OlderThanMe

just because I lived in japan for a year and a half does not mean I understand this: 駐車場でドラックマシーンが爆走しました。 迫力満点！危険度満点！最高でした。 昔、ストリートゼロヨンを避けながら見てた思い出がよみがえりました。 古き良き時代の話です。 or this ドラックマシーン！デモラン both of those were around pics of that car and a z32 that was tubbed out and burning out...

tour the MIT museum...they have all sorts of this kind of stuff.

that green one with the 2.0 motor is a 432...

one is not an s30 but I could not resist...it is the proper funny car...

here are some more...

only pics from japan...I like the red/black one... I guess we can do any model Z...just 69-83...how about that...

oh my...

I bet that was fun to weld...

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/ag-23scraps.html wow http://www.ebaumsworld.com/ag-corysyellowchair.html interesting... http://www.ebaumsworld.com/ag-homagetotinguely.html ok..... http://www.ebaumsworld.com/ag-machinewithwishbone.html this one is great...

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/ag-anotherhousefly.html this thing is insane!!! http://www.ebaumsworld.com/ag-childwatchingball.html this one is even better!!!

I was thinking about that...I am probably going to drive it to my friend's house 20 miles away to weld it up with no fender on ther right. Just have to protect the windshield. And those aren't fog lamps...they are full on driving lamps be cause my regular headlights kept getting dimmer and dimmer...now I am going to have 4 headlights with fresh wires up front. I am probably going to move the headlights into the radiator opening and use filled in headlight buckets.

so what tires you gonna run? I could see that beast on 52" michelins... that thing is going to be sweet when (if) it gets paint. I say leave the body like it is...or paint it olive drab...

ok...I was thinking that was weird that you would not use water on the aluminium...lol the only problem is that it will rust...

fenders off the problem

haha...it works every time...I was so suprised when I used the ss rod and it eleminated any porosity problem that there was. I would not make long welds with it though. Just to fix small problems.

I believe that would be tampa.

umm...that is disturbing...using a dead body as a weapon...

+1 hope for the best...

plus it has a copper coating. That is why it is copper colored...When I was doing TIG welding on 1/4 inch steel I took a piece of 1/4X 8"X 3' piece of steel and got one of the classes 15lb black and decker cast aluminium hand grinders with a 6" wire wheel and spent half an hour cleaning this piece of steel until it was like almost like a mirror. You want to clean the steel past the mill-scale and then it is very easy to weld on. Clean metal is key. especially on aluminium... just get the proper filler rod and you will think you are a pro welder...

yee-ha...finally they finished him off...I agree with you Z-dreamer...he was probably incinerated though...two 500lb bombs...on one house...

I would get some quality TIG wire or use some cut off MIG wire. the RG60 has different alloys in it that are made to burn off with an oxyfuel flame...you definitely don't want a weld on a LCA to come apart on a mountain road with no railing...not good. just go to airgas or some other welding supply store and pick up a couple pounds of TIG wire. I think it is like $5-6 a pound but may be more. here is a trick that my welding instructor told me: if you get some porosity on steel then re go over it with the TIG and add just a little stainless filler rod. It eleminates the porosity. I just used regular 304 rod to clear out the porosity.

You don't think I look under my hood every day??? think several times a day!!! lol seriuosly I did not know that the diff body was aluminium...I tought it was steel or something...it is just SOO heavy for aluminium...

yep...I am going to be doing my flinstones conversion soon and redoing the floorboards and that passenger side frewall... plus I have a friend that woorks at a steel supply place..a HUGE steel supply place...I can probably get his price for some steel.

I see that they used a rocker arm that wass longer on one side. Since that vehicle needs a lot of travel that will work. I am just thinking that for a car that is designed to drive on pavement the camber control is very important. I can see that car having negative camber at full droop and negative camber at comperssion. With the offset rocker arm and some rediculously high spring rate that would work fine but I would not design it that way. there just needs to be a way to keep camber the same through the entire range of travel.

well the strut is a suspension member so you would need something to act as an upper suspension member. If you cut off the strut tube and use a pushrod that goes to a rocker arm then as the suspension moves through its range of travel you will have dramatic changes in camber since the pushrod will change its angle the further it compresses the inboard suspension.