seattlejester

Way to take it in stride man. That would be a good turbo for your needs from a quick glance. Doesn't look like you would have too much room to grow, but the spool should be happening on the lower side of things which seems to be your bigger priority. I would recommend a look at the SX-E line from borg warner if you a bit of budget to play with. Their offerings are pretty substantial, a lot more efficiency on tap so you can run that same 50mm inducer wheel to higher boost levels before you start heating up the air. Curious what the desire for the low spool rpm was. 2k rpm is pretty much a touch of the throttle, do you want that instant response like from a bigger engine? If that is the case then this is all wrong as you are looking for a supercharger.

For anyone looking on the topic. Tank costs about 150-180 to "buy" (unless you have your own tank that you want to keep, most places will swap tanks out with filled ones so you never really keep the same tank) and about 70 to rent for the year. I ended up borrowing a tank from a supplier, he said if I could get it to him on monday he wouldn't charge me for renting the tank over the weekend, just have to pay for the fill. It was about 60-70 for helistar which is their helium, argon, co2 or what not blend. So I bought 308L wire and went to town. Stainless does require you to be quite a bit closer to your welding material, and it seems like it likes to go pretty slow or at least run with more amperage, other then that I didn't notice too much of a difference. The way the mounts were moved made it feel flimsy even with triple pass welds whenever I could, so I ended up welding in some mild steel reinforcements with the stainless mig setup. One thing to keep note and this applies to all welding is that heat really is a consideration. I had the gap for the bushing shrink enough to the point where the bushing wouldn't fit anymore, so I ended up hammering it back out. Afterwards I employed an all thread with some correctly spaced nuts to help keep the parts apart while I put in the reinforcements. Thanks grannyknot for letting me bounce my concerns and your advice.

Look up a compressor map and find a turbo that has a good efficiency island at a pressure ratio desired at 2, 2.5, and 3k rpm on I am guessing a 2.8L engine for the amount of horsepower you are looking for 35cfm from the sounds of it. There are formulas and calculators. https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/plotting_data_on_compressor_map Excellent walk through. Spool usually means when a turbo is making peak psi. A turbo that makes peak psi at 2.5-3k is going to be a massive restriction on your exhaust at higher rpm, unless you have a massive prioritized waste gate. If you don't learn to look at compressor maps you are going to be at the mercy of someone's recommendation and their interpretation of spool or the boost threshold.

Oh wow, way to go guys. I didn't even notice the frame rails in the back. Unless it is a lighting effect that appears to be a fairly substantial gap visible in picture 8 with only the smallest of tacs holding that frame rail in. That makes me really wonder what is under that seam sealer now.

Welcome to the forums. When you have two options, one is better then the other. One method cannot be bester over the other after all. I point this out because it is a forum rule, no option is best. There may be an option better suited for a certain situation to a certain individual, but best is arbitrary and not worthy of arguing over. As a general rule: if the welds don't affect fitment with a panel, it would be advisable not to grind them down. Some of those welds look quite boogery, which usually implies low penetration. That in turn means if you grind it down the panel can just come undone at the seam as it was a poor job of fusing the material. The quality of the job depends on how well the welds penetrated. A whole continuous bead will be useless if penetration was low and the panel falls off. Similar with the stitching method if the tacs are weak the panel can easily perforate and separate. The problem is it is difficult to judge a weld hidden under paint even more so under seam sealer. The visible beads don't give me much confidence though. Personally I used to like welding a bead all the way around, but it is very time consuming and has a very good chance of warping, that's how I did my car the first time, but when I had to cut it out it out to shift my floor it took forever to grind down all the welds. My current preference would actually be somewhere in the middle, about 1/2 an inch to an inch long seams with gaps, the gaps can be filled in with seam sealer to keep the joint water proof. Takes about half the time compared to filling in the whole panel, also introduces less heat if you move around, and as long as the penetration is good will hold just find. Second time I did it I stitched and seam sealed. So to answer your question, it depends on how well the panels are fused. The thing to consider is that cars do flex a bit. If you put all that heat and make that one part stiff, there is a chance that as that part cools or as it is in service it can pull at pieces that aren't as stiffly connected. If you can't weld then not much you can do about it unless you have the funds to take it to a proper body shop and have them have at it, but most body shops are more panel replacement places, not too many restoration places in service. As long as the second place you went to didn't use seam sealer to hide their work I would say the second place did a more favorable repair. I would say you should still seam seal the welds from the first place as it looks like it is fairly raised which means most likely pin holes are present which can cause rust to start forming if paint did not cover it well.

