seattlejester

Interesting, I've never had to do that with my brakes, but have had to do that with my clutch slave. Is 50cc enough to push air all the way back to the master? Or do you have to rebuild part way through?

Cheap roll over protection, and can act as a water trap to keep the smell of gas to a minimum. That's the reason I did it.

Also don't use the one hand bleeder pumps, if you have a leak in the system it will just pull air in through the leak, alternatively it can pull fluid from another line with the Tees if the route to the master is really long. Once you get the system setup again do the double bleed. Get two containers, fill the bottom by an inch or so of clean brake fluid and put it on a box so your hose isn't super long, make sure your hose is fully submerged in the fluid. Crack open both lines either both fronts or both backs and keep pumping. If you do it correctly any bubble gets pushed through the line and bubbles into the reservoir, then when you let off the brake it pulls non bubbled fluid from the bottom of the reservoir. Keep doing this until you don't see any bubbles come up. I use some cut water bottles and just put one foot in the car so I can monitor one side. Once you have successfully purged the system you can bleed the system one side at a time to get good clean fluid in there. Repeat for the other circuit.

Mine are fairly large lazy loops. I think the problem is gravity. Looks like your system goes straight down to loop then comes up, when you smash on the brakes the fuel probably sloshes up there and down the line and sits in a coil, keep doing that and eventually you fill up the line and it pushes out the fuel. In theory if you have the line head up a bit first to a point where the fuel can't over come the height then it shouldn't fill with fuel so often, think of like a stock fuel system and how high the filler is compared to where the tank sits, granted they have a flapper valve. Kind of the downfall of a fuel cell, you could run with a bit less fuel, but looks like that is a fairly small fuel cell.

That should work, but I guess under autocross and hard braking you can push fuel up through the line. I would say drain the lines completely and try lifting the vent line before heading down would help the fuel from sloshing straight into the line. Mine goes up to where the stock filler is in the car using one of the vent lines in the filler, then goes down through the filler, coils, then terminates.

I guess it depends on what you plan on doing with it, where you are going to drive it, if you want room to grow. I've been reading a lot on the supra forums and over there people go way bigger "just in case" to the point it just seems excessive. Up here where it is damp most of the time I didn't have traction in 3rd if I romped on the throttle at around 300hp, my friend and I were talking and short of a race track there just isn't too much road where you could take advantage of high hp, but plenty of roads you can take advantage of with good suspension. I guess it depends on your area. I just can't imagine wanting more in such a light car unless drag racing or highway pulls are your cup of tee, but...with that said I'm moving up to about 400hp this time around, I swear for me it was more or less to justify this engine swap as swapping in another engine for the same hp would be a bit silly . I guess I'll have to agree, if you have the budget for it, it is nice to build for room to grow within reason. Granted the other crutch is if you have room to grow its like having a pile of cocaine on the table, you might have thought you never would use it, but it is there, the temptation is going to be hard to resist.

Very cool, nice to see an offering that is less then $1500. Going to have to slot this in with future plans.

Nice buy!

^Interesting, I imagine in a L28ET? How much did you see your power band move? HP gains? I just ordered my turbo and went from a 0.83 to a 0.68 in T4. The tech and I were very happy when we found that choice. I can see your point if the turbo spools too much at the bottom end it will hit a bit hard which makes it harder to ease into. Overall it didn't seem like too much of a difference a couple hundred RPM in spool location and the potential for a bit of horsepower (as far as I know), but it is true it depends on your end goal if you want more power go bigger A/R and have a smaller power band, or go with a smaller A/R and have a broader power band but maybe loose some power at the top end. An interesting benefit if running a small A/R I was told was that due to the increased exhaust pressure a wastegate becomes more efficient for a given size, granted with a bigger A/R you would need more exhaust to spool. Please don't take this as arguing, it would be nice to hear your thoughts on the matter. Regarding water cooling, I wonder if that is still the case with modern oils and knowledge of just cooling the car off prior to shut off. The point from what I understand was that when shut off the heat would basically bake the oil and cause earlier failure, but as long as you run a cooldown regiment and quality oil I wonder if that is still a big concern. A lot of single turbo supra guys don't run water cooling, but at the same time I wonder how much a car that needs a single turbo gets driven. Regarding ball bearing, How much longer are we talking about? Usually the ball bearing models run about 4-500 more, at that price you could buy a new center section or several rebuild kits. I personally like BW at the moment as it is the SX line which uses old designs, but still feature extended tips and such, SX-E line which has the new billet wheel and non clipped exhaust wheel along with other upgrades, then the EFR turbos which are just going nuts with integrated compressor valves, exotic material for the wheels, stainless housings etc.

Then get a multimeter and find the short...something is obviously at fault. Short of having a couple bad alternators in a row (which can happen) something changed or you never had it correct in the first place. FSM isn't going to help you with fitting a 280zx alternator into an S30, find one of the excellently written guides online for the swap. I didn't see any mention of the voltage regulator delete was that done? If you have a 240z or 260z then you may have to add a diode to stop the feedback loop, look for it online, you aren't the first. The L wire is supposed to excite the alternator to tell it to function, right now it is probably failing and causing a feedback loop and feeding power via the L wire. That is a lot of voltage to try and keep the car running through what I imagine is a pretty thin gauge wire. Fix it and take your dash out and hope you haven't melted any of the switching blocks.

