Lunar240z

wow! that looks awesome!, i never would have thought that chicken wire could be used with fg.

even if i doesn't kill you, I wouldnt want to be breathing that. when i was working in this sheetmetal shop, and one of the other guys was using the plasma on some galvanized it made me feel like total crap, coughing/dry throat, headachy... and this was a big shop, so i wasnt even breathing in a lot of the fumes. either way, good luck on the floor.

so would a coilpack without an internal ignitor work with edis?

got it on its 35th birth month in nov.05, been in pieces ever since.

Is the owner of this car a member on this site? or does anyone know who's this is? it looks like hes got a pneumatic hood strut, and i'd like to find out a little bit more about that.

search bro. this has been covered, some hints... arp, rx7 iirc, and nissan quest.

oooh! you should make a mold from that!

thanks. Im using/going to use carbon fiber autometers, in carbon fiber cups. 6 2 1/16" are going to be in the center console, 3 on top of 3. and the 5" speedo/tach are going to be in the normal spot above the steering wheel. i have to be inventive with the speedo cup because they dont make a gauge cup for it yet. they're all going to be half sticking out like the boost gauge. i get foam in the contour of the dash and push the cup into it, and trace the hole it makes, then i put that on the dash. my first one turned out ok, hopefully all the others follow suit.

tada! no hands holding up the wastegate anymore. i know it looks far but i saw a lot of pictures in maximum boost with really long wastegate primaries? [maybe] [ the tube going into the wastegate from the header, so i figured id be allright.

did a big portion of my dash today the whole thing is going to be brushed, and either the welds smoothed or i'll go over them with the pulser on to make them look nicer. and this is something else i just started, an elise style rear diffuser, im not really expecting it to be effective, its more for looks, and my rear section was kinda wrinkly.

FINISHED THE SIDE PORTIONS! the whole thing is going to be brushed, and either the welds smoothed or i'll go over them with the pulser on to make them look nicer. and this is something else i just started, an elise style rear diffuser, im not really expecting it to be effective, its more for looks, and my rear section was kinda wrinkly.

who said aluminum dashes had to have a square face? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116823&highlight=aluminum+dash

i think im confusing mas with zfiberglass, i found them in that same link http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23482 i mean their imsa square flares, sorry for the mix up

i really like the 940z flares as well as the MAS box flares...but i dont have that kind of money to be spending on flares.

Now I don't have to get a CF hood to be cool!

haha. some updates on that actually... i drilled the hole for the wastegate in the collector, and the manifold did a partial self destruct, so now i've got it almost all back together, and I'm going to start on the wastegate tube shortly. Im going to attempt setting up backpurging, but i'm also loking into getting some solar flux.

aww shucks. finally bought more aluminum..man this stuff is expensive.i'm going to work on it again this weekend and post updates.

when i took mine apart i noticed that there were 4 mounting holes at the corners that could be used attach a custom panel.

where did you buy the hall sensor and magnets?

i was thinking about this again, and i'm probably going to make the bracket soon so i made up a drawing of what my sensor would probably end up looking like, any thoughts or suggestions? i also talked to a autometer tech at a hotrod show and he said that the VSS needs multiple signals per revolution, i forget how many now that it's been so long, so i'll have to find out again. [cherry brand hall sensors, ive been told have a threaded body.] another option would be to try to use the stock VR sensor with the toothed wheel thats in there. but my car is nowhere close to running so this is pretty much all speculation at this point.

well i asked Alex of Vilidini Motorsports and he told me that the oilpan actually is supposed to be level, and the engine is supposed to be tilted over a little bit, just like an rb26dett. I have since started remaking the engine mount, i'll probably be done with it this weekend.

what would happen if you actually had an sr20?

I measured to make sure they were in the same place [lengthwise along the car and then used a straightedge to make sure they were parallel to each other

correct, they are technotoytuning. and the cool thing is he can supply the alternate spacers you need if you use mr2 struts in the front for sectioned strut housings

its bored out 1mm to 2045cc/2.05L not exactly 2.1 but... The VE head is nissan's version of "vtec" which is a variable valve lift head the VE head only came in fwd and only in japan and requires modification to the VVL oil feed line which can be seen here http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=162336 if oyu if you want to put the head on anything but a VE block the oil pickup is in the middle of the pan and the pan slants down towards the oil drain... would that be the only reason?