OlderThanMe

hmm... It looks as if he hasn't logged on in a coulpe of years... LOL

Myplasticegg: Air to air intercoolers are old passive technology... With an active intercooler you can greatly increase intercooling ability. I wasn't thinking of using water. There are plenty of other cooling liquids that chill way better than water. Even still there are ways to get the water below ambient. It just isn't a passive system anymore. The main reason I'm looking at an air/water intercooler is that I want to eleminate any turbo pressure loss. I don't want to run Co2... It would be bad to be on a road course somewhere hitting full boost and see the IAT's go up because you ran out of gas. Don't want to detonate an expensive turbo motor because of Co2 running out. Methanol or water injection is another thing. I'd probably end up using water injection because it is cheaper to refill and I'll be driving the car a good bit. I guess I'll have to do some more research on that subject. Tony: That is why I like the air/water intercoolers. if you hit high boost you don't leave a baking hot huge piece of aluminum up front that is trying to cool itself... The thremal properties of a good cooling liquid are great for peaks of high temperatures because temps gets equalized very quicky. One idea I had was to get Thermo-electric coolers from a small refridgerator and set them up in the cowl to chill the coolant.

That is a cool little hybrid. It also has the same big ol' eclipse seats that I have in my Z.

If you look carefully in the movie "the pursuit of happyness" when the guy loses his shoe in the road and runs across the street there is a late 260 or 280 behind him...

Here is the video: I know they are noisy but so is my motor...

The display will be mounted on the front face of the dash. It will put less heat and light into the display by not being in the sun all the time. These displays are pricey and I don't want to have to replace it down the road. Servos are mounted on a nice piece of 1/4" thick red oak. This will be covered in some sort of metal. One thought is to take a piece of aluminum or brass and have the guage faces just laser etched on to the face of the metal. There are also some other cool ideas that I have for the guage face. I need one more servo... Changed the layout a little more. I'm uploading a video of the servos in a test loop mode. It is cool that the display is still plenty bright even with a flash pic. The wood will be completely covered. It was just easier to mount all of the servos this way since we didn't have ant 1/4" aluminum.

The "Terrible Herbst" team has WAYYY to much money. I love their trophy truck(s)! I'd want to be friends with them!!!

I know if you get the VG33 motor people have put those into 510's. You can just get the cams for an early 300zx and they should go right in. Thus giving you a 3.3 liter sportscar engine. You could also do an aftermarket intake... I drive a frontier with the VG33 and it has torque right above idle. It can climb a good hill at 1000RPMs with only slight gas. Very torquey but it sorta runs out by 3500RPMs. I'm sure with Z31 stuff you could make one pretty quick.

Nissan was trying to cut costs by making one control arm instead of two different ones. Your control arms are fine. You will notice that the sway bar mounts are directly in the center of the thickness of the control arm. Remember that Zs were ECONOMY sportscars back in the day... no fancy suspension or anything.

Hey when you come over I'll show you what the rustoleum looks like... and maybe even how to do it!

Wow... and I was only kidding when I first said it was probably FWD... LOL!!!

It was an exageration... Having a bad rod/stroke ratio puts more force on the cylinder walls and thus wears them out over time. Plus piston failure is more common on a motor with a bad R/S ratio.

you know what I'm thinkin Boss!!!

Here is my Baby...Still a little rough around the edges.

Yup!! Lol!!!

I bet you that it is front wheel drive...

A stock L24 has a r/s ratio of 1.8:1 A stock L28 has a r/s ratio of 1.65:1 A L29/30/31 stroker motor usually has r/s of 1.6:1 I think as long as you aren't turboing it or doing crazy overbores then it should be OK for a street motor. I don't like the idea of spending all the money on something cool like that and then not being able to push crazy HP numbers or boost.

So why not just use the whole bottom end and just stick a Z or Maxima head on there? With that much stroke y'all are going to punch a hole through the side of the cylider wall with a piston. Even with the height of the LD28 block the rod/stroke ratio is close to 1.5:1!!! I think it would make a cool swap but the lack of height on a L28 block is going to kill longetivity of said motor.

I'd just buy the actual intercooler itself. The whole system is way too much $$$! This would be perfect for running an air conditioner through. I have some other ideas to get the intercooler temps below ambient. Ford Lightning trucks use the radiator fluid for their intercooler. You are NEVER going to get IAT's down below 120 degrees with that setup. Even if you run a second radiator it still isn't going to be that great. It is just a matter of getting the right coolant for the right price and I think you could have an intercooler that gets IAT's WAYYY down below 70 degrees and NOT be running a cooler full of ice.

pic of a possible layout. The black rectangle is for if we don't do a HUD setup with the display. We are still planning on doing the HUD though. It definitely needs a seperate piece of lexan to reflect the display. The stock windshield turns the display into a bananna roated at a 30 degree angle... I guess I'll have the seperate, jet fighter type HUD screen... I still have to convince dad WHY I need more than a 120mph spedometer... Speedo is probably going to be digital on the display to free up a servo for another engine gauge. Probably boost or AFR...

Blairjj: Look for the sticky "windtunnel test data" in this forum...

I have been looking at air-water intercoolers to put into my Z for my turbo motor. My Dad showed my this website: http://www.lindseyracing.com/ He found it on some of the 944turbo forums since that is what they normally work on at lindsey racing. This would drastically reduce any intercooler plumbing and eleminate any pressure drop because of extra tubing and intercooler. Here is a pic of the internal webbing and coolant passages: It has 37.15in^2 of surface area for every inch of the tubing on the inside. 445.8 square inches of surface area in a 12" long version! This is all packed in a 2.75" tube..

Dirt track!!!!! YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!

Phil has only had combos of L28 stuff...no SR20 stuff.

89mm piston in an F54 block!!!! That is running those cylinder walls terribly thin isn't it? I am guessing that you are using KA24 pistons? Just something to consider...