OlderThanMe

Maybe you should upload the picture somewhere like putfile.com or something. Hope that could help. just don't diss the forum...there are reasons you can only upload smaller pics...there are a couple thousand HybridZ members and everyone can't upload big pics all the time...

I've got 260z parts: perfect stock guages stock harness eagle star wheels w/tires L26 block great used headliner good black interior panels early 260Z bumpers/overriders/shock bumper mounts extra standard headlights Purolator 3-5 psi fuel pump decent front blue strut inserts and blown rears (yours FREEEEEE for pickup!!) and a few other things... What'cha got laying around not to be used?

summit carries QA1 springs just like you want for like $36 each. I used them...

nice!!! NASCAR fuel cell...that thing must have cost a bundle... looks like the car has been curbed from the underside of the passenger floorboard. My car has similar damage but is only bashed up about 1-1.5" That looks like a really bumpy cam too!!! Sweet setup you have there!!!

Wow!!! That motor is just about worth what you paid for the car!!!

That would be sweet!!! you rock metallicar!!!

what color is that?!?! Or what combo of colors! I want to do a lime green pinstripe with a little more neon color than that! Incredible!

I am thinking dead struts? is the suspension all stock?

yeah 2" is a little overkill...LOL

dude!!! At least your taillights were fine. Those 240 tails are getting expensive!!! I am wanting to swap my 260 taillights for the 240 ones and they aren't cheap!!!

AHH!!! http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=390&SBL=1 THEY ARE MAKING AUTOMOTIVE RATTLECAN PAINT NOW!!! AHHH!!!!

www.rustoleum.com has a list of all the colors. They have a nice ight blue but I can't remember the name right now. I was going to dothe gloss black/regal red and it would look good but I decided to go all black. My wheels are black and all of my interior is black. Some polished parts and I will change my accent color from red to Xbox neon green. That is what I am going to be painting my engine block and misc engine parts.

About 8-10 hours of drying time per coat. I do one coat in the morning and then one at night. Today I am wetsanding my roof with 400 grit to make it flat for another two coats at least before the final coat.

that is the right paint there 240zV8 I have mixed red and black and got different versions. It mixes just fine. mixed regal red and black. Center is just Regal red, and then the outer two are mixes with gloss black. *note L6 with carbon soot all over it from leaky exhaust gasket on the engine stand... it made a sort of a brown color. Safety red would have been better for making a darker red. very chocolatey. and some polished regal red

I really like the new forum. There is a setting somewhere that only lets you put 20 pictures in a post. Not really a big problem but just an observation...

driving pics... Those pics were from the "Tail of the Dragon" when I got back I pulled this out of the car: I had all of my brake lights go out, headlights got really dim, horn got more and more quiet, etc...you get the picture. New cutom harness board: harness in car before cleaning up and zip-tying everything: New wiring harness for the ignition New dash with the temporary switch panel.

zedean: it is the mineral spirits that are coming to to the top that make the milky substance. It is only a thin layer of the milky substance. You just have to deal with it as it is much easier to apply the paint when it is thinned down.

