seattlejester

Oh I agree the benefit is minimal, and once you get past a certain RPM I imagine we become sloppy. Not much for power if I remember, but the benefit was fuel economy for timed sequential injection at very low load and engine speed (highway cruise at low engine speeds). I was trying to work this out with math. I think I got it, took me a couple hours and some reference finding. So the formula in long form is 1 / (Engine speed (R/M) * (1Min/60s) * (1000ms/s) * (2 revolutions / 4 stroke cycle) * (Angle valve is open/720 degrees) * (80/100 duty cycle limit) = ms injectors can fire (Volume of engine / number of cylinders) / (22.4L/Mol) * (28.966g/mol of air) / (14.7 air / fuel) * (cc of fuel / gram) = cc of fuel required cc of fuel / ms injectors can fire * (1000ms/s) * (60s/min) = injector size needed in cc/min At 6000 Rotations (of the crank) per Minute you get 100 Rotations per second. Or 10ms a rev. for 4 stroke cycle that gives you 20ms a 2 rev cycle. Using Timz's number of 40% (closer to 33% on stock cams 240*) valve open time you get 8ms of injection when the valve is open at 6000rpm. With that you get 16ms at 3000rpm, 32ms at 1500rpm and so on. Given you don't want to run a given injector more then 80% duty cycle you get. 5.5ms at 7000rpm 6.4ms at 6000rpm 12.8ms at 3000rpm 25.6ms at 1500rpm 51.2ms at 750rpm Using a 3L motor one cylinder in question pulls in and uses 0.5L per combustion cycle in one cylinder Using avogadro's law we get Volume of gas/(22.4L/Mole of gas) * (grams/mole of gas) = grams of gas Air has a g/mol of 28.966g/mol 0.5L/22.4l/mol * 28.966g/mol = 0.64656grams of o2. Using AFR 14.7 the fuel we would want would be 0.043984 grams of gasoline Density of gasoline is 737.22kg/m3 and 1kg/m3 is 0.001g/cm3 = 0.73722 g/cm3 0.043984 g / 0.73722g/cm3 = 0.0596618cc of gasoline 0.0596618cc of gasoline in 6.4 ms = 0.00932215cc/ms * 1000ms/s * 60s/min = 559.329cc/min Using that last line the required injector size using the following assumptions (3L, perfect volumetric efficiency, AFR 14.7, 40% valve open time, and a plethora of other assumptions) 7000RPM requires 651cc/min injectors at 80% duty cycle 6000RPM requires 560cc/min injectors at 80% duty cycle 3000RPM requires 280cc/min injectors at 80* duty cycle 1500RPM requires 140cc/min injectors at 80* duty cycle 750RPM requires 70cc/min injectors at 80* duty cycle Note fairly massive injectors that would be absolutely overkill unless you were running boost at which point the calculation has another factor that the volume of air increases at a factor of (absolute kpa/100) or ((psi of boost/14.7) + 1)

Bummer finding a turbo with a manual isn't the easiest thing. Let the search continue!

Page 81 to start for those interested. It seems it does have inputs for cam angle so it would indeed be trying to inject during timed valve events. Very much so a case of definitions.

Oh stop stop stop! Really good tip. Get some metal zip ties, from harbor freight or generic auto parts store and wrap the spring through that and the drain hole. Do both top and bottom on all 4 holes and you won't have to worry about settling the spring each time you jack up the car.

Very well done sir

I wonder Did you not get the little adapter piece? 240Z Rear Disk Brake Conversion Edit: oops you said extreme, the caliper and rotor look different to what I recalled. Some pictures might help to tell what you are exactly describing for this particular situation.

XTD is straight ebay if memory serves. That unit looks to be un unsprung clutch as well which is not going to let you get away with slipping the clutch as much as a pucked clutch will anyway. I imagine a ton of chatter and an on/off type engagement to boot. With that said some people do run it, given the price it is hard to not consider. Personally my thoughts on ebay parts are not to get parts that will leave you stranded or you would mind revisiting. If you have a nice garage with a lift or something and taking out the trans is pretty menial to you, then for that price if you get 5,000 miles out of it you would break even. For me having a clutch fall apart or a pressure plate break a fin is kind of a no go on my book.

