seattlejester

You can pull a spark plug or all the spark plugs and crank it and see if gas comes out with the fuel pump relay pulled. Then if it is clear you can put the spark plugs back in and do as NewZed says and use some starter fluid to see if fuel is the problem. I am curious what the methods to "heat with several devices" entails. If it is ECM controlled then it might not be getting sufficient voltage especially during cranking in the cold.

The sensor could indeed be a red herring. I run with what I read and that gets me in trouble sometimes. Just making sure we don't suggest the wrong splines. I am curious if the 280zx turbo shafts are thicker to make up the slack in the J30 center. I had assumed they were the same since people used to jam the 280zx turbo axles to get CV axles in their 280z's without swapping differentials. I found it really tight to get the axle in there. Are you planning a swap into a long nose? I would be curious to see what you do for your axles. I have to revisit mine and I'm thinking the AMC axle route. For the domestic market I think the 3.9 is more or less limited to the 300zx and maybe one or two years of the 280zx. I know the R30, C31 turbo I think both came with 3.9 as options, that is with the assumption that the ring gear wasn't just swapped onto an lsd center section. Being in canada the variety is up there to be from something we really are not sure of down here. It looks VLSD to me, my open 300zx looked like a traditional open R200 from a 280z. The full housing kind of points towards the VLSD nature, and the clutch types you can usually see discs for maintenance purposes through the view hole at least in the subaru R180's you can. It would definitely help if you could take a shot straight through the center from the axle point of view, we can count splines and determine if it has the spacing for the VLSD center which would narrow the search. I think more or less the bottom line depends on some assumption or eventual deductions. If it is a 29 spline center VLSD, your best bet is to find a non TC or ABS (I can't remember the one without the blades on the outer shaft) J30 and pull the input shafts from that, then run a hybrid axle linked above if you were so inclined to use the differential. If it is a 30 spline center VLSD, a Q45 is probably the car to pull the input shafts from and adapt your way out. What makes you think M30 specifically?

I was surprised with how much it moved while just bleeding the brakes, I mean that is a fairly passive motion, imagine if you are actually trying to stop. It goes directly forward so I would think something from like the strut tower would be ideal so that it is not pulling laterally on the fender or something. I guess the best bet would be to weld in reinforcements while everything is out. The FRS seems to suffer from this problem. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21238 I'm thinking a triangulated bracket using one or two of the strut tower bolts and maybe a third point drilled into the side of the shock tower for the third leg with a similar bolt/cushion setup would be pretty effective. Another fun one to think about is getting under the car while someone bounces up and down on the seat, seeing that panel flex is pretty crazy.

It is a 3.91:1 or basically a 3.9:1, but given that you can swap the ring gear that isn't exactly the best indicator. That sensor on the housing is making it difficult. I've looked up all the regular culprits and some of the non regular culprits like S12, C31, R30, and none of those have that sensor. I've even looked at some truck differentials thinking it might have to do with front to back balance, but I'm not sure any of the older trucks had R200's.

I seem to recall that the shiro axle could be used in the J30 swap as one of the options which would lead me to believe that it is also a 28 spline. That looks like the J30 inputs in that picture linked. The center section definitely screams VLSD though. http://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/vlsdInstall.html That might have some suggestions for engaging the VLSD, but if it isn't the common 28 spline most of those probably won't apply. According to this post, it seems like everything is 29 spline? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70534-r-200-spline-counts-and-mystery-hlsd/ I wish I still had access to my inputs to count.

You have plenty of choices. You are on a swap forum after all lol. Staying with the stock datsun stuff is the only time you really get burned. You spend as much as you are comfortable with. You can spend $400 on a set of authentic fairlady mirrors or you can buy ones for a Celica for $30-50. You can get 250hp out of these cars pretty easy, nitrous, turbo, supercharger, it is just a matter of how much you want to spend. Is there a reason you need stiffer mounts? I had stock replacements on mine, and a really low strut bar that I notched to clear the valve cover. Left about a 1/4 inch for the valve cover to move before hitting the bar and the paint never came off my valve cover. Mckinney used to do bespoke poly mounts for I think $150, they may still be able to whip you up a set, it is pretty similar to the RB20 mounts afterall.