You can upload the video to www.youtube.com

I picked the name Loudmouth for whatever reason...I guess since it is the opposite of my real personality. Anyway... Specs: Early 74 260Z Suspension: 7" coilover collars and nuts from www.A1racing.com QA1 2.5"ID 225Lb/in. front 10" springs and 250Lb/in rear 10" springs from www.summitracing.com Stock length Tokico Illumina struts from "JDMWerks" on Evilbay polyurethane bushings from www.zcarparts.com stock sway bars coming soon: new ball joints, tie rod ends, camber plates, and real upper spring perches. Brakes: Toyota S12-8 calipers braided front lines crosdrilled/slotted rotors high performance shoes (all brake parts from MSA, ripoff!!) New 7/8 Master cylinder DOT4 brake fliud Wheels: Diamond Racing "PRO" series 15"X8" wheels wrapped in cheap 225/60R15 "Visa" tires. Driveline: 4 speed tranny all new universal joints SPEC 240mm 11LB flywheel SPEC 225mm Stage 2+ clutch with 700 miles on it(for sale?) bolt in axle R180 w/ 3.54 gears OLD engine: L26 block E88 head partially polished Mystery header Roundtop SUs mirror polished 83mm flattop pistons L28 crank and rods (stock) New engine: 1993 Infinity Q45 engine. VH45DE I'll be lowering compression to 8.5:1 from 10.5:1 with some forged slugs. I'll also go back through the engine with new bearings and check everything and make sure it is all in great condition. I bought my car on November 15, 2003 that I paid $2000 of my own hard earned cash for. (the day before I turned 16) 260Z produced in November of 1973. VIN RLS30-012743 easter egg under car, in November... the all powerful L26!!! Roundtop SUs and mystery header. It had individual round K&N air cleaners but they were long gone and so was the harware. Algae... december 05: ever have a problem with your horn not being loud enough? most of my coilover stuff. Great prices on the coilover collars from A1racing.com playing with rustoleum: first try. now... red rustoleum: right after I rolled the hood cool threads: rustoleum painting your car #1 I started rustoleum painting my car current rustoleum thread 225mm clutch and 240mm flywheel...kit assembled by rustang guys...and I gave them the part #s for 225mm everything... suspension ready for coilovers... how not to lower your Z... Struts ready to go after TIG welding the new collar perches on. ghetto top hats...lol "beauty shot"...FWIW

Nismo: yeah...looks like that person stopped at the 600 grit paper...not as flat as mine.. I used a flourscent lamp once and it helped a little. You don't want it to dry too fast or else you will spend more time sanding which is 9 bazillion times harder than rolling the paint on. I'll be working on painting my car some tomorrow. I'll probably go down to napa and get some good wetsanding paper since they are the only ones that carry good sand paper around me.

At my lowes they had flat black, satin black, gloss black, hunter green, safety yellow, safety red, regal red, royal blue, anodise bronse, grey, , gloss white, and something else. I would not use the "japan dry" as the paint needs time to flatten out. I used too much mineral spirits and it dried really quick but was really thin and chipped easily.

see!!!! I told you so!!! It's still too darn cold to paint...It is supposed to get to like 55 degrees tomorrow!!! I get back to work at 50 degrees!!!

yeah...like getting on a good diet...

in reverse order: 240zV8: I use about 20 percent mineral spirits. Just before it starts to drip off of a flat blade screwdriver (no paint sticks, they cost extra $!). I was using 10-15% before but now I use aprox. 20%. I'm not really sure but just do it until it "feels right" just like the mopar guy that started the rustoleum stuff said...Really hard to explain 2003z/Mike: Thanks! I'll have to find time to come over and pick it up! I'm working tomorrow and it is too cold to buff right now...I tried to wetsand this morning but wetsanding with 40* water in a spray bottle is not fun... PapaCreech/ron :yeah. I do most of my painting with the garage door cracked open. I have no clue about the air tools though...too poor. 240zV8: I get my rustoleum at Lowes. I ALMOST got hunter green. It is really close to british racing green from what I can tell. Nismo280zEd: interesting idea...but the rustoleum is proven now and I am going to stick with it. roninjiro: as soon as it gets above the teens at night I will get back to painting. Here the temperature was the coldest it has been in something like 3 years. Down in the mid teens. I think Big-Phil and I both used the stops-rust "professional" Chewievette: haha...I think 1,200 is enough...LOL 12,000 is more than they use for polishing windshields. It is already smooth as glass with the 600 but I have to do it light and that takes forever. The 1,200 will be really nice! Big-Phil: our cars are going to look awesome!!! it wil be fun to go to car shows and say "I painted the car with mailbox paint" :burnout: 240zV8: you got a spray gun..I can't believe it! I think the rollering would be nearly as fast as the spraying...

All I did was sand the paint and paint over it. I had stripped the roof and put thr red rustoleum over it before but the hood still had the original paint on it. It seems that the rustoleum sticks just as well to bare metal as it does to sanded paint. It sticks to anything!!! I only use the professional paint. I read on other sites that people were having problems with the regular rustoleum. I heard that with the spraying the mineral spirits evaporate before it hits the car so you have to use extra or something. Rolling the car is so easy I would not want the mess of spraying it. I can get it just as even as spraying with the roller with my bit of practice. plus your enviroment does not have to be 100% sanitary...just dry-sand the car outside...learned that the hard way and got yelled at for coating the garage in dust... oh well.