seattlejester

Hmm I think I will have to disagree on a couple points. I am not sure about the RT mount, but at least the Technoversions style of it doesn't seem to lower the nose of the diff more then stock, I didn't encounter any twisting forces putting the differential in. Drive shaft flange was close to level or within the operating angle range for a driveshaft when I measured mine to get made, although I had my diff installed wrong previously the mounting planes weren't changed with the correction. With the mustache poly bushings it is pretty sensitive to deflections, I had to line up everything and jack it up slowly or it would bind. I suppose if you mounted the mustache the bar itself would be capable of deflecting quite a bit due to its construction. I would say there is a fairly noticeable difference with polyurethane bushings in the mustache bar, I'll look for it, but there is a video of an EVO out there with a camera under the car and you can see the diff move drastically on power and off power, especially on shifts. In the scheme of things probably not a thing most people will notice when just normally driving, but I find that pre-movement a bit nauseating as the force comes a bit after the input. I did the GM mount up top as the nose wants to come up when you are on the throttle the GM mount is supposed to be mounted to the bottom of a cross member so it is working upside down, while the casting of it kind of supports the tabs being pushed down when it is mounted correctly, mounted upside down the tabs kind of do bend away polyurethane with just gravity. I added the snubbing piece (good name for it) to give support while it is not under load. I will agree though it would be a waste to poly mount things if NVH is your concern. Newzed is right, the poly kits are popular as replacing with stock bushings can be a real chore requiring quite a bit of press work if you can even find all the rubber bits. I have a mostly stripped interior, 3 inch exhaust with a bullet muffler, and a whiny fuel pump, so I have no reference for hearing diff whine really. I've added some sound deadening since then and I find it acceptable, but I have a daily driver so I don't have to live with the car.

Welcome to the forums. First off I would give the forum rules a read just to get familiar, runs awesome is great, but it is not easy to get facts off of. Some numbers like good compression values would iterate the point more clearly in a factual manner that would make it easier to convince others that your engine is indeed awesomely running. The reality is that an L28ET swap will be easier, cheaper, and more powerful in the end, but I don't mind bench racing once in a while. Is there a reason that you don't want to swap in an L28ET? Or is there a reason why you want to keep the L24? If it is just plain old boneitis then your fishing for having your cake and eating it too which is pretty daft. First off we need a baseline, what do you have? What head and what block? What resources? What skill? What aptitude? I am not sure what the exhaust ports have to do with the fuel rail not fitting. The L24 head INTAKE port probably doesn't have the injector reliefs to take the factory injectors. If it is an E31 head the square ports will take an L28ET manifold from what I remember. Your second category is glossing over a big thing, fuel is important, how do you plan on getting fuel to the motor, blow thru carb? Draw thru carb? FI connversion? Man with a spray bottle? Spark management is also important, stand alone spark control? Aftermarket ECU? Fixed distributor? Man with a match? High compression/flat pistons generally means you have to play with timing a bit more, run higher octane, and most likely you won't be able to run as large a PSI of booste. I want to say most of the combos keep this motor from being an interference motor so I don't think that is as big a concern. You aren't really going to be finding any of these parts off the shelf, it is going to be on craigslist or ebay most likely, occasionally a junkyard or auto parts recycler. Cheap and reliable don't go hand in hand here with the exception of the L28ET as that is fairly cheap and as it was an OEM offering so fairly reliable. The cheap way to do some things will just be a liability down the road, that doesn't mean you need gold plated exhaust studs or anything like that, but it does mean that gluing fittings onto the pan, running ebay parts, running bandaid setups will compromise reliability. For example if you want cheap you would fix the distributor to one timing setting, but without the ability to control spark, you will be running the engine in un-ideal circumstances part of the time either on boost or off boost which leads to early wear if not outright failures. If you want cheap you would do a draw through turbo, but one hiccup on start up or backfire and you will be blowing out your intake as well as turbo and carb. With that in mind your budget is pretty light. For a basic conversion, keeping the L24... Turbo manifold Tubocharger Oil feed line Oil return line Oil feed fitting Oil return fitting Block oil feed fitting Block oil return fitting Intake manifold Throttle body Injectors ECM Fuel rail Fuel pressure regulator Fuel pump Crank trigger wheel or dizzy Down pipe Intercooler Intercooler piping Intercooler piping joiners (silicone couplers) Clamps A decent turbo is going to set you back about $600 off the shelf and the cheapest ECU that could run engine with some control will be a megasquirt and that would be about $400 (both those numbers are rounding down). That is half of your budget gone. If you were going as cheap as possible you would be taking this stuff off of an L28ET, but once you take off all the parts you are going to be left with basically a stripped long block which wouldn't function anyways. Given how easy it is to pull the motor in our cars it would honestly be more effort to transfer everything over then it would be to transfer the block which is why people would recommend otherwise. I would recommend you sit down and write out what you want and why. Your overall budget is pretty decent, put a bit of money into the suspension and the interior and have a numbers matching driver would keep the most value and keep you entertained. I want to say Rome listened to forum advice and ended up with a pretty sweet turbocharged ride in that ball park. Now if you were to say limited to that budget by some rule set like you had an actual guideline you had to follow, there are some interesting ways to boost an L24 on a dime and nickle budget, but without knowing your mechanical aptitude and skillset, I wouldn't be anywhere close to recommending you go down that road.

