Twoeightnine

Maybe someone welded the diff or it has a problem. An open diff would spin one tire and you would be hard pressed to "kick it" sideways......

Hence the "Grumpy" part. Sounds like you have the dream part down. On your terms would BE a dream! You are a lucky man.......

"Anti-Freeze Tester - Used to invoke the phrase "What the hell is this?" Zackly! I always drained a gallon of water out, and dumped a gallon of anti-freez in! What the hell is this turkey basting looking thing with the little balls in it for!! Good replies gents!

You sir....are correct. Im not much of an engine engineer. Thats why I went with a "package" cam and top end bolt on deal. Tricks of the trade is where it's at however! Engine shipping can be a little costly. Any thoughts on that one? It is a dream, and it does involve cash. See...on topic!

Well there you go. I was waiting for that. Now for a little topic navigation. The topic is..Building A Dream Or Wasting Your Cash. Sometimes I feel like it's both. In the end I will get what I want. Im too damn stubborn not to. But I will quickly tell you that if wasn't for HybridZ forum, I would have wasted a ton by now and maybe even given up. Back to work now. I need more cash! Thanks ya'll.....

Since we all use alot of tools, I thought that I would share this very important Tool Use Definition Guide. Tell me it isn't true!! Wait untill you get to the bottom, Im still looking for mine! Feel free to bring up some of your own.... DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh sh--...." ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood- blisters. The most often the tool used by all women. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or  ½ socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel debris. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. Women excel at using this tool. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Yep. A few years back I watched someone heat an auto plate untill it was almost smoking and slid the sticker off. I was perplexed at first untill I saw them later rubber cement it to another car. Its a ploy to avoid being pulled over. Once pulled over however, it's OVER. Funny how some folks will work really hard to avoid the real easy way out. Buy your own!! Lapsing insurance is the biggy. No insurance, no sticker.

Do we have an update Gents?

I recently had a head gasket replaced on my 240SX. When I went to pick up the head I looked the block over for any cracks. Looked OK to me. Sent the head to the shop where it was skimmed to ensure that it was true. Had it pressure tested and valves checked. Had the engine reassembled with all new gaskets top and bottom. Ran like a top. Nice twin black stripes on the pavement when I test drove it. Made it about 50 miles and plow!! Out went the gasket again!! The shop says it's probably the block! WTF! She's parked now. Im thinking of getting a JDM motor and calling it good. Sound about right?

Yes. What I was trying to get out of Doc was this. He stated that he wanted to do a Ford small block to see what "he" could get out of it if it was built to the hilt. I told him that I would be interested in purchasing it or financing the build. 12 K was what he came up with. My question is...what monies would it take to build a Chevy small block that would match the Ford build with respect to horsepower. I expect it to be less but was wondering. I built an all "Brock" FSB for 3,450 including the machine work. And that is everything from carb to oil pump. Now mind you it's a streetable configuration but is way far from mild. At least what I consider mild. 12K is not too much for a "premium" build. But is it streetable? That was my other question.

Now look what you did Mike. You pooped on the thread. Anyhow. Doc to repeat. How much would it cost to do a small block Chevy motor to match the 12K Ford motor? (QUOTE)But for the purpose of this thread and general disscussion, What would it take to get matching torque and H/P numbers with our target chevy block? Im guessing less but, Im just wondering. Is the 12K Ford motor streetable?

12K does not sound too unreasonable for a upper food chain build. But for the purpose of this thread and general disscussion, What would it take to get matching torque and H/P numbers with our target chevy block? Oh by the way Mike....you said "stroke it".

Got my ticket in hand. Was hoping that you had some tricks up your sleeve concerning a factory block. I'll just play with the "Brock" motor untill I cash in this ticket then. Keep me in mind if you go to the "F" side.

One of these days Im going to do a Chebby engine!! There, were even!! Seriously, I have had many a 350 and still own in a Jimmy, with the Chebby tree fitty. Cant kill it. The truck is lifted with 33s, four wheel drive. Has headers and a new carb only. It's always in four whell drive as it works basicly on the ranch. I mean you can not kill this beast. and I give er hell!! Repeat...mild build chebby tree fitty and put your foot in it! No need to make the deal complicated. You will have plenty of power. Go racing....... In road racing it's not all about the motor. If you are generating decent power to weight, it's the driver. Thats the most important consideration, among important considerations.

