intake air was, say, 280 degrees, and your exhaust temp was 600, you would not have as much thermal efficiency as if your intake temp was 100. The greater the difference in temperature = greater thermal efficiency. You do not want high air temperatures on the intake side of the motor, only on the exhaust. You will never be able to use the evergy available in the hot exhaust gasses, because you have already used the energy in the process of changing the temperature in the combustion chamber, exchanging the energy of combustion (chemical) to rotational (mechanical) energy. I know, "the energy of the hot gasses is spinning the turbo." NO. The pressure differential between the exhaust strokes in the combustion chambers and the ambient air pressure outside the motor is causing the turbo to spin. The heat is inconsequencial and due to the rapid expansion (oxidation of the fuel) of gasses and friction.

Yes, I believe your supplier. But, with turbos, you win some, you lose some. When I was working at AlliedSignal/Garrett 6 years ago, they were doing research on air bearings, have they come out with those yet? I have seen deisel applications of Garretts lasting as much as 144K miles, and some gas applications as little as 6K. It's all in how you drive, and how lucky you are to not get an intermetallic inclusion on one of the vanes.

True, making compressed air mechanically does introduce more heat into the system than the radiant or convected heat from the exhaust side of the turbo. Where the heat comes from isn't the issue, I think, as much as how to get rid of it, because of the efficiency/work problems associated with the high temperatures.

In High school I had a 66 3/4 ton Ford with a 390. I had a 2.5" manifolds and 3" pipes with glasspacks. What a sweet, smooth and remakably quiet (at idle) sounding tone! After about 6 monthe of nothing but tearing up the streets, I had to replace the glasspacks... tee hee.

One thing you may wish to look into, is soluble oil. I had a '66 3/4 ton Ford with a 390 someone had put about 2 quarts of that stuff in the radiator. I guess they were trying for the water wetter effect. Anyway, I had a bunch of brownish green gook in my radiator water. I thought it was a blown head, but not with the pull that motor had. my 0.02

Hey, Ed260Z, Make sure you submerge the tank in water and rinse a few times before introducing the flame!

BTW, YAY, I broke 20 posts!!