That guy is about 45 minutes away from where I live, my friend worked at a shop near there and picked it up for me so yes, exactly that one lol. I have the red bushing pictured up top with that tiered cake thing on the bottom where the original rubber mount is.

Hmm, interesting, I'll edit the summit link when I find the actual part number on a different website. For the front of the diff I used the RT mount that has the ES bushing up top the GM transmission mount that holds it from the top. On the bottom cross member that usually harbors the diff insulator, I removed that mount and put in a bump stop type poly bushing. The diff will hold itself up without the bottom support, but I figured while I was there I would capture the diff. Yes the bump stop that newzed link is similar, I'll have to dig up what it was, but it was recommended to me and I ordered it. I think it had like 4-6 steps when I got it, now it looks like a hockey puck with a divot out of it. Once I made the major cut, I just used a bowl brush to grind away the unwanted material until it hugged the bottom of the diff nicely.

I ran the stock datsun style engine mounts with my 7m which by all accounts according to the internet was pushing 300+hp, they look pretty much brand new still. Avernier I think was saying he solid mounts all of his JZ swaps and barely feels it so I don't know how far that goes. I had poly bushings all around and all the squeaks and rattles were user error, you do have to make sure to loctite/thread lock all the bolts with the stiffer bushings as they seem to like to come undone a bit easier then with rubber bushings. I went mostly solid rod ends now and I have to say, I feel a little more, but hear a lot less. For my diff I did poly in the mustache bar and a poly mount using the RT mount and a poly or rubber cone type thing on the bottom on the bottom cross member. Not a nissan part it is an energy suspension shave to desired thickness piece Kind of like the piece below, but much fatter I can't recall the part number or the actual name. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9101g?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-energy-suspension&gclid=CNvw_tvhptECFcZhfgod_RUCqQ

Good god I love this forum, I tried to tell someone not to use poly bushings in the TC area and got called all sorts of names. I did poly pretty much everywhere except Gmachine Spherical Bushing kit for the TC rods. Just make sure you grease up the bushings well and you won't encounter any squeaks really. One thing I have been told and tried to adhere to is to match bushings for the drive line. If your front diff mount is rubber then keep the mustache rubber, if you go poly in the rear then make sure to go poly for the front.

