OlderThanMe

check the thread below this one...a whole writeup...

Plan on about 20 man-hours of final wet-sanding at least...I should get an orbital polisher wheel I guess...but that would not be cheap. Having friends over and feeding them pizza is much cheaper than an orbital polisher... cheap is the name of the game... And since I work at a pizza place I get it half price... This is what your rustoleum should look like before any finishing. This took a long time to figure out how to get it this smooth with the mixtures...

bschiltz: yeah...I stared having pain when I was 14(I think?) L5 and L6 got squeezed together when I fell and it HURT!!!!! I have been working on my back muscles and abs and it really is much better. Every once in a while I will feel it a tinge but nothing bad. I just keep working the muscles to help support my back.

Phil...YOU SOO ROCK!!!

What if we had a hybridZ online car show? Stuff like: best beater, best sleeper, most improved Z since last show, best paint, etc... Just something we could do that would be fun. You would have to "Enter" the show officially just like a regular show and take pics from certain angles etc...

It's like night and day. Granted the black is not polished here but it is WAY more black!!! Other in-process pics: BTW I had to put the polish can on a piece of folded sandpaper because it was sliding off because the paint was soo slick

I say practice with it a little bit. Rolling with the 4" roller is only 2000% easier than with the smaller roller. I am going to sand back over this part and add more layers of paint. There are only 2 layers where I polished it. Try to get it really even and that will save a LOT of time in sanding. Not quite half a layer...It depends on how much thinner you use I guess. You WILL know when you get through the milky layer. Te red was harder to see but with the black it is really easy to see. I think Big-Phil should sand and polish his sprayed-on rustoleum paintjob...It will look great!!!

Here you can see the milkyness I was talking about. I think it is the mineral spirits that came to the top. In process: I got to the limit of the 600 grit and the rough aluminum polish. Time for the 1200 grit and real paint polish!!!

well I finally figured out why my rustoleum looke milky when I was wetsanding...because it was. I tried polishing some of the red paint I had put on the car and was quite dissapointed. It looked very milky like it had a white film over it. Well I grabbed a little piece of 600 grit paper and just for fun started sanding on a part of my hood that I had painted black a long time ago. WEll I just kept sanding and it got more milky looking. I was like what the heck is going on?? I kept wet sanding it with the 600 grit and I broke through the milky layer and got into BLACK!!! I sanded a little section and the polished it with my aluminum polish. BOOM!!! I was soo pleased I went out and bought all new 4" wide high density foam rollers(I used 2" wide ones last time, bad idea.), $8 of gloss black, a few clear plastic cups for mixing paint, and I still had some left-over mineral spirits. I the second coat of black is drying on the roof overnight tonight and I'll sand tomorrow sometime and add another two coats. I'll add another coat after that for insurance and be into wetsanding the roof. For someone like me that has plenty of time and no money...this is the best $35-$40 paintjob out there!!! Well maybe $50 if you go through sandpaper quick... IF I make it to ZdayZ then I won't be laughed at when I say "I painted it with mailbox rustoleum"

BTW I'm doing the rustoleum again...I just polished up part of the power bulge on my hood and can you say.."Show quality shine!!!" It is looking SOO smooth. Once I polish it the rustoleum turns rock hard too. Just painted the roof gloss black and am prepping to finish sanding the whole car tomorrow morning. I bought new 4" rollers this time instead of 2" and it is MUCH better and more consistant. So far I am in $25 this time...I may need to buy another $8 of paint though.

I'll work on it...I have been having internet problems lately...

http://www.myspace.com/project_loudmouth_z

not myspace but... www.xanga.com/loudmouth_Z just got it started for a log on my Z. I'll get a myspace going sometime...

wow. Dude I am one of the young guys and I have had back pain in the past. When I was 15 I was inline skating in a park and went over a root under a path and fell right on my rear. Mind you I was like 14 at the time so I had never really had pain. Well they discovered that two of vy vertabrae were not completely bone and were still cartilage and had squished a little bit and I was in serious pain for over a week. Fortunately I have been careful since then and built up the muscles in my back so that it protects my spine from being injured if I fall down on my rear again. all that before I get my drivers lisence...That pain was soo bad I could not think or do anything. I was having back spazams and other nasty stuff lying in the ER. I have been mostly pain free in the last 5 years from building up muscle and not getting overweight which the doctor said would be a big no-no.

This is stretching it a little bit but I was a competetive fencer for 8-9 years. It is considered a martial art by some. I have been the national rolling points champion for my age category, state champion a few times and second in the southeast a few times.. I have a rating of B-2006. That is the second highest rating you can get and I got it this year. The highest is an "A" which is the level olympians are at. I started when I was 10 and I still do it but not very often. I just do it for fun now.

Yes the L26 cam will work in the L28. It is a LITTLE bigger than the other stock cams. Can't answer the question about the towers...you do need to have it externally oiled though. I don't know what a GRS30 is though? My 260 is a RLS30...and 280s were HLS30's I think...

wow!!! that car is soo impressive!!!

oh yeah...I didn't see that. Thanks!

maybe it could be setup sort of like this but thicker steel or stainless: with a valve on it like this: Just delete the motor and put an actuator. The electric motor would not work very well being constantly used. It would probably wear out pretty quickly. The butterfly valve could be of use though. You would want to build a metal seal so that when the wastegate was closed it would butt against a metal shelf and prevent it from leaking.

Obviously turbonetics does not make this wastegate any more...or they never produced it. Maybe a cast iron exhaust cutout could be used...

Well I was reading through Maximum boost for a second time and saw the Turbonetics wastegate that uses a throttle plate instead of a big valve (page 150). Obviously this could have big potential in high flow applications. If I needed to completely bypass a turbo (think sequential turbo setup) and don't want to spend a grand on a big enough wastegate to get the flow I needed this seems like it would be a good idea... I was also thinking that an exhaust brake from a big diesel truck could work for this application with a modified actuator/wastegate diaphragm to actuate it. It could be cheaper than a regular wastegatefor the flow I would need for the sequential turbo setup. I can scan the page for those that don't have the book.

Or you could build a tube frame and hang a carbon fiber body of a Z on it...not the cheapest way but it is the most effective.Just putting it out there. Plus you have the oportunity to do away with the struts an put whatever suspension you want in the car. I agree with Johnc on the driveline stuff...the L6 crank is a heavy beast!!!

well I am working again tonight so plan on another sketch coming up...late tonight or tomorrow. I have some more ideas.

He lined it up straight with his airdam...which was not straight...lol

zfiberglass.com is a US manufacturer that makes a decent G-nose. Or you could get a good one imported for $$$$!!