To summarize: I think the sequential injection as it seems chickenman and I know it (for me learned through the megamanual and the megasquirt tuning academy videos), refers to the injection event happening only when the valves are open. Granted, I'm not sure how that would work at higher RPM when the duration would be so astronomically short, probably the reason why it starts to be less of an issue up top as it becomes more sloppy. The sequential injection as you may seem to know it refers to firing once over the full 4-stroke cycle. Technically that is sequential in that it follows a sequence firing each injector at TDC for each piston, but as you say can be indifferent to the valve timing. Direct injection as I know it requires the injector to actually be in the combustion chamber and requires the combustion chamber to have a certain swirl shape whether in the head or the piston since it does not benefit from the turbulent air coming in, so probably not in our discussion. As far as I recall using my version of tuner studio, without a cam sensor megasquirt won't extrapolate to even attempt sequential. It will do batch, and I want to say multi squirt/semi sequential (splits up the injector pulsewidth over multiple cycles, in theory catching more of the cylinders with the valves open). Although to your credit I don't recall having to put in the cam specs so I'm not sure how smart of a sequential setup it is. Based off of some theory study, not sure how useful it really is. Having the intake valve open during injection does allow for fuel to be more or less directly be placed in the cylinder, but requires the injector spray pattern to target the open intake port and one would have to imagine it is going to have minimal time to disperse as it goes in with the flow around the valve, the benefit would be that the cloud wouldn't have a chance to pool waiting for the valve to open. It must work because you can trim fuel at lower RPM using valve timed injection. However I recall someone machining grooves onto the back of the intake valves causing additional turbulence to help disperse the pooled fuel from a non valve timed injection setup and report also a noticeable amount of efficiency increase. I guess semantically TimZ is correct in his definition of sequential fuel injection, ours maybe would be better known as intake valve timed injection if we were trying to clear up nomenclature.

Regarding the transmission: I think out of the alternative swap options (not toyota) it is indeed easier, and pretty cheap compared to others. I'm curious about the S10 since everyone does the saturn/pontiac I imagine it would be cheaper/easier to find an S10. If you add up the conversion parts though I don't know if it would be cheaper then a good deal on a R154. You would have to ask joa for his total on that one. It would have the fix for the thrust washer which would be a bonus and better syncros if I'm not mistaken. Honestly there are more options then there have ever been now. They even have a new one where you use the bell housing off of the automatic transmission that comes on most 2jzgte you get from an importer and use an adapter plate just for the transmission so you don't have to buy a 1jz bell housing to adapt a CD009. They have a BMW one as well which could be viable too and BMW transmissions are very affordable. Or if you are at all realistic you can just run a W58 for quite a while. Just keep the power under 350hp/tq and try not to launch it, or run a relatively light pressure plate. I really don't think the transmission should hold you back. Chances are you are going to have to spend about the same regardless of engine choice, given the JZ is pretty much used in all aspects you cam even run other transmissions pretty easily using conversion/bellhousing parts (T56 etc) Regarding the swap: JZ swap makes sense to me, the layout, the parts availability, the aftermarket. To others the RB makes more sense, same brand, heritage, equally strong aftermarket, and a more common swap so easier in some regards. To others a V8 makes more sense, even better aftermarket, parts availability, low cost, high power, etc etc etc. Then there are those who like the L-series, and make awesome numbers with those. I think an L-series with Derek's head and a CD009 using Hoke's adapter going to wifrit's 8.8 rear end swap running EFI through ITB's would probably be my dream swap. Then there's the future, that inline 6 from the 335i is pretty potent, has a big after market, the only thing holding it back is it still is pretty pricey.

Votgland (sp?) If you plan on just evening out your suspension you can just run spring spacers to bring up the rear. Progressive springs at least the Tokico offering was pretty frowned upon due to poor design. Tokico's 280z offerings are linear and rode quite nicely, for a 240z they would need to be trimmed to account for the height differential though.

The conversion parts required didn't appeal to me. I think if the transmission goes it is going to get a driftmotion rebuild, that should pretty much make it problem free for any thing I would sanely throw at it. If I was thinking of going through the effort of converting a transmission, I would just go with a CD009, get a 6th gear out of the effort.

Assumption is that this is a 240z so it came with the R180. OBX is not that complicated. Order the kit, take it apart, inspect, order the shim kit from this forum, then reinstall. Your comparing an LSD to a differential to suspension. My assumption is also that you meant the Ford 8.8 diff with the IRS axles. If it is a 240z and you are pumping a healthy SBC worth of power at it, the stub axles seem to be a glaring weak point along with the halfshafts. Going R200 isn't going to solve either If you plan on keeping it, I would spend the effort to go with the 8.8 that way you know the rear end is going to handle whatever you throw at it. Granted not sure if you want to sink that much money into a flood recovery vehicle. Other choice is the TTT shortnose R200/R230 kit. That would come with new axles and such, but it does cost quite the pretty penny.

