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seattlejester

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seattlejester last won the day on October 24

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  1. seattlejester

    Rubber Plugs

    I'd just replace it and cover it. My car was in active service for 30 odd years and the plugs were still alright. 30 years down the line you can cut out a patch from the mat and replace and recover. If you are going to close them, I'd suggest more permanence then fiber glass. Weld a patch and seam seal it. That will also tell you the health of the surrounding metal which if it is constantly wet might be worse off then you realize.
  2. Hmm I looked over my settings I have 2 strokes per cycle Simultaneous injection On Chickenman's recommendation I am running much less required fuel and gaining resolution on the fuel map so mine is 3.8 with 440cc injectors values go from 37-217 Your ignition and fuel maps have values on the y axis that are quite high, you won't exceed much above 100 fuel load without boost so you could gain some resolution there. Your ignition table looks almost inverted from mine, but that may just be a setting I realize I can't help you on the ignition or injector parameters as I am running 440cc supra injectors and COP with a HE sensor.
  3. Not sure on the numbers side, but it may be a matter of the dyno calibration, the numbers will differ so maybe not a good metric for me to fixate on. I think it is the bosch sensor that is the failure point in the innovate kit, the gauge really does not matter much as it just converts the value from the sensor, but if the dyno one was reading correctly maybe not as much of a concern. There is quite a bit of difference, the other tune has some strange values, and the ignition table almost seems like it is set for VVTI. I'll try real hard to remember to look at the files and compare when I get home.
  4. All the data points would be useful. Wideband make? Innovate is popular, but when they start to fail they can read off by as much as 1-2 points which would mess drastically with your tune. AEM seems less likely to fail in this manner. It is confounding as most dyno places run their own AFR sensor to eliminate this situation. Stock injectors? Does the JDM market use a different size? From what I see online the values kind of jump around as what is quoted, I'd have to look at the FSM to see if they list it, but if you are running a map based off of the USDM size and have the JDM injectors (for the 2jzgte, the JDM one is 440cc, the USDM is 550cc if memory serves), you would have problems. Make sure they are similar between markets before you adjust all your injector settings. If the tuner adjusted the timing map, did he find the timing offset on the crank? I had a strange case where I think the distributor was just at the limit of the adjustment so when you asked the ECU to adjust with RPM it would fall off the spark window and fail to fire the spark, made the car drive really poorly with heavy hesitation above low RPM. That kind of information can be useful for those reasons and others. The numbers actually seem pretty normal. I've seen less, although I'm only familiar with USDM motors for the most part. If it has 0 correction factor on a dynojet, that seems like really good numbers, 15-25 more would be really on the high end I have seen for NA, I want to say I saw a ITB ge motor make like 220 to the wheels with cams and all sorts of other goodies.
  5. seattlejester

    Rubber Plugs

    If memory serves, they were made to drain the excess paint/coating as cars back then were dipped in vats of paint? I suppose you could, but really water shouldn't be coming up through them unless they are torn or rotten. I would check door seals and the hatch seal and make sure the rain channels aren't blocked.
  6. Welcome to the forums. Given your lack of history some background posts basic information might be useful, like all the components in regards to the engine, such as 02 sensor, etc. I'd be curious to see the dyno chart, are you basing the missing power off of feel or numbers online? A stock 2jzge really doesn't put out much power and the feel is quite muted in the heavier chassis. I would offer some help, but my setup is turbo and low compression so most likely not that applicable. I'll take a look when I get home though. The dyno chart may be nice to see. Hesitation is most likely related to acceleration enrichment settings so those can be taken a look at as well. While there are a few of us running megasquirt, you may find more assistance at the megasquirt forums. If not we do pretty much have a resident tuner who you may be able to help you get a little bit more squared away @Chickenman
  7. seattlejester

    Hello from overseas

    Welcome to the forums! Both guys are on this forum, so you should be able to get a hold of them on their corresponding handles. I think CX has an option although the quality and fitment are variable from what I have read.
  8. seattlejester

    Carbon fiber side marker lamp lens aero replacements!