OK My .02. If you are going to rip up the track, considering how light the Z is, drop a mild build Chebby tree fitty. You will fly down the track and you wont be able to break that motor. Get er done!!! Hey Doc. When you get to that point. Call me. If the numbers are right, and it can be driven on the street, Id consider buying/financing it. Now....back to the Chebby talk. My bad.

I knew that was comming.

Hey Mark. You have a PM. Sorry it took so long to get back with you. Work, work, work......

Technically it runs. Bran new motor, it had better run! But its not in. Hell the car gets more and more OFF of it everyday! Working on the coilovers right now. Will clean up the underbelly before they and the new diff go in. Going back together would nice!! Had the car two years. been working on it one. Cant wait for some better weather. I even installed a gas heater in the garage. It only slightly improved my motivation. It's getting there.

I would love to have one. I think the z looks good as a convertable. If I do another Z, I will highly consider it. I like the idea about the roll bar loops as well.

Yeah. Probably worth it. My problem is that I would tear the thing apart anyhow. Does have a few nice starter parts. More stuff there than his asking price.

One can make no less than 840.00 per week to 999.00 per week or even more if the "agent" chooses to trans act more than once a week. Most will not as it draws even more attention. Banks are HOT after irregular transactions as the Federal Government is in high gear to catch launderers and the use bank records to to do so. The banks wind up loosing money and in many cases are fined if the do not show due diligence. The Bank teller is the first line of defence. In the past a teller could not report private transaction unless it was 10,000.00 or more. Launderers use "mules" to accept their out of country checks for 9999.00 or less. Once cashed the "mule" takes the 10% and money orders or even cash ships back the rest. Now days the teller is obligated to report ANY suspicious transaction and all transactions over 10,000 dollars Additionally, now days there is a lot of emphasis on stopping middle east terriorist money laundering in the United States. The Patriot Act allows the Gov even more visability to transactions deamed less than normal. Guess who gets busted first...the U.S resident. Not worth 999.00 a week just to wind up some dudes girlfriend..........

This is not a scam. I repeat, this is not a scam. But it is illegal. Highly so. It is called money laundering. It is a federal crime. Turn around and walk away. Do not even return theses inquires. Have a nice day....

Bingo!! Two years ago I had pain develop in my right thigh above the knee through the hip and around the front groin area. Aggravated the hell out of me. No matter what I did or how I was posistioned, it hurt like hell. It was a deep pain, not in the bone, not in the skin but in the muscle. It was very strange. After two months with no change I was getting worried. If I had to guess, at that time, I was thinking blood flow problems. It was like my leg was dying. Well my lower back is not the best and every year and a half it will have a blow out. At this time I could feel the vertebrae bout to let go so bitching the whole way about getting old sucks type stuff, went to my Chiropractor. He did the yank and crank, pop and snap, herk -n- jerk thing. He measured my legs and asked if it had ever been reported to me that my legs were of unequal length. I said no. He started measuring my hips and such. Next thing I knew he had my right leg and was bracing himself for would have looked like a tug of war contest. He said "I want you to relax every muscle in your body". "I am going to count to three and give to a gental tug". "OK, One...... Then at one he yanked my leg and I thought I was going to pass out. I felt every joint from my knee to my neck. I had to lay there for a moment to get my sight back. When I stood up my back pain was gone. But guess what, so was my killer leg groin pain thing. I hadn't even mentioned it to him before. I did after I noticed it was gone. he said the my hip bone was cocked and one vertebrae was misaligned. He also stated that nerves in the hip joint can cause the pain if the joint pinches the nerves. Sound close? Do you have anything to lose?

Good morning Doc. Gots a hangover? Nice fishing partner! Congrats on making another year!!

That plug plyer is going to be a bitch to get around the door and up in the wheel well! Looks like it would be for production work. The copper backup is for real and would help a bunch. Forgot that one when I was doing mine. It only takes a second, literally, to fill these holes. no warpage here. If one was to lay down a half inch long five second bead, you would be risking warpage. Lot of good ideads here so lets put them together, shall we. Sand area to be spot filled. Sand down the backside of a penny. Pick up some assorted magnets from the hobby store. Countersink the out side of the hole but not too much. Test weld some scrap sheet metal and adjust welder as required. Install and secure, with magnets, the penny over the back of the hole. Starting at the edge of the hole, zag across the hole. About 1 sec. Check it, if it needs some more, wait untill its cool and pop it again. Grind smooth.The countersink will ensure a positive bond. Test it, poke it, tap it. Smile!