OlderThanMe

so those tires are just over 26"? I have 225/60r15 on 15X8 diamonds and I love the overall height of the tire(right at 26"). I'll just need more width for mine because of this little thing called...Torque. Zs look great with tires that fill the wheel wells. Briann510: how does that tire not rub the fender? super hard springs and struts?

Darius!!! Sweet!!!!!! what a drift!!! can't wait to see more pics!!!

Those evos are crazy...I saw one take off beside me and by the time he was 1000feet ahead of me there was a huge heat plume behind the car...insane!!! that car can launch!!! it looked maybe 1" lowered...and all blacked out...

Same as JMortensen...

Well I am thinking 3500 is a tad bit high for decent low end boost...my primary wil be set to about 10-12 PSI by 3200 or so and then the secondary will be set as high as I can tune...20-25ish PSI up near the redline... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111606 1: small turbo bypass 2&3 are just wastegates...

Well if you have a Z that is going to push 25+ PSI but you want it to have some boost earlier...I think it would work great. Like TimZ has a HUGE turbo on his car and makes huge power...but it does not really spool in the reguar driving RPMs... I am designing my CTS(consective turbo system) to spool early and make decent power but when you hit 3300-3500 at WOT it opens up and goes insane on the power...bypassing the smaller turbo. That is just my thinking so that you don't have to drive a slug around when you aren't in boost.

But there is a solution to the restriction problem...you just have to think outside the box...

search for consecutive turbochargers...I am going to be doing it... T3 or other small turbo and then HY35...you have to overcome the problem of the flow restriction of the smaller turbo with the wide RPM rang you will want. Diesels have a short power range so they don't have to worry about restriction much. With a 4k+ power range you will encounter a lot of restriction with the smaller turbo.

I would just love to have one of those valve covers...they probably pull in the $$$$s though.

check it out right now!! speed chanel!!! at least 3 Zs racing!

The benefit with making your brace into an X shape is that if it tries to bend it will push on the front of the unibody rather than just bending. it would triangulate the whole front end...triangles are good. Attached pic (japanese Z car) shows some triangualation of the front end. I imagine it is VERY rigid.

incredible!!! I wonder how their prices are?

Videos: how to build coilovers w/ illuminas Just after coilovers installed: [/url] Driving vid: another driving vid: silent driving vid looking from 944 turbo:

so it's used? what turbos were used with it before? that 3 bolt setup is weird...

arg...so are you reboring it way over? like 2mm? too bad your NM pistons won't work...

Here is the blog of the owner of the car This is a google translated page... The owner was talking something about an 89.25mm bore...WOW!! that makes really thin cylinder walls!! and yeah...that motor took quite a bit of work to get the custom L6 block poured and get the head custom made...

actually...Just talked to my dad about this thing... We replaced the fuel enrichment valve(for boost). Not the idle air control valve... I'll check that tomorrow morning. Thanks Prox...

map sensor? I think? It has a regular throttle body (not tbi) It had this problem before the powdercoating... The throttle is fine... There could be a leak somewhere after the turbo but I doubt it. I am thinking it is a vacuum leak somewhere. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

Pretty P90 and F54...mirror finish chambers... I want, I want, I want!!!

found while searching the web... http://prara.ld.infoseek.co.jp/3dcg/s30z/s30z.htm

Car: 1986 Porsche 944 Turbo Problem: idles at 2400 RPMs Well I spent most of the day today helping my dad put all the EFI stuff and intake back on the 944t. It had a problem of idling at 2000-2400ish RPMs and so we got a new idle control valve (old one was broken) and another part and put them on. After all that we fired the car back up after a month or so and it idled at 1200 for about 30 seconds and then it doubled that. This "idle control valve" has the hose (just installed a new ones today) from the wastegate connected to it, a hose from just before the turbo on the intake(vacuum side), and a hose after the turbo (pressure side) on the intake side connected to it. It also has a 2 wire connector attached to it. This piece was physically broken into like 12 pieces so it got replaced. The car still idles really high. One thing I noticed was that two of the connector seats were slightly cracked but not too bad. The car idled really smooth at 1200 at first for 30 seconds (cold weather idle plus it normally idles at 1000) and then it raised up to 2400!?!? This is getting really frustrating. Can anyone help me with this problem?

that's for sure...I am sanding every 2 coats or so. I still did not get anything done on my car because I got drafted to help try to get our Porsche 944 turbo running again. 4 hours of reassembly later and crank it up and it still idles at 2400rpms...ARG!!!

Well you know the SU manifold only flows like 2000% better than the EFI type manifolds...just weld some injector bungs on and you are ready to go... You could even mount a BOV on the balance tube... I am NOT going to use the better flowing SU manifolds I have and weld injector bungs on the bottom. That would just be dumb. And hanging some SU shells there would be even dumber...and then some fake fuel lines and heat shields so that you can't see the shiny fuel rail underneath. really dumb LOL