Good luck, the 1jzgte wasn't sold in a lot of english speaking markets, Canada and the UK come to mind, although I'm not sure how many of those were just straight imports instead of dealership sales which means no TSRMs in english. Best bet is to just find a pinout and trace the wires and see if they are the same. Google search brings up a few. Why are you trying to start the engine out of the car? This took about 20 seconds to find... http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?635253-1jzgte-VVTi-JZX100-harness-diagram In that same post how to start a jzx100 1jzgte out of the car... http://vid981.photobucket.com/albums/ae297/ladysivitri/IMAG0037.mp4

Power to ECU Switch for Ignition Switch for starter ECU to fuel pump Power to fuel injectors Power to coils Make sure to run a ground from the motor to the battery and attach all chassis grounds to the motor or to the battery. If I remember you need the fuse box and relay box to make it work properly, but you might be able to bypass those with inline relays. Be careful. This is a good way to burn up a harness if you don't know how to read a wiring diagram.

Miles: Well the throttle pivot doesn't apply to me, but my engine is going to be sitting right against the firewall with a longer intake runner setup so maybe the larger diameter may prove troublesome. That does sound quite nice though, I will attest that 240z + 15/16 MC does feel stiff. Like the brakes are working, but if you want to stop you really have to muscle into it. I am very curious how much of that is the firewall deflection. I think I'll have to whip up a MC brace after all this engine swapping business is done. Neverdone: Depending on how big it is it may interfere with people who are running side draft carbs with filter boxes? And adjusting the link could mean lengthening, shortening, bending or some other combination of things that people are not really wanting to deal with. Really a modern booster and larger bore master would be nice, but I fear just the sheer size of them nowadays make them problematic.

I agree semi-metalics have terrible characteristics in the cold, I'm running a standard parts store ceramic both front and back, but I imagine I could step up to like an EBC pad or something more performance oriented like a Hawk pad if I wanted more bias. I want to say there was a thread somewhere where people were listing the codes on the variety of parts store pads and common performance pads. Granted in reality I am not sure it is really worth chasing that slight improvement as the harsher the pad the more likely it will be to eat into the rotor. I will say that half inch of travel before the brakes do anything is kind of disconcerting moving from a modern car to the Z, always a moments panic before I realize the the brakes are there just a bit further down. I am very interested in the 280z booster, wilwood 1 inch combo, does it feel good enough for the investment? I have rebuilt 240z booster and the 15/16th master and it works, but I definitely get on the brakes earlier. I will say though that I have been thrown forward enough in my harness to regret having an anti sub belt. You really have to lay into it, which actually raises an observation when my friend was bleeding the brakes where I can see the firewall flex from the brake pressure. Our cars would probably merit from a master cylinder brace.

The root of the problem is that while everyone knows of the toyota front brake and rear disk swap, there are a lot of actual combinations. This is even more complicated by the fact depending on how you do the rear swap you can end up with a variety of diameters for the rear disk which can affect the ratio. That is why you get some people suggesting that the fronts lock up way before the rear (insufficient rear bias), and others that say that they have to turn in their proportioning valve quite a bit before the rears stop locking up. I worked out just the bias not factoring in a lot of factors on the second page of the link miles provided http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113398-toyota-truck-calipers-ventilated-brake-rotors-mm-rear-disc-brakes/?p=1064030 From the math on the rotors and piston sizes, all the 4 runner options place you in the higher 60s to 70 percent front bias. Your specific setup assuming you used the rear 280zx 258mm rotor is 68/32. My guess is that stock brakes in good working order are about 63/37 give or take a % or two. The best feel is going to come where the rears are doing the absolute most work they can without locking up or locking up shortly after the fronts lock up and where the fluid displaced feels like it engages quickly enough with good pedal feel. Another consideration is that given that our rotors at least for the fronts sit attached to our hub the pistons most likely have more to push out, with bigger pistons or more pistons combined with a stock size master this can feel like the brakes don't really engage till the bottom 1/2 of the travel. It would be nice if someone had a bias bar and could test the actual % where the locking shifts, but alas... Interestingly enough miles experience puts his % as follows. Stock front - Maxima rear, 15/16 MC, stock booster: no better than stock and eliminated drum maintenance issues (64/36) Toyota solid - stock drums, 15/16 MC, stock booster : no better than stock (?) Toyota vented -stock drums, 15/16 MC, stock booster : no better than stock (?) Toyota Vented - 240SX, 15/16 MC, stock booster: no better than stock (70/30) Toyota solid - Maxima, 15/16 MC, stock booster: worse than stock (66/34) Toyota solid - 240SX, 1 inch MC, 280Z booster: 280Z booster eliminated stiffness caused by the 1 in. MC. Bias = .66 front .34 rear. Average street brakes. Currently on my 240Z since 2009. (65/35) The last setup is about 2% different from my personally assumed stock bias point and in addition it has better booster assistance due to the larger most likely newer booster and the larger bore in the master cylinder able to displace more fluid with less effort which combined brings this to a pretty ideal setup using OEM parts. It would be interesting to see if a slightly more aggressive compound in the rear would make it feel even better.