Hah called it. Then again I shotgunned all the potential problems. Backfire through the intake can definitely point towards poor timing/spark misorder, pretty damn big fire hazard with carbs. Glad you got it running right.

Well what I found out was that the driver side mount was hard up against the plate without the poly bushing tab in. So putting in the tab would push the engine even further away and it was already being held up by the tabs and already very off center. Maybe in the end displacing the engine 2-3 inches to the passenger side? Given that I measured my drive shaft angle and made my trans mount before I bought this kit that was really going to play havoc with my setup. I decided I would fix these now and that way I can just take measurements and make bespoke ones at a later date. Given that these were stainless I had to alter my welding setup. The welding shop was kind and let me borrow the tank over the weekend for just the cost of gas. I cut the rear ear off, carefully ground down the middle until I could bend it over then made a spacer for the location and tacked it in place. With that done, I could cut the front ear off and line it up with the back and weld everything together. Keep in mind this is 3/16 to 1/4 inch I think, with a triple pass it definitely wasn't going anywhere, but it just looked like a stress fracture was waiting to happen, so I bought some more material and welded in reinforcements. And bolted it all in. The passenger side needed no modification other then needing a spacer to push the block towards the middle. I planned on using aluminum (unless anyone has other recommendations) to make the spacer, but couldn't decide how thick to go without actually loading the engine in the bay so right now it is spaced out with quite a few large washers. I'll have to go back and make a solid spacer at a later date, but for now the engine is supported without the crane. Engine is clocked a bit with the head tilting towards the passenger side, but at least the crank and all that is centered. Just a matter of loosening all the bolts and jacking up the passenger side when the time comes to make all the hard connections. Pretty darn excited! Head is sitting in my trunk rebuilt from the machine shop, once that is bolted on I can measure the clearances I have and decide where I want to add a vacuum block to the intake manifold and probably where I will be moving the throttle body flange to. I have to place the order for my turbo soon as well so I can mock up where my turbo will sit. Then finally figure out how to mount the trigger wheel and sensor, dexter72 pretty much blazed the trail there so will most likely be copying his arrangement as I did with quite a few things on this build.

If it is only on left turns I am also thinking a pickup problem or in a rare case the floats shutting off the fuel flow since their pivot is towards the right, that usually has to combo with poor fuel delivery though. Inspection of the gas tank would probably be the place to start, checking for crud, looking for holes in the pickup. Next is the fuel pump making sure the contacts are good and that it is rated for a carb not EFI Then the lines, having a hole or a kink or even stretching the rubber lines as the engine leans over during the turn can cause fuel starvation. Not to mention that if it is using the old lines they aren't rated for the ethanol and can gum up/deteriorate and clog themselves. Then the carbs, a cracked or ill set float can cause issues on turns although usually a cracked one will cause problems all the time. A sticky valve can cause fuel starvation seemingly randomly which can just coincide with turns.

^Seconded, if you don't want to go low, you don't need adjustable coilovers. Get a set of uprated springs and shocks and call it a day.

In case he doesn't check for a while, I can answer a part of the question. Villeman was in contact with local forum members to the cars that he was interested in. He was interested in a couple up here and I offered to go take a look at a couple he was interested in for gas money, but honestly I steered him away as if he was going to ship a car over sees his choices were going to be better in california/arizona then any cars he would have found up here. You could do the same thing, PM an established member in the area or make a post and offer some compensation for a members time if they could go check out a car for you, keep in mind you are a relative newbie so don't be offset if someone doesn't respond or you get few responses, it is a pretty common opening to a scam to anyone who has tried to sell something online, if it is one of the more experienced members they are also going to know what to look for and would be able to get you detailed shots, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if members know their local markets and know if a car is to be stayed away from since it has been listed for months or years. If the car works for you great, I would suggest working out payment through a bank or something of that nature as there are many scams in the US regarding overseas buyers, I would suggest against offering to pay the buyer to drive it to the dock or other such key phrases. Once a deal is made have shipping arrangements made to have the car picked up and delivered to the dock of departure for which an importer would probably be most familiar with.

Well... The KA box bolts to an L-series, KA_RB_Gearbox_Overlay.jpg According to that the KA and the RB20 can overlay. SMT798B is KA SMT534A is RB And the RB20 and RB25 box are swappable between each other. The KA engine along with the SR20 and RB20 sit tilted to a different amount then the L-series though. Not sure if it is changed on the 25 and the 30. I would hold out for a diagram though as the internet can often be incorrect.

You have to bleed off enough exhaust that the impeller speed does not ramp up and build too much boost. First hand I know that a 256sx (which is even less efficient then the sx-e), has boost creep even with a 40mm waste gate on full open when it is in a mediocre priority path, a wastegate spacer has bad priority and if memory serves can only accommodate a 38mm waste gate. Only downfall is that you won't be able to make less power if you max out your waste gate. Research, look up other people's builds, see what makes sense to you and come back with a plan. I really want to avoid spoon feeding too much, we have a massive resource here would be good to take advantage of it. I will say, with a lower octane of available gas, high compression, non cross flow design you kind of have a perfect storm for knocking. You are going to have to address that. Up to you what path you choose and how much you want to spend. Forged internals at that power level might be superfluous if you have a safe tune. Keep in mind if you up the power you are going to have to think of the parts down stream, clutch, trans, half shafts, diff, etc etc.