Depends on your definition of healthy for the v8 and if you plan on launching the crap out of the car. A v8 can make 170 to 600+ hp and usually similar if not higher amounts of torque with an automatic the shock load can be a bit less, but if you have a really grippy clutch on a manual, running drag radials or slicks, and running on sticky ground, something probably is going to break. My understanding is T3 shorten the axles and rebuild the cv joints with replacement pieces. It will handle power fine, just like the stock half shafts can handle power fine, but once you start abusing it or run around at angles bad for the joints it is only a matter of time. Neverdone has a pretty good point, the whole conversion kit is quite pricey, and swapping to bigger splined beefier shafts from a Q45, R33 GTR, Z32TT would be a small consideration to maximize the benefit of the kit. If you have any concerns I would spend the time to acquire the parts from one of those uprated cars in question. The only practical experience I know if is the guy with the 2jz 240z on smokingtire that said the 240sx axles couldn't handle the power from the 2jz and had to step up to GTR axles. He was at the 400hp mark IIRC.

Welcome to the hybridz. First check if it has oil. Depending on how frugal you are either drain the oil and replace it, or undo the drain plug for just a few seconds to get a sample. Inspect the sample for contaminants like water or metal debris. If it has debris, stop now you are going to have to do a whole check list to see how far the damage is. Either top off the oil or fill the engine back up with oil. Pull out the spark plugs to make the next bit easier as well as set them aside to inspect for damage. Get a breaker bar onto the crank and bar it over, if you need to know the rotation (clockwise or counter clockwise) find the timing marks on the timing cover and turn it so the numbers decrease. If you find any hard spots stop. That either means you have a nasty ring ridge in the cylinder or the timing is off or a broken valve is stopping the cylinder from rotating. If you don't find any hard spots, give it a few rotations. Take the valve cover off, look at the valve train for oil distribution, if it looks dry, give it another few turns. If the valve train is getting oil then great, time to put in the spark plugs and check for compression, if the valve train is not getting oil then now is the time to stop and consider if you want risk the motor as is or if you want to save whatever value is in it and replace the oil pump etc. Check the motor for compression by rotating the crank and listening for hissing from the valves as you rotate the head. Once that checks out now you can use the starter to do a compression test. Run a compression test to check for numbers. If a cylinder is low you can isolate the block from the head via a small capful of oil into the offending cylinder. If the compression goes up your rings are questionable, if the compression stays low looks like your valves may not be closing correctly. Engine bay shot would be pretty cool, those bob sharp racing valve covers are pretty rare if it has one.

You don't get an ultra low spool and top end power. Short of a sequential you won't get both.

If the mount has failed then it would be best to replace the lower mount before adding on the RT mount if you plan on running a factory style rubber mount on the bottom. The snubber setup will be fine as it basically replaces the limiter strap. Keep in mind clunking can come from other sources, so inspecting your mustache bar, axles etc would be a good idea. One source of a clunk that is missed fairly often are the control arms in the rear. If the bolts become loose that retain the bushing on power on or braking the entire control arm can shift forward or rear ward.

500 seems like a decent start, I wouldn't spend more then 1000 on it unless you knew you could recoup the cost. Turbo wheels seem to hold some value depending on style. I would honestly consider scrapping it after you pull the parts that are worth anything, granted ZX parts minus the front struts, rear axles, differential, brakes, calipers, engine, transmission etc aren't worth much.

Same a nice big garage would be nice or at least a nice deep one. Appreciate the advice, it has been a while since I've touched the stuff or welding The stuff I am welding is 7 gauge so I doubt I'll be blowing through.

I did find you get about another inch of travel on the plates if you invert them so the CX logo is facing the block and upside down. I'm tweaking mine, a spacer on the passenger side to move it over about 20mm and cutting and welding in the tabs in better position for the driver side.

Very solid piece, just something you may run into, you may have to shave the little lip in the tunnel near the bolts.

