OlderThanMe

My personal favorite off-the-shelf flare combo would be the rear 280YZ flares matched with the front VB flares Jay Hitchcock's car matched with these fronts modified to cover the front tires and a wider air dam: Mark Rolston's car Both of these cars are sweet but I think the combo would look incredible! What combos do y'all like on a Z?

I know that my solid rotor 4x4 calipers clear the center section by about 1/4" righrt near the bolt holes. The outer bell is 13.2" or 13.3" in diameter if that helps. You would have to get some low backspacing to get your brakes completely in there though. I think they could widen the larger section so you could fit your brakes in there. You could run a spacer but these aren't the world's straightest wheels so that would probably be a bad idea. The wheels are REALLY good but not perfect. For the price they are great! here is a pic of the larger bell...

haha yeah...whenever I make it to SEZ I'll leave flames down the dragstrip for ya...LOL

I started with paper and pencil listing what I needed wiring for. I got a piece of .045"X6"x18" aluminum and attached a bunch of fuse blocks to it and laid out my relays and a main power terminal that I had to isolate from the aluminum panel. The stock harness with all fuses and connectors weighs about 30 pounds!!! I am at least cutting that in HALF! I first did all the wiring for the panel and made it removable so that you can undo like 4 connectors and some bolts and it comes out. It all bolts to factory dash mounting holes. some pics: You can see the autozone fuse blocks along the top and the labled relays on the botom. That box way back there is a delay circuit that my Dad made to keep the electric fan running after you turn the car off. This is before everything was neatened up. If you want to spend the mega bucks you can get different color wires...I'm just going to label mine. This was before I blew up my stock ignition box and got the MSD replacement... It also makes it easy to wire the car if you have a custom dash like the one I made. This also gets your wires out of your passenger's foot area and makes your car look better by not having wires showing... I also relocated my ignition box to the engine bay so that I don't have to run even more wire...for...umm...weight savings. I am not finished yet... Still have to run wires for: electric fuel pump all rear lights radio? it's not much of a street car so maybe not... turn signals(hmm...I need a new switch) permanent switch panel (I have a dinky little temporary one made from a piece of scrap aluminum) provisions for aftermarket EFI when I convert from carbs also electronics for the smoke screen generator oil slick tire poppers propellor skis tank tracks

I would soo like to see a Z done like this sketch I made! That would be awesome. It is basically the stock body but from the top crease and down it would be stretched out 2.5"-3". Also its a 2 piece front end (top hood/tops of fenders and then sides/front) big BRE-ish spoiler but taller and laid back a bit. open front fenders

hahaha!!! I hope I never get there... At least you have a comment on almost every thread...lol

hmm...found this on the showcars bodyparts site...(which nobody should EVER buy from) This top one looks interesting and it should solve some aero problems.

woohoo!!! what a monster!!!

Well I am doing the reverse of this... My 260Z has L24 flattops raising the compression a bit so it is realy sensitive to the gas that it gets. I have my rear fuel pump hooked up to new wiring and a switch. I would drive the car all day when it was off and not really tell a difference. When I flip a switch though the car runs smoother and stronger. It is enough difference that my butt-dyno can tell. If you have run the fuel pump for testing and just ran a tube back into the tank you can see how MUCH fuel it can move. I was very suprised when I tested it and it SHOT gas!! I am going to remove my mechancal fuel pump and just run the electric because I think the mechanical one puts restriction on the system more tha it helps. With the car off and the electric pump running you can hear fuel shooting out the return line into the tank... Plus you can have an anti-theft with just the electric pump and a hidden switch hooked to ignition power.

L20A rods are 128mm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

You could just use stock pistons...you will have a 2.4 or 2.5 liter motor IIRC with that cam and block you would want to use the 1973 L24 connecting rods FYI...they are nice and long. With the L20A connecting rods your CR will be like 2:1...lol That motor combo should spin up nice with a 10-11 lb flywheel! All I can say is, Go for it!!!

I should be around 175 hp with my L26 before long... L26 bottom end Maxima N47 head L24 flattop pistons 10.25:1 CR roundtop SUs(eek! restrictive!) mystery header, 2.5" exhaust My L26 already had the 240Z flattop pistons in it so all I am doing is swapping the MN47 to hike the compression ratio. I am only doing this because I got that head for a steal($39!) and I already have everything else. I am still going to build a hot turbo motor down the road but this will have to do for now because it is what I have.

Mario!!! You MUST put a big red push/pull switch on your shifter for the SC bypass!!!

I think it will be another L series motor...but with another 2 cylinders added on...and an aluminum block

Well here is the color I am going to be using. The same color TimZ used on his valve cover. I think I am going to use a flap disc on a grinder and smooth out the block before powdecoating so it looks more even. Ernie: Thanks for your input! 2003z is going to help me out with this and he owns thepowdercoater.com but this will be his first block. I'm not too worried about chips...this isn't a show car at all. The engine will look good though. Cruez: Thanks for the outgassing info! I will keep that in consideration when prepping the block!

While 2003Z/Mike and I were at the JY pulling my MN47 head I had the idea... Would it be possible to powdercoat a whole engine block? From all practical reasons there seems like nothing that would keep you from doing it. Mike has a big enough oven to easily fit an L6 block. I think regular temp powdercoat would be fine for the <300 degrees of the engine block. I am going to get my engine hot tanked this week sometime and will be ready to put it back together and coated later this week or next week. I think a good thick coat of powder would be really good on my block as it is fairly easy to apply and there is a WIDE choice of colors available. Common sense says that this will work great but I just want to see what more informed common senses say... This thread talks about it and it seems like a good idea...

Austin has mentioned a RB swap before...That would sure be mean

Nice one Ron...That setup is pretty sweet. Thanks for the photo! It even looks OEM!

There was a discussion about using tripple SUs...search and you will find what you seek...

Sweetness!!! I should be doing that this weekend! Then I will join the club of setting up wipe patterns!

Well today I just got a Maxima N47 head with the 39cc-ish chambers and had some questions... Since it has an internally oiled cam what would I have to do to convert it to an externally oiled cam? I have an E88 sitting right there with an externally oiled cam and am wondering if I can just swap everything over to the MN47 and then have the cam towers line-bored straight? This head would give me about a 10.2:1 CR on my L26 with L24 flattops. If I could swap over the slightly larger L26 cam and tower/oiler bar I could get my car running in no time at all. I have 93 octane gas here so that is not a problem... I was running about 9.2:1 with the stock E88 and L24 flattop pistons but want a little more power...This doesn't have to hold together forever...just a year or so to have some fun on the weekends until I can get a turbo motor together. THANKS guys! BTW...this head has 201,000 miles on it!!! The cam is just about dead...

Investments... I scored a Maxima N47 today at the JY for $39...they sell for like $200

Bob_H: Just go out and buy a N/A Z32! that is much better than a first gen Z for a daily driver. Austin or Justin's car for $10k? :lmao: :lmao: I was going to get a Z32TT but I ended up getting my 2004 Frontier crewcab... very reliable and 21mpg plus I can haul Z engines! It's really comfortable with adjustable lumbar support, heating and A/C (my z has neither), windows that seal, seating for 4 people or 5 if you cram, and it has big tires wrapped around some nice teflon coated aluminum rims!

Well at 10.5:1 and 12 PSI I would expect the pistons to melt... that is a CR high enough for a hot N/A motor...much less adding boost. Even neutral pressure may be too much at that CR!