Nigel

I never noticed the on-line instructions before... http://www.zraceprod...all_manuals.php They look pretty comprehensive to me, and the pictures are easy to follow if you're reasonably familiar with the front end of a Z. Doesn't look like it would take much to install even without the templates if you have some fabrication experience. Nigel '73 240ZT

I was considering going with a 245 front instead of 255, but the ~1/8" difference in radius and ~3/8" difference in width didn't seem significant. Why do you wish you went with 245 front? Nigel

The sample of the instruction book shown on http://www.zraceproducts.com look to well done from this picture: Are those the same instructions you guys got? BTW, zraceproducts sells that kit on ebay for $137.00 http://http://cgi.ebay.ca/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Gas-Shock-Hood-Assembly-Kit-/160144376249?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25495941b9#ht_3761wt_939 Nigel '73 240ZT

Yesterday, I finally got some tires installed on the RotaRBR’s I bought last year. The tires are Hankook Ventus V12 Evo’s. I’m storing them in my girlfriends parents garage for a few days, and when I was dropping them off, I noticed that one wheel has what seems to me like an excessive amount of weight on it. I was in a hurry, and I didn’t count the total number, but what I noticed is that there were two strips side by side stacked two deep! I’m guessing it was at least 5oz. I’ve never seen that much weight in one spot on a rim before, and these are brand new rims and tires. They were balanced on a Hunter road force balancer. But perhaps it’s nothing to worry about? Does anybody here have any experience to know what’s considered “acceptableâ€and what is too much? Nigel '73 240ZT

Impact gun, or if you don't care about the old pulley, then just clamp it in a vice. Nigel '73 240ZT

Did you add any friction modifier to the diff fluid? Even if diff fluid instructions say that it's not necessary, add it anyway. Nigel '73 240ZT

Guess who I got that method from? Many thanks, BTW!!! It saved me a lot of headaches back when I was new to tuning. Nigel '73 240ZT

Zero advance? Tell your friend to keep his opinions to himself! That's nuts! Try 20 deg initial at idle. That's about what the factory timing was set to for the L28 turbos. That's what mine runs at. It doesn't like much less. From there, the general rule of thumb is to ramp it up to ~38 deg at 3000 RPM and then pull out a degree for every lb of boost, which would put you back at 20 deg total at 18psi. Keep in mind, that's just a rule of thumb. You may need more or less timing than that, and a dyno is really the best way to figure it out. I'm running ~22 deg total advance at 15psi with no detonation. Remember, these engines only have 7.4:1 compression. Nigel '73 240ZT

Do you have a link to a manual? Nigel '73 240ZT

6'7", 230lbs, 38in inseam. It blows my mind that I can fit beautifully into a tiny, 40 year old Z, but couldn't drive a 370 to save my life, even though from the outside it dwarfs the 240 by comparison. In fact, the only other Z that I'm reasonably comfortable in are the Z31's. Interestingly, I can't even drive a 280Z. The revised door handle doesn't leave enough room between it and the steering wheel for my knee when I try to operate the clutch. Of course, the door handle could always be removed. A few tips for more room in a 240... 1. Get a smaller steering wheel. 2. The seats are held in place by 4 bolts that go down through the rails on the seats, into platforms on the floor of the car. Each bolt has 2 plastic spacers that raise the seat off the platforms. Remove one spacer from both sides on the rear mounting bolts. This will tilt the rear of the lower seat cushion down, and slide you further back in the seat, plus give more thigh support. Removing all of the rear spacers would be even more helpful, except the seat back will be reclined too much, and the tilt mechanism doesn't have enough adjustment forward to compensate. I haven't taken the time to figure out how to remedy that yet. Nigel '73 240ZT

BTW, just in case you weren't sure PVC = Positive Crank Case Ventilation. Google it, learn about it. As for the tube, it's an interference fit. Just lightly tap it back into the block with a hammer (not like you're trying to put a nail into a board) enough so that you can't pull it out by hand. Make sure it's pointing in the right direction first though. Nigel '73 240ZT

Just checking, because if you follow some people's advice and gut the stock proportioning valve when you install the adjustable valve, you'll end up connecting the front and rear brake circuits together. You have to remove the stock valve entirely on '73 and later Z's. Nigel

I see you've done a rear disk conversion. You didn't happen to install an adjustable proportioning valve did you? Nigel '73 240ZT

BTW, where did you get that 30501 1C104 part? I don't see it listed for the S130 or S30 cars, and there are 6 part numbers alone for the S30 cars. I'm not saying it won't work, but I'm just curious what it comes off of. Nigel