I've pulled separate and installed together. Just remember to take the shifter out and make sure to block off the transmission if it has fluid. Having the manifolds off makes it a lot easier to get to the engine mounts. Make sure you have a lot of head room. If you make sure your load is locked (grabbing onto a single link in the chain instead of having the chain just slipped through the hook) you can have someone stand on the car and apply weight to the transmission to get it to tip in. A load leveler is much easier as long as you get a decent one.

My understanding was that not using tri-gas would end up with a weld joint that would eventually rust. If the piece isn't going to detriment from a little rust then no problem, but if you want the stainless property of rust resistance then tri-gas was the way to go. Definitely different, I believe we had to play with the settings on the welder which we were using to do a couple mild pieces further down on the exhaust, different intensity and speed needed.

My concern with the holes is that it will eventually act as perforation and tear when you apply a load to it like say going over a bump and you bounce in your seat. I have heard por-15 can actually add some structural integrity back, but I have also heard it does it by curing really hard, making it a pain in the arse to remove later on. I get it though, sometimes you just aren't able to work on a piece, and this is way better then just letting the rust fester. That rear end is looking a little dull now with all those shiny parts on the front .

Right it was something there was two of, I looked at a chewed up ring gear on a friends diff a while back and I thought for some reason that was what failed. In retrospect that is really not the piece in question. I think the FAQ goes into a bit more detail. You can use it, just don't shock load it would be my suggestion. There are guys running v8's and high hp inline 6's through stock R180's either by limitation of race class or financials. Just don't be surprised if it lets go on you. Might be worth looking into an upgrade that replaces all the components in the rear, whether that is the TTT setup, wifrit's 8.8 swap, datsunparts 8.8 swap, CFJ rear end swap, or DSS swap. Each has their own bit of merit.

I think it goes ring gear, stub axle, half shafts if memory serves. If you break teeth on the ring and pinion then best case scenario it is going to miss those teeth and act like an impact where it will grab suddenly when it encounters better teeth, more likely will be the broken teeth will jam the gears causing it to seize. If you aren't moving when it happens, then no big deal, car just won't move. If you break a stub axle then the only thing holding your wheel on (if you still have stock drums) is gone. Your wheel will most likely leave the car. This is more of an issue with the 240z as it has the smaller 25 spline compared to the 27 spline of the 280z, not that the 27 spline is the definitive solution, but it does have more meat on it. If you break a half shaft, best case is as mtnickel says it still stays attached, but has a ton of play as the caps basically blew out with all the bearings falling out in short order. Worst case scenario it actually separates completely and whips around hitting arms, lines, body panels. If you slip the clutch quite a bit and use the clutch disk as a bleed off then you probably won't have too much trouble, like mtnickel said it is the shock loads that will destroy parts. I ran the stock half shafts and the 25 spline stub axles for a few hundred miles behind my 7mgte putting out maybe 300tq for a while. I had a stock clutch that I slipped a bit to prevent wear on the drive line components, even with a few hardish gear shifts in the wet, nothing let go on me, but I pulled that for a 280zx turbo/280z stub axle swap as soon as I could. I think Johnc said he had 275ft lbs put through an R180 for a while, his concern was the heat generated from abuse at that level. He didn't recommend me putting more then 300ft lbs through an STI R180.

Picture of the pitting on the idler pulley. I ended up ordering a new belt as well as a new timing belt pulley assembly as the old belt looked a bit beaten on the back side where it had the pitting pushed up against it. After using razor blades for about two hours against the deck, I decided to try out a Roloc 3m nylon brush wheel. Since I gave away my compressor a while ago I ended up buying a cheap electric die grinder which was honestly too fast and annihilated the brush, but still managed some decent results. Definitely need some type of voltage controller for that die grinder, and like a brush hone this stuff makes a mess, but apparently is soft enough that you can even use it on the aluminum head. I had a bit of a struggle getting the crank timing belt pulley back on, but a bit of cleaning with some steel wool and some very slight wiggling made it slide all the way on. Plan was to throw the upper oil pan on at this point, but it turns out that my kit did not have an appropriate sized o-ring, so I had to end up ordering one from toyota, furthermore it turned out that the rear main seal retaining plate seals against part of the upper oil pan so replacing that would have to be first. Just picked up the o-ring today and the rear main seal is on hand. Hopefully get to put both those pieces on and then assemble the rest of the bottom end and be done with that for now. 1jz bell housing is also bolted onto the R154 and the clutch fork pivot was cleaned and transferred as well. Car is ready to receive the block, it will be a matter of lifting the block, pulling the stand, bolting on the flywheel/pressure plate/throwout bearing collar/clutch/pilot bearing, then mating it up with the trans mission. Joa says the mounts leave a lot of room between the steering rack and the bottom of the pan, so I may have to slot the CX mounts vertically once the lateral position is determined.

