Gareth. J.

Just be aware MCA have had issues with shocks leaking gas, even on struts that sat unused!

Super quiet in operation, in terms of noise its no louder than the torsen I replaced and no clunking like other clutch LSDs I've had. No break in needed. The $ for the diff oil is expensive also!

Check the harness plugs under the dash and in the engine bay (there's a single plug under the dash near the fire wall penetration, large gauge wire white with red trace). I had a very similar issue with mine but got to it before it smoked. It was melting due to poor contact, this created more resistance and then pulled more current until the plug melted completely with part of the wire insulation was damaged also. Amp meter in the positive means something is pulling current/power, like lights on high beam, thermo fans etc. Mine used to flick intermittently and stay in the positive without any lights or fans running.

Are they FIA compliant or any other regulated testing? I'd want to know they were tested and certified in some way.

Mach OP-034 in my 240z

I ground down an old oil pump spindle for my recent build. I filled the oil pump before installing but I forgot to fill the oil filter, no big deal as it wasn't cranking. I then used a 1/4 socket on the end of a cordless drill in place of the dizzy and it primed in no time. A little crude I know but it did the job for me.

I have one from my LD28 but have never checked it properly on the car, It has the same external appearance as any L series gear reduction starter I have seen. Is there anyway to tell the power rating (Kw) on them?

Why don't you email Mori san at Kameari? I've done that with the Kameari items I have purchased. He's very willing to help

Does anyone know the valving specs for these Bilstein 34-050224 shown above? I'm also keen to hear people's thoughts on these adjustable ones from Kameari...

I figured the same thing, I was expecting high temps with the half fill but it hasn't happened... yet. I have Kameari oil temp, water temp and oil pressure gauges. So far on the street, hwy running and blasts through the hills running a 4.37diff, 0.833 5th gear, with 7k shifts the oil temp is steady as a rock at 82deg in 35deg ambient temps. No idea how that compares to a stock non filled block as the gauges were installed when the 3.1 half fill was dropped in. I'll definitely have a temp controlled cooler before I get back to the track. Track days are a whole other world of hurt.

I used 'hardblok' in my F54 3.1L engine for extra piece of mind, sonic tests showed my wall thickness was fine. Filled to the bottom of the water pump inlet, no temp issues at all with an LD28 water pump.

Very interesting info about the LD block wall thickness! I threw my block out without even checking it after reading about the small bores being unable to bored to 89mm Would be keen to see a build thread on your particular engine combo speedtripper.

For the fuel tee's could you use 'JB Weld' to permanently seal them into the carb bodies? Great progress, keep going!

Carb spacing looks good, will the sealant on the fuel tee's last? A fuel leak above the headers would be bad news. I made the manifold flange from 12mm ally plate to match the thickness of my stainless headers flange. It secures the same way as the factory setup. If you have trouble with different thickness flanges can you weld on extra strips of metal where the manifold nuts and washers need to go?

Are the fuel 'T' pieces the black plastic ones at he bottom of the carbs? I know Keihin stock different widths to suit different carb spacings perhaps Mikuni are the same? If not I'd look at switching each pair around and try fitting a fuel elbow on each carb, it will eliminate the risk of fuel leaks as the T pieces are only sealed with O rings..... Ask me how I know! Ha. They look in good condition, do they have accelerator pumps?