I am about 50% sure that I will be doing that, stainless wire with C25, unless the welding shop can cut me a deal on renting a bottle of trigas over the weekend or something. I have been so self sufficient for putting things together that people borrow my welder to do stuff, and I only had one welding buddy who moved earlier this year. I'll have to ask the welding shop if they have any recommendations, at the very least I can tac this thing in and have someone finish it off if I can find someone.

Goodness gracious, I just looked up the price for a bottle of tri-gas and looks like it is a world of hurt. I'm going to have to think about some alternatives here.

Given what we found out in this thread, I would make sure you get the taller mount so you can shim down. Granted I don't know too many people that make the RT style mount other then RT himself or Technoversions, so I imagine you got a Technoversions kit. The rubber piece on the the front diff mount is acting in the wrong direction which is the main fault. The diff pulls up as you go forward, eventually it will pull the mount apart, it should have a mount on top to fight the diff from moving up and another mount to support the diff when it is not under load. That is what the snubber does is it fights that motion of the diff pulling up and prevents the diff from pulling the bottom mount apart. This was done with a strap early on, but those deteriorate and fall apart very quickly on the underside of the car. What newzed means if I read it correctly is that he added very small washers that are the same size as the inner sleeve of the poly bushing to space the actual poly bushing away from the subframe that way the contact area for the bushing is much less. I imagine it had to be a series or at least two different size washers to keep the top bushing from being pulled towards the top. That would isolate noise with the trade off being that the mustache bar bolt is now encountering an axial load through the bolt more directly. Honestly with the size of the bolt that would be a very minor concern. I want to say there was a better example, but was one of the reasons I wanted to run all poly instead of rubber. Solid would be better to prevent movement, but would most likely propagate cracking somewhere down the line especially in our cars.

You are getting confused. The 27 spline and 39 spline are in reference to stub axles. These are the splined stubby axles that are attached to your strut assembly. The 29 spline output shafts are for the differential. Why are you looking for HD differential output shafts for the diff? That is one of the stronger parts of the equation. DSS does make some conversion output shafts for the diff, but not sure if there is much claim to their statement of stronger as I have not read as much regarding failure at the differential output.

I really don't recall there being any kind of twist. Some of the bars can develop a twist as that is the direction the force goes in once the wheels start to turn and if the front mount is worn or just the rear bushings are changed that can pull up on the mounts. What we need from you. 4 pictures. 1 well lit picture of the front upper diff mount 1 well lit picture of both diffs from the rear with a ruler for scale 1 well lit picture of the mounting studs on the car for the mustache bar with a square object like a right triangle to show the angle of the studs 1 well lit picture of both bars lying on the bushing with a ruler fir scale to the center mounting point Something is off in this situation. You are asking people to guess without seeing all the cards. Each picture will eliminate one of the possibilities. 1. Upper diff mount is causing interference 2. diff dimensions are different 3. mustache bar studs/bolts are bent 4. mustache bars are different Those are the four options and those four pictures will give us our four solutions.

They are aftermarket for sure. Not sure why they do it, but that company makes all of them out of stainless and I would even venture to say all of them are fusion welded so limited filler. The temptation is there to just do it that way. Turn it on max and just do what I need to do, but what you say is correct it is an engine mount and going half ass because I don't want to move a couple hundred pounds is lazy. If I had the room I definitely would make my own, I've done it before, but half my fabrication tools are on racks that are behind my jacked up car that I pushed far in to give myself some space to work with the door closed. Not to mention the engine is hanging via hoist in front of the car so short of pulling it back out I don't have a way of moving the car. I asked on a welding section in another forum and was told that apparently welding with non stainless filler wire will pull chromium and nickel from the stainless and cause carbides that will fracture the weld, I think the consensus was to at least use a stainless filler wire. Apparently using the regular 75% Argon 25% CO2 will only hurt the anti-rust properties and not affect the viability of the weld. Alternatively someone else said that it isn't worth any effort as all the stuff from ebay/china are not as advertised and without a decent analysis you couldn't take the material at what is listed and to just go ahead and weld it with whatever and keep an eye on it.