Bought the CX mounts as I didn't feel I had the space or time to make new mounts this time around. I had heard a couple other people had bought it, and the pictures seemed adequate so I bit the bullet, and of the 3 available kits out there to mount a 2jz into a 240z, one is unavailable, one is way too complete for me (driveshaft, shifter extension trans mount etc etc), and the other was the CX kit. First off with the test fit, the mounts were not even willing to sit flat. Looks like they added these ears on the side of the mount so that they could in theory be drilled into the side of the cross member to keep the mount from rotating or moving. Mine was bent way out of spec, the ears were keeping the mount from actually sitting flat. I had to bash them flatter so that the mounts wouldn't sit all crooked and stress the one main bolt that holds it to the stock cross member. With the mounts installed I noticed a really high offset to the passenger side. On going back over all the material and a couple other users looks like this is the norm for this kit. Personally I really dislike the engine from sitting crooked in the bay, especially if there is no reason for it to do so. Their does not seem to be any interference on either side from the mount sitting in the middle, in fact if anything this makes it more difficult to route the exhaust and any single turbo manifold as space is already a premium near the shock tower. So pretty unhappy at the moment. Right now the engine is dangling in the engine bay about where I want it. I think I'll make some careful measurements and make my own down the road and swap them in, but for now I am stuck with this mount until I can put my car together and dig out my welder and my fabrication tools. At that point my hope is it will just be a matter of lifting the engine up and swapping out the mounts and then tweaking the exhaust and intake path. On the point of lifting the engine. With the head off to the ship I went out to look for some bolts to hold the engine block up. Turns out they jumped up to an M11 size head bolt which is pretty hard to find commercially. Instead of using my ARP studs for just lifting the block I decided to reuse some of the old head bolts. Other then that things seemed to go well. I'm guessing this engine was from an auto as it did not have a clutch pilot bearing or it was removed with whatever transmission the previous owner had installed in his 240sx. I pounded a new one in and put on the 1jz flywheel. After quite a bit of searching I ended up going with loctite 243 for the ARP crank bolts. the ARP literature calls for blue loctite, but as these are through holes in the crank that can see oil other people say to use FIPG on the bolts instead. Looks like 243 is a thread sealing/locking compound with oil tolerance. The stuff came out of the tube much thicker and seemed less runny then the 242 stuff I had been using elsewhere. I was curious how to keep the flywheel from moving, easy to do with a friend holding the crank, but I didn't want to bother anyone with something so small, but a little trick using a piece of chain and an extension through a non threaded hole in the engine and a used pressure plate bolt let me torque the bolts to 70lbs with ease. With the flywheel on I decided I wanted to put the clutch on the engine instead of putting it on the transmission as suggested. It requires quite a bit of effort to crank down on this clutch as it is a pull type clutch and in rest state is regularly engaged so I wanted to make sure it was seated before torquing the bolts down as compared to having to rotate the crank slowly while tightening the bolts through the inspection cover in the bell housing. With the parts assembled I put a jack under the transmission to raise it up, and used the load leveler to match the angle and slid them together. I had a bit of frustration when the two pieces didn't want to slide together, but that was just trickery as basically trying to push them together at height at an angle was lifting the transmission up as it tried to close the distance with the engine. With the engine lowered and the jack lowered I was able to slide them togehter enough to start threading in the bell housing bolts. One reason for the delay was waiting for some JIS spec bolts I decided to order. When I put my 7m in I had the benefit of smaller bolts and the ability to use an extension as the drivetrain was out of the car, but with it in the car I had to make it as convenient as possible. Definitely want to get JIS spec bolts here as a 17mm socket barely fit over the space, a regular M12 size bolt bought here in the states would use a 19mm head which would mean micro turns with an open headed box wrench. So engine sits in the engine bay. Head should be ready this week and I can start putting things back together and start measuring for some other bits. Still have to find an aluminum welder to help me modify the intake and to figure out my fuel situation, but with the head back and the engine hanging in the engine I can go ahead and start with some more of the plumbing and definitely start clearing out some really needed space.

Fudge, I really don't like it when it looks like the motor is not lined up in the engine bay. Plus yea routing the exhaust will be a bit trickier and with my turbo manifold I should be close to the shock tower as is anyway, now I'll definitely be in the tower... You'll have to post up what your guy ends up doing. I looked up drift boss and he ended up moving the ears on the cross member from what it sounds like.

Depends on your gearing. If you got like a 3.1 rear end and used an R154 you would most likely be able to run highway speeds without being in boost, I think with a 3.7 rear end I sit around 2300rpm. At that point you would be getting comparable mileage to an NA supra or IS300/sc300, but better since there is quite a bit less weight, but still probably low 20mpg figures. With PWM control, injector size really isn't a factor as it used to be where 1000cc injectors would get absolute dog turd mileage. Once you get into boost though you could empty your tank pretty quick. When I was shopping fuel pumps I was told to figure fuel usage at about 1 gallon/10hp. At 440hp you would need 44gph. That would drain a 16 gallon fuel cell in about 20 minutes, granted I don't know anywhere in the world you can be hard on the throttle for 20 minutes at a time.

Have you noticed how far the engine sits to the passenger side with the CX mounts? I was about to put my motor in and it would just be sittings so far off line that it would look wrong to me.

Mustache bar mount studs are supposed to be perpendicular to the frame. The modification didn't make any sense to me either, as it should located it in the same place, looks and actually are can be deceiving. That is why one of the things this forum likes are numbers and dimensions. If anything the measurements will tell you how off you are, the stock bar can flex quite a bit under the weight and such, wanted the control arms at a JY and had a diff touching the ground while the car was jacked up only being held in by the mustache bar. Clear pictures with a light source to illuminate the parts may show something that we are missing. If the car was running really loose or broken bushings for a while or like new zed says an accident could have twerked the mustache bar structure. Did you round out the mount for the Technoversion kit? I know mine has about a 1/4-1/2 inch groove so that the ES mount from up top captures the curvature of the diff.