    That is clever, might have to try playing around with that idea!
  9. ^ You would have to shorten the splined shaft then correct? I guess you could just add a spacer between the bushing stop for the dash mount.
  10. I have the answer. Just need to think about it, give me a minute. Edit: So as others have suggested other methods such as a flat wheel or inverted wheel, thinner seat, reclined seat, would be much easier. Early Z assembly Column to firewall Internal shaft The outer tube Bottom seat of the outer tube Inner tube with spring. So the inner tube is a mostly hollow tube that ends right where the steering column attaches to the dash. The outer tube is two parts with one being the upper portion that attaches to the dash, and the lower portion that extends down and has a bellow that attaches to the firewall. Internally there is a shaft that comes through the fire wall. In case of an accident the bottom bellow crushes and the assembly slides away from the driver if that is the greater force or if from the other side the assembly is retained and the hollow tube slides up through the hollow portion. You would be compromising the safety by shortening the length it has to collapse. If that is not a concern then in theory you could section the inner and outer tube of the upper portion. The splines of the shaft only engage at the bottom of the upper inner tube so unless you wanted to also go about manipulating that it would be better to cut it out of the upper portion. The concern would be as you guessed, getting them welded inline perfectly. If they were off you would have binding issues come up as the top is retained by a sprung c-clip. You do have a bit of room with the springs on both sides, but you may feel some binding. You also would run into issues with retaining the steering lock and the blinker mount. Your steering wheel would also get quite close to the dash with limited room for the steering mounted accessories. With that said there are a bunch of ways to line up tubes and weld them straight, there is the budget, 90* channel with pipe clamps. Or more high tech methods like 3d printing a brace to line them up. I ended up cutting the bottom portion to fit a power steering setup. So my problem was welding the shaft, which now in retrospect I have very limited collapse as it widens at the bottom of the splines although I accounted for some of that by retaining the collapsible portion of the donor column as well. It took a few tries to get it to the point you couldn't feel bind, much more difficult, but possible. Long story short, you could do it. The question is the balance, as it was built around that setup to a point, once you move that you may need to modify the dash and the controls, and at that point you get into "making a new column is easier than trying to modify the old column."
  11. seattlejester

    Cant post in cars for sale

    Hmm forum issues at the moment, I'll notify and see if we can resolve, from what I see it looks like everyone has lost that tag. Edit: Correction, some people still definitely have the tag. I was using myself as a comparison, but that may not be a valid comparison.
  12. seattlejester

    350z internals into a 280zx

    The engine mounts are different between the S130 and the S30. At least to the block. I had to use the ones off of my S30 when I got the S130 motor. The lean was off, but the mounts from my recollection were in line. With a welder and angle grinder anything is technically possible. This also isn't a novel thing as it has been done before so leaning more towards a definite in the realm of possibility. Looks like "Z fever" has done one in the past. The concern will fall more towards feasibility. Swaps can be fairly involved so planning things out and asking specific questions will get you more mileage over a very broad general situation. Personally I would suggest looking for at least a newer transmission if this is a manual swap. The CD001 and CD008 leave a bit to be desired while the CD009 and later are regarded much more for durability and usability. Might almost consider a body swap as it would be easier than fabricating mounts and figuring out the rear subframe assuming the wheel base is similar.
  13. This is kind of off topic, jumping into a pretty specialized topic. I would suggest a new thread if you would like to display your findings for others to question and comment on regarding the S13/14 front end swap. My recollection was that you could buy almost everything from Silvermine and just invert the left and the right to get the steering assembly to work. I guess the only real new thing is the off the shelf solution from one manufacturer for the coilover, I think previously it required the use of a pillowball mount from T3 or GC or what not.
  14. Hello, Welcome to the forums. It seems like you posted to the FAQ section. I have gone ahead and moved your post to the general brake section. Please make sure to double check before posting to make sure it goes into a section where people can reply.
  15. You generally want as much crank contact as possible. Anything that experiences a lot of load you want more belt wrap as well. I'm running no AC and no power steering which in theory has about a quarter of pulley engagement with tension and it slips on cold starts as an example. Using the power steering pulley as an idler would be a valid option. Or building a bracket and moving the AC up to the power steering area would be another.
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