So long story short, I need to cut and reweld some tabs on my engine mount in addition to fixing a split. I intelligently managed to pile nearly everything onto my welder as I pulled the car apart, I have access to the bottle and the controls, but it is stuck up against a wall and my car is trapping it in so I can't easily replace the wire. According to the listing, the mounts are stainless steel. How bad would it be to weld it together with my current mild steel mig setup? I know I will loose the stainless property and I am perfectly fine with that, not sure why it was there in the first place to be honest.

L6 usually refers to inline 6 just for reference. So a JZ motor is indeed an L6 or I6 depending on what you are more familiar with. Honestly I don't mind it. I had Poly engine mounts on an L4/I4 in my FWD car and that literally shook the whole car and I absolutely hated them and I did change that back to regular mounts. On my 240z it isn't bad in my opinion, granted I have maybe 2k miles in the last 6 years on that car so not the best person to take livability advice from.

Look at that Xander filled out the list for you! Keep that in mind though saving money by buying an Ebay turbo or knock off turbo affects your reliability, they seem to be making them more and more genuine, but overall consensus is that they won't last more then 10,000 miles if they don't break within the first 100-1000 miles. The basic Megasquirt kit can indeed be had for that much, but that does require quite a bit of soldering, and that is quite a bit of precision soldering at that. I would definitely give the car a once over before you start planning your build. Having to pay someone to replace the floors or frame rails is going to suck up about 1/4 of your total budget if not more very easily. If your skills are basic keep that in mind. Write it on a banner and hang it. Use that knowledge to your advantage. Realize you won't remember how things came apart, or where things are supposed to go. Label everything, document everything, take pictures of everything. Do your own research and read a lot. There is so very much on this forum alone, and you can find different flavors on other forums like classicz, vicz, atlanticz etc.

I dig that, looking at the orientation of my friends E30 the thought did cross my mind.

Hmm you are just a wealth of knowledge, that makes sense though if it was originally designed for a transmission that hangs lower or at a different angle. I will say that the Technoversions mount is quite a bit taller. bj has 3.75 on his height while the Technoversions lists 4.9 on his. So maybe it moves it back into an unlowered orientation? Edit: Also found this little tidbit at the bottom. Acknowledgements: This style differential mount is based on a design by Ron Tyler, and consequently is often called an R/T Mount or RT Mount. The mount offered here is similar to the original design, but also incorporates some improvements by "Datsun Dave," with further refinement by TechnoVersions.

I think given our forum, the not nissan engine thing is pretty moot. That is pretty much the worst argument save for appealing to others who have that same thought. That isn't a personal attack on you Neverdone, I just had a very bull headed discussion with someone who wouldn't admit that the toyota inline 6's are easier to install then the nissan ones just due to their layout in a LHD car. In the end after raising all the points for merit, it boiled down to "it's a datsun, it should have a nissan heart" that is opinion man...factually not relevant. *Ahem* I digress, but Vq's also sound amazing, I don't know what gives them that hohoho sound, but it just makes me all giddy when I hear them. I was thinking that this would be a lost cause because of the need for a bell housing adapter, custom flywheel etc, but turns out there is an adapter kit to an R154 for under 750ish with a clutch so that just overcame a butt load of obstacles, granted you would still need to source an R154 which can still be a world of annoyance then a custom drive shaft and custom mounts. The benefit to a V6 layout is that it is compact. Great for cars like the MR2 that originally had an Inline 4 the V6 would be even smaller length wise. For the Z our engine bays came with an Inline 6 so we have almost all the room in the world. V8's generally make more power, are more plentiful, have more aftermarket support, and still sit pretty close to behind the shock towers. In options for the V6 we also have the VG30 which came in twin turbo form from the factory and the VQ35 and later VQ37DE which has an absolute ton of aftermarket support and both of these engines came with their own matching FR layout transmissions. There really isn't much hate for the V6, but an Inline 6 whether RB or JZ really is buttery smooth and have an absolute ton of support, an american V8 will have even more support domestically and most likely make more power compared to a V6, and if weight was your game an inline 4 would weigh less. Not much for it other then if you wanted an NA motor with more torque then a high revving inline 4, but wanted the weight distribution behind the shock towers. Bottom line is people don't do it because exactly the first part of what Neverdone says for reason 5 above all else. You can get basically the same thing done easier/cheaper/faster. With that said if your goal was an NA motor, you had a welder to whip up your own mounts, and you wanted an NA motor, but more torque, but low weight that is a viable option.