Can you use a ruler and see if the T3 mount lowers the diff? I found someone else using a T3 bar had to notch the lower cross member and forgo the bottom mount all together.

That is quite a bit of a gap. You might be able to pull it shut especially with a thicker gasket, but it may be better just to have it belt sanded flat (you shouldn't have to pay for the more expensive decking, it is just an exhaust flange). Regarding the hole in the collector. That is a conundrum if you can really see light through it, but from the angle it almost looks like light between the tubes, is it really from the collector? Welding through the collector could possibly be done with a flexible tip mig welder from the collected end, but welds on the inside where exhaust flow in my memory doesn't really seem to do very well. Short of doing that or just basically welding all around it at more reachable level you don't have much of a recourse other then to cut out a hole and weld it and then patch it back up again.

Maybe we need to employ a spring setup to set a limit where excess pressure would just be used into the spring. Surely it can't be too much movement though right? I mean if the shock towers moved that much you would imagine body lines that are mounted to sheet metal would come in contact with each other like the hood/cowl or the fender/door no?

^ That statement was really confusing me for a while, led me on a wild goose chase with ATV/Motocross riders and decoupling theories on standing on pegs etc. Then I realized that raising the floor, THEN lowering the entire car would lower the CG of the car. Makes way more sense now, carry on.

Ah I see the ground down threads now.

I wonder if you stacked the weight on top of the mount or something of that nature. http://enginewhisperer.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/diffmountinstalled.jpg ^That should more or less be how the stock setup is. The mount should be fairly low. There is an early and a late cross bar, but if it came off your car I would imagine it should be the correct one. I think on my car with the RT mount I just have about a 1/2 inch puck from ES that pushes up the nose of the diff from the bottom on top of the cross bar, it is mostly captured from up top by the RT mount.

As previously mentioned, looks solid! Almost seems like you would need flats on the cap so you can add some preload. Really looking forward to your reports on how it feels.

That clears up a lot with the edit. The bar is supposed to be perpendicular to the chassis it shouldn't have a twist in it, it may have gotten a twist due to a worn front diff mount over time, but it should more or less be flat in the back. Hard to imagine the rear mustache bar flexing especially that TTT unit. The guess would be your front mount if you are reusing the stock one is probably incorrect? Hard to see, but it looks like the front mount is loose in the last picture, but the diff is level. Would it be correct in assuming that if you bolted up the front mount it would jack the diff up by about 2-3 inches?

Rough my fat ass. I would probably pay for something like that! Possibly going off tangent of the original post though, maybe best to start a new thread? Would be a shame to hide something that is potentially useful on page two in a post with a different topic. You'll have to report your findings. It has been a forever thought of mine would be interesting to see if there is any merit.

At $600 that probably is a lot to pay for a VLSD diff, if he was sold it as a CLSD then he was had. If it was through ebay I would get in contact with the seller and see if he is willing to make things right.

Hmm my little search didn't bring up that plastic piece, maybe only on a certain trim of the car. You have to love this site lol. If you look down the hole that the axle goes in, on a VLSD you will see that the passenger side has splines, then a gap and then more splines further in. I want to say the inner spline is the viscous coupling. The VLSD coupling is a sealed unit that has two or maybe more discs with a viscous fluid inside (doesn't need external fluid), under certain torque/load it basically locks the discs together causing the whole assembly to turn instead of sending power to one axle. Under low/no load it allows them to turn independently to a certain extent (you would have to over come whatever preload and the friction of the viscous fluid. I want to say mine turns together even with the wheels in the air, but I also shimmed mine up so that may be adding preload to the assembly. I think I made a video of mine blown apart I'll have to see if I can find it.

A fellow seattlite, hello! Hmm a little hard to tell. It almost looks like that front mount is a bit too tall. Are you running an RT style mount on top? That would be advisable if you are going poly in the rear. With an R180 the stock mustache bar sits forward like mirror image of how you have it. I'm not sure if the TTT bar accounts for that or if they purposely put the R180 bar that way to pull the diff back to fix the axle angles.

The battery would be the concern. In the cold they output less due to the temperature essentially slowing down the chemical reaction that causes the voltage differential. During cranking the voltage also drops to about 9 volts or less which if the battery was undercharged and cold could drop to something like 7 volts which might not be enough to power the ECU. However if you had a jump while cranking then this is unlikely the case.

Probably a better idea to fit everything and then disassemble and paint before final assembly. Going to be a real bummer to find out that your mounts hit the steering column or your intake manifold or turbo contact the strut tower and needs some massaging via a hammer to a nicely painted bay.