"7" is the key # that you then look up on the list below. There are 4 part numbers listed for item 7: 30501 N1600 - 2 seater manual 30501 K0401 - 2 seater manual turbo 30501 K0400 - 2+2 seater manual 30501 K0401 - 2+2 seater manual replacing K0400, and now the same as the 2 seater manual turbo. I also looked up the 240SX collar, and it also has a 30501 K0401 part number. So I gather 30501 K0401 is the part you want? Nigel

35mm sounds right for the 2+2/Turbo clutch. I know I measured mine once, but I forgot to write down the number. All I have is a picture comparing it to a 240SX collar (they are the same). Probably not much help, but here it is... Nigel '73 240ZT

I already mentioned that you can do it this way, but it can be a headache. For one thing, you need a decent sized floor jack, with a large enough cup. Even then, trying to keep 75lbs of transmission balanced, and prevent it from rotating while you try to wrestle it and the floor jack together in and out of position can get pretty frustrating, not to mention dangerous, particularly if your new to this or trying to do it alone. For $80 (they want $180 for the exact same thing up here, and our dollar is even at parity now!), those trans jacks are worth every penny if you ever plan on R&Ring a transmission or diff more than once (they're also handy for R&Ring exhausts). The trans is held secure in a cradle that can be adjusted for angle, the scissor action makes fine height adjustments a piece of cake, and the casters allow you to easily move the transmission in any direction. It makes the whole process so much safer and easier. Unless you're really strapped for cash or never plan to do this again, why not get the right tool for the job? At least see if you can rent one.

Find a bolt or rod that will slide freely into the pilot bearing, but still be a close fit, then pack the bearing with grease, and finally, tap the bolt into the pilot bearing. The bearing should slide out with a few taps. It's a pretty cool trick. I've R&R'd my transmission many times in my garage without a lift. The trick is to get the car high enough. Once I get the car up, I use a scissor jack with a block of wood on it under the oil pan so that the engine angle can be adjusted (you'll have to put a cinder block or something under the scissor jack to get it high enough. Never use cinder block for supporting the weight of the car though). That makes lining up the engine and trans easier. I've used a hydraulic floor jack to get the trans in and out. I added a couple of angle brackets to a flat floor jack cradle to keep the transmission stable. I've done it with a regular cup cradle on the floor jack as well, but it can get pretty dicey. I don't recommend it. Scissor jacks for transmission and differentials, like the one below are awesome. I've borrowed one from a friend a few times, and it makes R&R so much easier. I'm not sure where you can get them in the States. Harbor Freight probably. Nigel '73 240ZT

Not true? How dare you contradict me! Seriously, I've been on this site for 9 years, and have less than 450 posts, so I obviously don't post something unless I feel it's worthwhile. On some occasions, when you torque the flange back up, the diff won't turn smoothly afterwards. I've had this happen to me personally, and it really left me scratching my head and wondering what the hell was going on. I conferred with a professional mechanic who's been servicing Datsun's for 30 years, and he confirmed that this issue pops up from time to time. Obviously it's not supposed to do that. I never said anything about crush sleeves. It should be as simple as you suggest, but sometimes it's not, and I was trying to give Jacob a heads up. It doesn't necessarily mean the diff is toast either. My mechanic friend advised me that they have been able to return these differentials to years of successful service by tightening the nut by feel, so to speak, and not strictly by the torque value. Not ideal, but it apparently works. Personally, I chose to get another diff. Nigel '73 240ZT

Depending on how much wear the diff has in it, you might find that even if you torque to minimum spec, that the diff will seize up and be difficult to turn. So, tighten the nut a bit at a time and keep checking to see if it's rotating freely. Nigel '73 240ZT

So, it's been 6 months since I first posted this. Has anybody else actually tried one yet? Nigel '73 240ZT

LHD = Left Hand Drive There's a fair bit of info on installing the wing mirrors. It took me less than a minute to find that picture I posted. Nigel

Nigel '73 240ZT

Hey Jesse! Download the factory service manual for the '73 Z here (you may have to wait an hour because availability randomly changes ever hour). http://http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ All the connectors are identified in the electrical chapter. Are you going to be at the swap meet in April? Nigel '73 240ZT

This topic was just discussed a few weeks ago... http://http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88404-tires-user-input-wanted/ Here's an article I linked to in that thread from Car and Driver: http://http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/09q2/tire_test_nine_affordable_summer_tires_take_on_the_michelin_ps2-comparison_tests Nigel '73 240ZT