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seattlejester last won the day on February 7

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  1. The late model is the slightly confusing bit, I believe I used my 71 240z drive shaft, shortened on my 1979 ZX 5 speed, but I also flipped my differential mustache bar pushing my diff forward so I'm not sure how much shortening if any is required. The yoke just has to be engaged enough and past the seal. The dust shield usually comes past the exposed portion of the yoke to shield it from any debris so it doesn't tear up the seal if it moves in too far. In this orientation I'm not sure there is much concern for the yoke moving too much since the rear is mounted and the engine cants over left and right. I suppose there is some movement from accelerating and braking with worn stock mounts to account for. You are ahead of the curve, sometimes people forget, but there is always something new you can learn somewhere!
  2. The white smoke without water is an interesting thing, but only with the assumption there was sufficient time to burn off any water that may have leaked in. I've seen really lean cylinders put out white smoke, usually before something lets go. I think it best as others have said to run a compression test. Hydrocarbon test in the coolant or checking for water in the oil would also be two other alternatives or additional tests. Running rough as in loping idle, running and catching, sputtering, front firing? Any additional info will be helpful.
  3. As others said depends on your use. You could have 1000ft lbs, but if you have it set with boost by gear and traction control along with a clutch damper you could run that pretty long term. If on the other hand you are on the stock setup with a pucked clutch and drop the clutch on drag slicks something will give real soon. I was in the high 300, low 400 territory with CV axles on 280z stub axles. It handled some low speed clutch kicking on thinner tires, but I'd be hesitant to try anything that aggressive with slicks or much stickier without revisiting at least the stub axles. You're loading the discussion as well with talks of budget. R180 Subaru LSD with stub adapters and wolf creek axles can be anywhere from $500 to $2000 depending on how good you are at deal hunting that still leaves you with the stub axles and an R180, not to mention the axles and joints are not immune from failure. T3 setup also starts at $3400? but depending on the condition of the parts and options that can balloon out much more. If you plan on putting 450ft lbs to the ground repeatedly and with vigor the stock stub axles will not like it very much. The lighter options from the T3 will also struggle depending on how much weight/grip/activity it sees. Drifters break the R200 setup from the 240sx all the time at much lower levels. That moves you to either sourcing the R230 setup with TTT or going to the ford 9 inch setup. I wouldn't hesitate to run the stock setup for quite a while. The rear end is pretty easy to remove and the stock setup will put up with a good amount of use as long as you use the clutch on take off and keep shock loads down.
  4. It was, yes. Vibrant ultra quiet resonator will take care of certain frequencies, but really you just need to damp the amplitude with a muffler for pleasant in town cruising. If you want noise at WOT you can always go with an open waste gate dump.
  5. I mean if noise is your thing a dynomax bullet will get you there. Short of a valved muffler or electric cut out it is hard to get both. I had a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and an amazon baffled muffler and it was fairly benign, enough sound to drive without the tach, but not quite requiring earplugs.
  6. Welcome to the forums! Take a minute to peruse the rules and enjoy your stay.
  7. Welcome to the forum! The square ports are what I'm used to seeing over here, but understandably different on the other side of the world. I've been told removing them is quite tedious and not much benefit in the past. I'll let those more knowledgable chime in though.
  8. Heat is hard to beat, report back when you can. I know I've taken advantage of rent a lift type services to avoid getting scalded on the ground. You only need a very small amount of play to make a fairly audible clunk. Loose sway bar link can make a real click to clunk depending on how loose it is.
  9. Only forum I know of as well. Although I know other forums that have other interesting rule sets. Think of it as dressing up your post a bit if you need be. I'm sure this topic will be searched years down the line by future Z owners. The noise at a sudden lift makes me think mount related. The stock setup even new has weaknesses especially with a sudden load transfer. I will say sometimes noises carry. I had a rattle that I swear was my tool bag only to find it was a loose plastic trim reverberating. There are some intricacies involved with reassembling the rear wheel bearing, making sure the seal is seated and not interfering, the stub axle is fully in, the right spacer sleeve if you are mixing and matching. I also had to use an axle tool to get to the required 180ft lbs. If it was the rear driver I might think about bottoming out an axle, but the rear passenger should be ok. Might be worth getting the car in the air and pulling and pushing to see if anything has play. It seems like it will be something glaringly obvious, or intricate and internal.
  10. Just to clarify I don't mean a hard launch, I mean taking off from a stop. Like do you feel it immediately when you let off the clutch or is it as you get moving or is it as the suspension squats? I will second JHM my last clunk I had to deal with (other than VLSD axles) was from the RLCA bolts holding the inboard bushings. Found them several turns out after refreshing the suspension. Technoversion is where I and several of my friends picked up our RT style mount. Doesn't hurt that he's local. Clarification is never a bad thing. Remember, no one gets paid on a forum to answer questions. Sometimes it is hard to imagine the problem when some aspect is unclear. Heck sometimes I know I don't want to read a post if it is really long and poorly formatted. I know it can suck, I still have a warning from a capitalization failure, but take it as a chance to try a bit more, maybe consider it payment for the free advice. Speaking of...forum rule, make sure to capitalize.
  11. Welcome back to the fold! Depending on the severity of rust and how you feel about it will be how you go about it. Cutting out and replacing the far gone parts etc. I personally like a needle scaler for areas I am unsure about, if it punctures then it wasn't much good to begin with, if it doesn't it leaves a pretty clean finish to apply what you need to. I personally like JZ's, but nothing against the RB's. Looks like it will be pretty sweet.
  12. "Gland nuts are tight as can be" sounds a bit concerning. I do know some variants of the shocks required spacers that were not included with a definite feeling of bottoming out. I second the RT style mount, just from a design standpoint it is better and with the snubber on the bottom you don't get any diff movement to contribute to potential clunks. Can you get a clunk off of a launch? It sounds like you hit some of the most common areas, so short of something glaring it may be something minor like a loose control arm bolt (the big one on the front and back of the rear control arm like to come loose) or something more in detail like a loose stub axle nut.
  13. I know 1JZ's have problems with bleeding and overheating, but first time I've seen problems with a 2JZ. That is an endgame swap for many, so seeing it pulled is unfortunate, but you have to do what feels right. I've also never seen a motor doing a face plant either, lol.
  14. Nicely done! I remember gluing my gauge to the factory bezel, then moving onto the PVC couplers. The factory hoods are quite nice in the sun.
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