Goodness 2.5 years, I thought a couple weeks was a bit long. Jeez, there used to be a guy that sells hopped up LS motors here on a core basis, it would be a matter of a couple hours lol. The three machine shops here that I visited were all familiar with datsun motors. I think I saw a datsun motor at all three of the shops as well. Took them two days to do a head rebuild at one of them. Another shop I heard about, the guy had a whole book on the options and was talking to me about the different valve guide/seat material and size. Another shop had a race prepped datsun head (bigger valves, new cam, rockers, seats, and ported) sitting on the counter when I walked in. Depends on your market I guess.

One would assume so. Although I feel like that diagram should have spring rates accounted for to really be useful. If you have the top hat you can figure it out pretty straight forward. Lookup weigh distribution, find your vehicle weight, distribute the weigth then divide by 2 (number of wheels, front, back), then divide by the spring rate to find how many inches the spring will compress. Find the ride height that you plan on running and mark the height then leave yourself room to go lower or higher (leave more room to go lower if you plan on adding flares or something at some point) then weld on. 280z curb weight (2875) wiki Weight distribution (50/50) speedhunters Number of wheels (2) Weight being held up by spring ~715ish Subtract unsprung weight 50lbs? (keep in mind things like the rims, tires, calipers, rotors, etc are unsprung weight) Down to 650ish per corner Running a 225/275 setup you would expect the front to compress the spring 2.9 inches, and the rear to compress 2.64 inches. So with a 10 inch spring the front spring would take up ~7 inches of space and the rear would take up ~7.4 inches. Keep in mind additionally if you add helper springs they will have some height even when fully collapsed especially if you run the separating collar thingy. You can see that adding a taller spring would just affect the compressed spring height, so I would think that would work given our struts are pretty much vertical allowing this kind of crude math.

That's not a bad idea if someone needed just a smidgeon of room, but the picture looks a bit misleading the barbs are keeping the manifold tilted up, so it would need more clearance then cutting off the nipple would provide.

You and me both. Or at least I was (foreshadow...) Well some more work. I finished out the head stuff. Tightened the head studs to 80lbs as suggested and installed the 2.4mm cometic gasket dry as cometic suggested. Then tightened all the cam towers to 15lbs in multiple steps in multiple passes, then undid caps as you rotate the cam to make sure the caps are not tightened under load. Pretty impressive how much detail they go into to make sure you don't tighten the caps loosely. Threw in the greased cam seals and tightened down the first cam cap with FIPG. Then put on the cam pulley backing plate and the cam gears and tightened those to spec. Cleaned up some small parts Installed new o-rings for the water pipe, the head mating surface, and ordered a new thermostat. And bought the adapters to fit my oil feed and oil pressure sending unit. I have had this intellitronix gauge sitting in my glove box all wired up for the last 2 years ready to replace my mechanical gauge. I decided I had waited long enough for them to get off their butt and ship me the sending unit promised repeatedly over the last 2 years and badgered them until I finally got my sending unit. It isn't lost on my that it would have been much easier to spot the lack of oil pressure on the 7m had I had a nicely back lit LED gauge in the bright sun, but alas. Rant over. I ordered the intake manifold based off of Dexter72's build. Turns out I didn't account for my 15/16th master to have the bleed nipples on the opposite side. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu....... The space is about 11.5 inches from the head to the shock tower and the brake master and the manifold ends up being about 11 inches. The 0.5 inches would be enough except the casting for the bleed nipples and the nipples themselves take about an inch more. The manifold was about two inches too high from even lining up. I contemplated my options. Go with a different master cylinder, delete the brake booster, go with a different intake manifold. More or less the fact I didn't want to down grade, loose the booster, rebleed all my brakes, spend 600+ on a new manifold, or loose money on my manifold now, I decided to at least cut it up to mockup. Worst case scenario I have another set of runners so I can go to the cross over manifold or cut the runners and build my own down the road. So a couple key cuts and I could at least line up the manifold. Since the plan for this manifold was to go visit a welder to make it a bit shorter and tilt the throttle body flange in addition to changing the flange it won't end up costing me too much more. The only concern is that the divot will cause problems with the air flow, but given that this is a 5 inch tube and the input is 2.5 inch intercooler piping coming from a 2 inch turbine outlet, I think it should have more then enough room. Right now I'm working on making a throttle body flange. I decided to reuse my 7m throttle body. It is 2.5 ID which is the same size as my intercooler OD, Way shorter then the 2jz-ge throttle body, and I won't need to neck down as drastically compared to using the 80mm LS400 throttle body. Not sure if this is one of those things I'm building myself in to regretting down the road, but if so I'm doing it purposefully since I really want to revisit this manifold situation at some point. Also got most of my turbo goodies today. I held off on ordering the feed and drain kit hoping to get something pretty close to idea so I'll have to mock that stuff up this weekend hopefully.

