seattlejester

Yea a lot of inconveniences suddenly disappear or are not a factor if one considers the RHD origin of the car. Especially the zx turbo. Still fascinating they managed to fit all that on the LHD car. I completely forgot about the starter. Oil filter could be relocated, but just pipings from the peanut gallery.

Driveshaft dropped off, having it lengthened 2.25 inches. I measure it at 2.5 inches for the dust shield to be fully submerged, that gives me about 1/2 an inch in either direction as far as the dust shields are concerned and I'm pretty sure my shaft engagement was quite adequate the first time I measured it around. Also went to my local bolt supplier. Spent about $90 getting new hardware. Called the differential shop, the guy wanted $600-1000 to do a full rebuild. I think given that price I'll just run my home brew setup until something happens and either update it accordingly or put a aftermarket differential in my housing and swap out to regular zx axles. Doing a round of anti bind upgrades on the rear sway bar, throwing a rod link in for the sway bar and spacing the rear sway bar back 1/2 an inch with some aluminum spacers.

Still bummed out that the exhaust isn't on the passenger side, so much room for boost! Looks real good can't wait to hear it purr, injectors and the rest of the exhaust left?

Took out all the studs and added the backing plate...yea remember to do that. Mustache bar was indeed flipped. ~2.5 inches too short on the drive shaft. Called the shop, they said they would re-tube it for $200. Bummer, but better for the long run I suppose. Moving things around it also seems the front diff mount bolt holes don't line up exactly. Maybe this is what the seller was referring to regarding the early chassis. Going to have to lengthen the bolt slot to accommodate. Entire rear end is out, had to remove even the hangers to be able to hang the mustache bar for measurements and test fitting. There is a local transmission shop that looks at differentials. Tempted to see how much they would charge. Would be nice not having to drop it again if the back spacing or the torque on the front pinion isn't spot on. Planning on dropping off the drive shaft on Monday and picking up the proper bolts for the lower control arms. Calipers need to be repainted, and one of the lines look a little crimped. Tempted to cut it down and re-flare it while moving it to keep it from being bent again, but that could turn into a project itself and I would have to find my flaring tool. Also giving me a great chance to touch up some spots I missed with sealant and rust prevention. Oil is still leaking a good bit from the front, a small puddle of really dark oil after a few days. Oil in the engine seems pretty clean according to the dip stick. Beginning to worry that it might be the oil pan. That would be a blessing and a disappointment.

I agree, it should be the incoming intake temperature, somewhere in the charge pipe would be ideal. Drilling and tapping the intake works fine with some sealant. If you really want it to seal, then putting a bung on it is another option.

Well done sir, well done.

Wasted spark might seem strange, but the only way the wasted spark could detonate would be if you went thorough the entire combustion stroke without a combustion event (it would have already detonated at this point from the compression most likely). Lots of cars run in that format. Once again, the MS3pro is going to have lots of features and tons of room to grow, but it is going to require a lot more wiring to take advantage of those features which it seems like you won't be seeing any difference in. The reason I brought it up is that the price is nearly $1000 more then the lower end units. And given your modest goals quite overkill. You could spend the $1000 on a lot of other things. Then again, if you plan on keeping this ECU for all your future cars it is not a terrible investment as it will run everything without the need for drivers, granted MS is always changing and outdating itself so yea. If you haven't yet, I would throw an intercooler into the mix. I've seen numbers in the 200+ range without one, but still would prefer to see one, if you are against an intercooler I would like to see some meth injection at least. Blow off valve would keep the turbo flutter at a minimum. Electronic boost controller would help dial in the boost across the rev range and can be easily driven by megasquirt. Honestly I'd be tempted to check the compression on the motor and if it checks out, maybe reseal it and just run a modest boost increase.

That's useful feed back. I have the poly so it wouldn't cost me anything to swap them over. Although I fear some of the clunking is caused by the poly being loose. Seems there is a little bit of space that lets the poly shift. The tubes are from the BC coilover conversion kit.

I dunno why, but I read with fender flares. 15x8+0 will indeed fit perfect without fender flares.

Hmm then again http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4171 That kind of stuff is available. Not that I need the camber adjustment, but the material is right.

I thought with that style, they ended up adding a set screw to hold that original pivot in place as if it rotated at any time it would cause the arm length to shorten or lengthen. I suppose I could have a delrin bushing made up, but I've cracked a couple delrin pieces so I'm not sure if that would be the ideal component. I've seen steel sleeves that peaked my interest.

I got my setup for 300. Transmission I have seen go from 150-300 Engine I have seen go from 50-1000 depending on condition.

You would have to run really large spacers, 1.5 or 2 inch and with that small of a tire with that small of a side profile you are going to have some fairly large wheel gap unless you are slammed on the ground. Frankly it looks kind of silly. Maybe ok from a side profile, but from the front or from the back it is going to look like your car is on stilts. 15x7 with 2 inch spacer I think a 205 with a 65 profile or something.

I've got poly on the inner side, I couldn't quite figure out how to turn that into a solid bushing. Lots of adjustments will have to be made for iteration 2.

Mike, That is really good to hear. And goodness that is well executed!

Thanks, can't guarantee that, I guess I'll throw them back on.

As the title states. Are the backing plates needed for the rear stub axles? I pulled mine when I got my stuff powder coated. Noticed they were a bit dinged up from stud removal, is it worth having these guys in play? I kind of forgot them to be honest till now.

