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seattlejester

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seattlejester last won the day on September 2 2020

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    Bellevue, WASHINGTON

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  1. You might want to take a look at the bores. I was planning on doing rings and bearings, but my higher milage motor had stock cross hatching. Much less of a concern at stockish power levels as well.
  2. Take with a grain of salt, but you can ball park it by counting the teeth from the missing tooth when the engine is at TDC. Keep in mind you need to check the cam since two crank rotations per crank. Count teeth offset and I think you offset by 1/2 of the teeth x 30*. With that said mine never matched up, I had to just set it based off the timing light, so would be best to get that working either by boosting the charge on the battery or getting a more sensitive trigger.
  3. Oh wow, that is super cool. Might have to start collecting parts for a future build! Given that the chassis is old I would not want to have someone remote a setup at a premium price like that unless I knew it was going to be 100% fit and they had a warranty and reputation to back it up. It could be a perfect fit on their car, but could be off on yours, and if they are making the holes extra large or slotted to compensate then the precision fit isn't really a selling point. The apex mount looks nice and with an adapter plate should be able to adjust, and with spacers als
  4. It would be the least amount of work from the looks of things, and in theory just an adapter or something to the w58 should work if the mounts are different. I would personally try and find a local welder. It would take a couple hours for you to clean the area and cut out the pieces with an angle grinder, but you could get the fitment how you want it and the material cost in overkill 3/16 to be safe should be about $20. Granted if you aren't comfortable or familiar the apex piece looks like it should work fine. I guess it depends on how much your time is worth. Curious
  5. Depending on the thickness of the baffle plates and the fact you can't really weld them all the way around without risking warping . If you don't have enough reliefs for the activity you can bend the baffle plate from sudden transitions if the route for the fuel is too convoluted. Based on your thickness and design you may need more yield routes i.e. holes or trap doors. It most likely will be overkill, I went to a couple events with a fuel cell that was just a box and with at least 25% fuel I didn't have any problems other than clogging a fuel filter a couple times. Although it is
  6. I think it depends on the activity you plan on running. Something interesting to note is that you have to find a decent yield route for the thickness of the material or else it can buckle or you may just have to add thicker material. Everything I've read say the foam will eventually deteriorate. Unless you build your tank for ease of service I don't think it would be a good idea. Good baffle system to stop big changes and maybe a trap door setup for low gas or a bucket would be preferential.
  7. FYI the CX engine mount kit for the 2jz was pretty bad if your going that route, it offsets the whole drivetrain a couple inches, had to make a lot of modification to center it. That trans mount looks kind of similar to what I ran, but I imagine it will hang a bit lower. I think I have my old R154 mount somewhere, granted I put my engine back to within touching distance of the firewall and it was for an earlier 71-72 240z. I know I mimicked the mounts off of someone with a 73, and he had to fully remove the trans mount subframe from his car to mount his transmission. This is of co
  8. What mounting points are you looking at, transmission crossmember? They are different on the mk3 supras which would lean to them not lining up great. If your post 73, it won't matter anyway if your going for the r154 it won't fit without removing the stock mounting points unless you plan on having the motor shoved forward and the trans hanging low. Might look at megajolt or something at that price range. Putting in a wheel to read and a sensor for pickup and you won't be limited to the stock 2jz coil architecture. I know I have the wiring most likely posted on here som
  9. The diffuser muffler did the trick for me. $30 or so on amazon, prime shipped. Made my car from unbearable, requires ear plugs, down to not that bad, almost wish it was slightly louder. Drone was intercepted with an ultra quiet and a cat, but honestly i think i could have done without the ultra quiet, just having the diffuser creates enough backflow to really quiet things down.
  10. My shifter had a reverse lockout as well, I think most do, but with a weighted shift knob to push down on the lock out spring and extra leverage, it actually isn't hard to push past. I never engaged reverse, but more than once I've felt the shifter slip under the bar.
  11. You can undo the short throw by using a longer shifter with an extension rod. I feel you on what you are saying some of the shifts with the CD009 are sketchy and hard to tell especially with a short shifter and a soft transmission/motor mount. My fear was always somehow missing 5th or 6th and slipping into reverse (forget which way it goes).
  12. Will say your transmission looks really nice and centered with what looks like the stock hole no less.
  13. Bruno makes a controller that is automatic based on I think a GPS module feeding the VSS, but he didn't recommend it for sport driving since the rate would get easier as you braked for a corner making it harder to modulate linearly. I have heard additional caster can help with centering somewhat. The failsafe setting on the toyota ones are constant on. At speed you hardly need any assist so that was unappealing to me personally.
  14. SC300 hose on the passenger side for sure, I think it needs a bit of a twist, so I cut it and used a coupler. Inlet was really simple I think it was an SC300 hose as well if not the stock datsun hose.
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