Timz: I think you are talking about the semi sequential mode I think it is called in megasquirt? I have it enabled on my tune, basically fires the injectors once per crank rotation, so twice per 4 stroke cycle. I didn't think about that, but that would indeed allow one to run a lot more fuel at a lower duty cycle.

Thanks for that, that's pretty darn cool. Not too much load when it kicks on?

Hmm have a link to the electric vacuum pump? That sounds interesting. Is it on all the time? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2JZ-GE-FFIM-SUPRA-TURBO-SC300-IS300-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-/122006738231?hash=item1c682b1537:g:zqMAAOSwyjBW3FZZ&vxp=mtr Same unit as that one. Well after going back and forth I decided the benefit to the NPT would be that it would be self sealing in a way and that the benefit to a vacuum block type arrangement would be that you could use any threaded fitting like a banjo fitting. I ended up buying the 3 port fitting and found a spot to tap the back of the manifold for an independent brake booster fitting. I think it will end up looking pretty snazzy, if it ends up leaking horridly I'll have to just go with a block.

Yea it is kind of odd to think about, glad you got it. While yes it is possible for a computer to keep track of where you are just based off the crank assuming 720 for a full cycle. You have to remember if the car rolls or it forgets and looses track of the crank rotation once then you would be in a lot of trouble. There are some ways of doing it very simply with a sensor that reads the spoke/spaces between the cam gear/pulley, you just have to make one of them stick out more or less to give a variable signal for the sensor. Overall the benefits seemed pretty small. Would be pretty cool if you were controlling each individual cylinder on standalone, but other then that Tony's explanation to the fuel pool using aftermarket injectors and readings on the MS forums makes it seem fairly minimal benefit for the effort involved.

Crank rotates twice for every cam rotation. To get true sequential you need to know the timing of when the intake valves are open which is dependent on the cam. If you shut off your car or roll it the computer won't know which location your cam is in if it is in intake or exhaust so it needs a cam sensor.

Hmm. Hopefully it is just fouled plugs since the car was running before hand. Sometimes depending on your equilibrium it can take a while to kind of purge the lines of air and get the right fuel atmosphere to fire.

My intake manifold is going to the welders eventually. Especially now that it is cut up a bit. It is basically a large D tube manifold. Looks to be about 1/4 inch thick. While he has it should I just have him weld on a piece of aluminum bar stock with some holes drilled in it for some vacuum ports? I had 4 ports I used in my last manifold. 1 x 1/4 for map reference 1 x 1/4 for wastegate 1 x 1/4 for blow off valve 1 x 3/8 for brake booster Or should I just go with fittings like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-5183-Low-Profile-Aluminum-3-8-NPT-Vacuum-Fitting-Tee-/400886774503?hash=item5d56b6bae7:g:iC0AAOSw34FVCJ8a&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/PSS-1042-Stainless-Steel-Two-1-8-NPT-Ports-Low-Profile-Vacuum-Fitting-3-8-NPT-/230364313545?hash=item35a2c877c9:m:meLNZ7UEKw4ID0JyK7DU1DA&vxp=mtr Cost would be about the same really. The latter would be easier to do since i just drill and tap and install a fitting. The block would require me to cut a slot and make the piece and drill and tap those for each individual barb. I think those flat profile distribution fittings could look pretty snazzy. I'm not sure on this. Would love to hear your guys thoughts on one over the other or a third option if you have one.

Ah the line "I got a fuel pressure regulator from autozone" made me rethink what I read. Looks like you meant fuel pressure gauge not regulator. What does confirm power mean? That you ran a new line? Or just that you checked the power with the multimeter? Well seems like you may be on your way to figuring it out. Good on ya!

Oh I misread that. Did you plumb in two fuel pressure regulators now? You shouldn't have two pressure regulators in series if that is what you did. Short of an injector sticking open I don't think you would flood your engine. Granted that could explain where the fuel is going if the pump is running and you have no leaks and don't build any pressure.