Ah, gotcha. All there is for the CD009 is a couple examples of cars running over 1000hp or 800ft/lbs, but definitely over the stated rating. Would be nice to have an option for the high powered L's out there.

For a big hotside it won't matter as much as the exhaust will have somewhere to go, but with your desired short spool requirement that means running a fairly small hotside which means that it will cause a back log and restrict the exhaust. That and the fact the T3 foot print is already small means you are going to have some flow restriction as is. 20lbs on a flattop seems pretty high off the bat, not sure you can run that with california 91. Where are you getting your numbers? I am pretty sure the borgwarner turbo's don't need to push nearly that much in fact you would be over 400hp at 20lbs if memory serves. The 256sx makes almost 600hp at 20lbs at 7000rpm. Even I think the GT28 would be quite a bit over 300 at 20lbs if it is still efficient.

Would the Cd009 route maybe worth looking into? I know austin was planning on making adapters for them and they are considered to hold a fairly silly amount of power. I just imagine it would be pretty astronomical for a one off piece.

If it doesn't rain, then shaved drip rails make the car look pretty nice. Makes it look much more modern with blacked out chrome as well. Definitely personal preference there. I think the advice is solid from everyone. If it is a craftsman, who spent a lot of time and money and is selling the car at a loss to get onto the next project or on with life it can be a decent asking price, but adding up the parts and the unknowns, it does not seem to be the case, maybe worth a visit to gauge the fit and finish if that is what you really want. Maybe, it is making more power, I just recall a friend with a stockish rebuild with a bigger carb, headers, and maybe a cam making 350hp out of his 350sbc. It seems with upped compression it should be making more, but maybe it is conservative due to californian gas.

^That is way way too big for his goals. A wastegate spacer has horrendous priority and most likely isn't going to be able to fit a big enough waste gate bad for big and small turbos

Well, it isn't a screaming deal, but it isn't that bad. Depends on how much the seller is willing to come down. If the chassis is truly rust free and the floors replaced etc (which you won't be able to see very well with all the insulation up top), we will start him off with 3-4k (260z is not the most desirable). Body work depends on how well it was done, and if you like the molded in spoiler and color, the shaved drip rails isn't cheap or easy to do so there can be added value there is that is something you like. V8 engine swap, nothing spectacular, and for a 10.5:1 350 to be making under 300hp that seems a bit low. Maybe worth 1-2k to the right buyer. 4.11 LSD, I am not even sure I've heard of such a native setup, so if he found a 4.11 out of a 200sx and swapped in an LSD center section, there is some added value there. The question is how the axles were addressed. If it has CV uprated axles then that rear end is probably worth 1-1.5k. Concern is with the 4 speed you would be running it pretty high depending on the gear set in the transmission. Suspension, he seems to be a bit vague on the details. If it is sectioned struts with adjustability then worth quite a bit, I'm guessing though that the adjustability is in reference to the shocks at which point with lowering springs maybe 500 in value. The fact that axles, brakes, replacement hardware, bushings, etc haven't been mentioned makes me worry that you could easily have to dump 2-3k into the car with several hours of work before it becomes the weekend toy you are looking for.

Do you get a discount if you order from turbonetics? Why are all your selections from them? You are paying a lot for an old turbo with old tech. ~750 The SX line has extended tips so flows more air while maintaining the same size https://agpturbo.com/borg-warner-agp-s251sx-turbocharger/ ~850 with your desired hotside The SX-E line has so many improvements for that extra 100$ that it would be silly to try and justify not getting it. Still cheaper then the turbonetics turbo. https://agpturbo.com/borg-warner-s252sx-e-52-61-12709095019/ ~850 The GT28 would reach your power goals and spool quite quickly, these are usually used on 2L SR20's though so you would spool quite a bit sooner with a 2.8L, but most likely run out of puff sooner as well. ~775 Precision 5431 with a billet wheel http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=2304 The only downfall is that some of these would potentially flow too well and make too much power would require quite the wastegate. I'm guessing you are running a ZXT manifold so no native waste gate could make some of these offerings difficult to control.

I'm curious as to what you are looking for. The FSM has the wiring harness pretty nicely laid out. Start either at the fuse box or at the accessory and run a piece of string to get the correct length and cut it. Once you have routed everything harness it up. On the stock car from the factory the bulk of it runs along the passenger side and reaches over to the driver side for connections. The problem is the terminals. You aren't going to have the right terminals unless you pay a premium for NOS or reproduction terminals which means most likely reusing old terminals or pigtailing to the stock harness which defeats a bit of the purpose. I'm with miles, unless you plan on spending a lot of effort redoing all the lights and removing old terminals and converting everything to modern terminals or making tons of adapters, you probably don't want to start from scratch.