Care to share the size/vendor/part number? I imagine mcmaster carr. I've gone through precision, there's were real bad. Had to really wind up to slam the door, a friend had older precision set on his and they fit and closed great, I think he closed his car with one finger where I had to really wind up and slam it (even have the broken driver window to prove it). Talked to a tester of the manufacturer and he said the company was going through some major restructuring and were in the middle of a revision, but internal struggles made them just release product to keep cash flow so the quality and such went to crap. So I've heard. I've gone to kia weatherstripping. Car door closes real easy, but the seal is pretty mediocre, still find drops in the car if it has rained. Need a door and window adjustment, but I've thought it too light for a while. Any additional alternative would be appreciated.

Most cars even modern ones have the headlight circuit active without the keys. You can disable it by making the trigger pin on your relay ignition dependent. I've had to use the feature once when I was younger and phones were not ubiquitous, dark night no street lights (grass lawn used for parking at the firework show), went to go grab something from my parents car, dropped the key on my way back before I hit the door lock on the remote. Went back to the car and flipped the headlights on to find the keys, then turned off the light and locked the door with the remote.

I can definitely see that, since for one thing your rearward rod end wouldn't have any play in it and your front one has a much shorter arm so it would deflect less. I wonder if on yours it would pivot backwards, granted the strut housing is right smack on top of the rear one so maybe not as much a concern. I think someone had a similar design as the one I ran except they used a solid bushing up front and two rod ends in the rear. I guess I won't know until it is on the car. Thanks for taking the time to sort me out, was pretty startled after I put it all together.

And new zed's original comment still stands. Run the suspension through it's travel. If you are too lazy to do so, then at least run the control arm through the travel. Things I am seeing that are binding include aftermarket brake lines, sway bar, rubber bushings, end links. If you get certain items in an unfavorable position, they will hold up the suspension or keep it from coming down. A picture would indeed be nice especially in comparison to the stock suspension. These springs should in theory be a tad loose/shorter/easier to install. If you had to compress them and fight them the entire time to try and get them on, then they aren't the right spring.

I see, I guess I got mixed up with 240zdan's recent thread calling for a pillow ball mount in the back as well. So the strut top is fixed and keeps that plane locked. I'm going to have to look into more of the difference between the front and the rear toe link, I fear I'm still a bit lost. I will pour over your thread and the thread you linked once more.

If hoke is still making the adapter 350z transmission should be able to hold that much power.

So I am coming into this realizing I really don't know very much. First off, finished product: Powdercoating place did real well. Something I am struggling to understand however is the forward to aft movement. Video for reference. http://s639.photobucket.com/user/jesterjin/media/55A5E42F-991B-43B4-9EA8-D9BE273EB65A_zps0fzomrxj.mp4.html?o=0 With the axle and the strut installed is there enough rigidity in those two axes to prevent that twisting motion? I think TTT arms prevent this by having a fixed distance between the toe link and the A arm. Am I missing something here? Or is this how it is supposed to work?

Can't find the leak. It is coming out pretty steady, but I can't actually find it. I've checked from up top, but the only real leak I see is the oil cap seal seeming to leak a bit, but that is only under running conditions. Maybe it is the block off plate will have to revisit. Just want to finish this part out. Torqued everything and put the car down. I made sure to keep the height pretty high so I could slide the jack out. Pulling it out I was quickly reminded why I was doing all this as the rear end chattered and chirped and clunked as I made a 3 point turn to put it in head first. Spent a 1/2 hour trying to get the bloody front end up the car up on ramps. Seems like the rubber on the ramps either pooped out or decided to stop gripping. Had to jam a piece of pipe against the wall to keep it from slipping so the car could get up. Raised the car and found something interesting. I had routed my exhaust to be a semi side exit, exiting right in front of the rear wheel. This in turn caused everything on the passenger side to be much rustier then on the driver side. Planning on pulling the rear end and all the suspension components tomorrow. I'm a little iffy on the differential. Part of me says to just put it together, and the other part says to get it rebuilt by a professional and have them set the backlash and such. I'll give a shop a call next week and see what they can do. Called the drive shaft shop and they said they would re-tube the drive shaft for ~200. That is a very expensive mistake on my part. I know I should fix it, but staring at it, kind of makes me wonder if I should. Bah just probably the fumes. The temptation is also there to take out the tail shaft and install my shifter relocator and perhaps even pull the transmission to inspect the rear main seal. Granted I will have to do that when it is time for a clutch so I'm not sure if it is worth the effort. Lots of parts look rusty, I'm tempted to just buy the aluminum uprights and such and just not have to deal with it. That's a good 600$ just for pretty so I'm not sure I can justify it given my recent secret little purchase. Started to work on some of the pieces I need for the rear end. I put my control arm together an to my dismay, I had ordered a standard length bolt, as in a bolt that would work for a car running factory control arms. Another thing to address and another silly and fairly expensive mistake. Coated the rear hubs in some chassis black. I'm kind of regretting not having these powder coated given how quickly my factory set seems to have rusted. I'm going to have to think about something else on top perhaps any recommendations? I'm using VHT chassis black, I had heard good things, but seems like it doesn't hold up all that well. Also managed to get the stub axles started. Having a press makes this really really really easy. Didn't have to pull the studs, didn't have to freeze the stubs and boil the bearings, everything went on with minimal resistance. Found out the driver side axle needed a deeper groove which I finished a couple days ago, the passenger side axle still needs the clamp ends hammered down. Getting ever so closer!