OlderThanMe

Tony_D: The mild steel would be easy to weld with standard weling wire...you could get some stainless wire and Tack it with a small MIG machine. Headers have been made with both kinds... The stainless NEEDS to be welded with less heat because you can overheat the material. This is PIPE which is measured by inner diameter. TUBE is measured by outside diameter. The stainless (like what hanson is using) would be better because of the lighter weight and the fact that it is stainless... How many 90* and 45* els did you buy Hanson? Also have you thought of cutting up a pipe reducer(s) to make a collector? also if you were using regular steel you could use this: and strip out the threads and weld it...

hanson, so is this what you are using?

The odorless paint thinner will work...but you DON'T want the paint to dry fast. You want it to have time to level out.

that is sweet!!! Your gramps should love it!!!

So what V8 engine was in that ZXTT car? I did not know Nissan had a V8 back then...

current photos would be sweet too! Was that the ZX that had the V8?

The car had not been run in a couple weeks...I guess.

I wish... the truck is not insured and only goes to shows and rarely is driven...arg. It sure sounds good though. His DD is a mustang GT and his newest project is a vega station wagon with a 302 in it...

I don't think paint bends as easy as lead...and it would get little cracks...

unscrew the little plastic things on top of the carbs and see if the little dipstick thing has any oil on it. If not then get some Marvel Mystery oil and fill it up... BTW do you have round top or flat top SUs?

I call it ...This is my buddies 2001 lightning pushing 12 PSI boost... he helped me get my broken off bolts out of my block today...Thanks Zack!!

Just use a flap disc on a grinder... I think the lead may possibly crack under the stresses of a strut tower...

Mull, May I redirect you to the updated, painted, Darius 240z?

Car paint was leaded until the 50's or something like that... then they found out that it was dangerous when cars cought fire...lol

another thing...don't try to drive the car daily and rebuild it at the same time...I wasted a bunch of money just keeping the car running while I tried to add some performance stuff (wheels, tires, brakes, suspension etc...).

sweet!!! great swap!

haha...I roll the car out on the ugly driveway to do most of my wetsanding... The bathroom is a little harder to clean though... When I was wetsanding in the garage I used some of those dark grey foam puzzle piece-ish garage floor mats and rolled the car onto them...that worked pretty good.

what if you took some 350Z turning signals turned sideways and integrated them into some 240Z FG bumpers...that would be cool.

Stoggs: the key is to do all the work yorself. You save a lot of money that way plus you will gain a bunch of tools that you will always have! I bought my 260Z the day before I turned 16 with my own $2k... Just try to find a good rust-free chassis or at least one that is in good condition. Getting a straight car would really get you far past a lot of work that also takes time and $$$$ to repair.

Funny...

I read that you should give them the oversize pistons and say: make these work...that way they can make sure the fit will be right. I think the same ranges just pus 1mm is right. BTW which machine shop are you using?

Black IF the bodywork is perfect! The lemans blue is a VERY close second!

darn...need better quality control..

Mamba: Well for the actual rustoleum you can get a gallon for $25-$28 depending on where you get it. Spend about $10 in 4" wide rollers with roller bucket thingy. About $15 in different sandpaper, about $5 in mineral spirits(not paint thinner!), and then get some rags made out of old T-shirts... Get an electric random orbital sander ($25?) to flatten any bumps and sand the paint a little bit. That is about all you need. KEEP IN MIND THAT RUSTOLEUM IS A LEADED PAINT!! When you pull it off to do a real paint job you NEED a full respirator!

Thanks Austin, I may be at Zdayz this year so I might be able to show off my cheapo $50 paint job. Hopefully this year it will look better than how my car looked last year(like straight out of a JY lol). This only has to last until I get out of college and can afford to buy the gear to do a real paint job (I am thinking a slightly red tinted black kind of color, maybe blackberry-ish?) ...going fast is a little more important right now than looking good. I spent way too much $$$$ on replacement junk that I won't be able to use on a FI motor the first year I had the car. BTW Autozone just got their first shipment of 1000 grit waterproof sandpaper!! I'm going to go pick some up!!! The roof is soo hard to wetsand so that is why I am doing it first. Joining finished paint and new paint is actually pretty easy compared to how I thought it was going to be. Maybe I'll finish wetsanding the roof tomorrow and start the last two coats. I am ready for this roof to be done! haha...I showed the car looking like this...lol half rattlecan flat black, half rustoleum...and no taillight covers...I did the clutch like 2 days before the show and installed the suspension the night before I had to leave...lol untuned illuminas were yelling UNDERSTEER during this pic...