Sweet moving along. Please keep us updated with if you end up dropping your engine via slotting the mounts. I just bolted in my bell housing and am working on my last seal, would be nice to know what to expect. Careful with balancing welded drive shafts, I thought a rattle I had at 40 was from something else until I had a new drive shaft made. Notoriously difficult to balance if there is even a slight bit of angle in the tube.

I did see his series, I didn't realize he had updated it recently. Thanks for that. Prepost edit: Goodness gracious though, DO NOT use as much RTV as he did I don't know why people do that, these are almost completely flat surfaces when you tighten the bolts they will have an absolutely minuscule amount of space between the surface the TSRM says to use a 2-3mm bead for the oil pan surface that is 1/10th of an inch, all that RTV has to go somewhere and if it ends up in your pan it will absolutely clog your pickup eventually.

Oh, that's good to hear. I was kind of thinking that I needed to go stare at the wall of rad hoses at the parts store to come up with something. V-mount in theory sounds good, but without much movement they struggle from what I have heard. Having a massive vent in the scoop that is functional would be pretty sweet!

It is an interesting thing to dissect, hard to get rid of the motivation behind each party though. For the budget people a bandaided 2jz-ge with ebay parts could be done for less then the cost of a 2jzgte. For the power people throwing lots of money it almost makes no difference where you start. For people in the middle it really can shift either way based on a few small choices and I think for some people that is hard to say as that would mean their choice can be "wrong." It is interesting to look at. Would love the help, but my situation now makes having people over difficult/awkward, pretty much sneaking in a bit of work when I can after work until gates are locked. Plan is to just get it running on its own and then maybe rent some real garage space somewhere to do an overhaul sometime. The big milestone will be getting the block sealed up and assembled and sitting in the bay. Really should plan on getting a real garage, but with thoughts of going back to school, moving just for that seems a bit extravagant. Wouldn't mind talking shop sometime though .

Thinking about it, given the compression Isn't it more like a wheel for that specific bolt? Where the friction of the surface more or less supports the weight and the bolt acts as a clamping force? I think drift-boss used them for a while so he would probably be the best person to answer the question. You totally have me beat lol. My block is still basically stripped sitting on a stand, but I do have drive shaft and trans all mounted and taken care of. What radiator are you running?

Thanks, more to come, I've just been dragging my feet. I think I could get the motor in in about 2 days, but I have just been dragging my feet. Still need to figure out if I am going to just clean up the head or just have the machine shop take care of it for me. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57607-2jzgte-vs-2jzge/?p=529582 Lol, if you think that post is huge, you should check the toyota section. Mine is going to make your eyes bleed once it is finish. Honestly I think if you have modest goals the GTE is a better option, don't have to spend money on turbo's/manifolds/injectors etc etc. You have to lean on the little twins pretty hard once you start getting above 400hp from what it seems like so if you are above modest or think you will be in the area above modest a single setup starts looking like a good idea at that point since you have to buy a manifold/turbo/injectors anyway a GE could be a savings, although if you don't have the ignition setup and such I think the cost still favors a GTE. I don't think the GE is better then the GTE like Bean seems to imply, it just has financial merits at certain points for dexter72 and I given our turbo motors that we had prior I think it was a good route. For someone coming in fresh I am not so sure it would be. However I think in NA form a GE swap would be pretty great, my ideal orientation, relatively high compression, even higher with a VVTI setup, potential VVTI use. Stick a higher revving valve train, some ITB's, and a long tube header and I think that could also be a blast. Plus your transmission option is going to be absolutely dirt cheap with how many W58's people tend to throw away looking for power. I think I will stop in NA land for a little bit with my setup, it is going to have low compression and less then ideal intake and exhaust manifolds for NA, but I still imagine it will be a hoot.

Oh wow, I didn't think they would be that high, I wonder if you could flip them at that height. The stock block is held up by two studs of the same thickness if I remember, although that is at more of an angle. I do think adding a supporting block under neath where the bracket sits to help support the weight would be a good idea, but we'll see. I want to say that the bushing bracket felt almost like aluminum, or maybe it was just the finish on a cast piece of stainless steel. Keep us updated on what you decide!

Excellent, I unpackaged mine to look at, but haven't fit them to the motor, sounds fairly easy. You could slot or drill a hole vertically on the plate that mounts to the engine to get the motor to sit a bit lower, but I would almost rather have the engine sit taller then scrape the oil pan if that is why the spacing is the way it is.