seattlejester

A light wrap of teflon cleared up the noisy bushing on my daily. On the datsun I lubed everything really well, and haven't had problems yet. I do mean I lubed everything though. Inside of the bushing, the outside of the bushing, the inside of the sleeve, the outside of the sleeve and the mounting location. My chassis creaks now but the bushings are pretty silent.

My only thought on why they manufactured the piece that way is to allow for either extra adjustment or maybe even to take up slack when the half shaft is indeed compressed, or maybe simply for ease of removal. I still believe given that the strut mount and the LCA mount to fixed locations on the chassis, and the only piece that can compress even a slight amount is the strut the relationship is actually quite rigid. A more in depth way of looking at it would be a triangle. One side is the strut with the spring, one side is the chassis (strut mount to lca mount) a fixed length, and the last side is this buckling joint. Now if we put forces on the triangle, then the strut will always be counteracting gravity. Given the wheel is mounted on the outer fulcrum it would provide an outer force. The spring compresses. Now for an ideal layout the bottom of the triangle (the buckling point) would be relatively level to the pavement. So the strut is adjusted until lca is level. A sufficiently stiff spring is employed to keep the lca from changing this relative angle too much and cause radical camber changes, so in turn one other side becomes rigid. So now you have two rigid sides with the tire that is pulling up on the corner fulcrum, what happens? The LCA gets pulled out. At up the force vectors and the system cancels out. Car sits as it should. For the system to buckle, there would have to be a net force that would "compress" the LCA causing it to buckle, not sure where such a force would come from. I do recall a discussion of the ideal design and some more advanced terms were used to indicate that a fixed point to fixed point would not be an ideal situation (like the stock setup, TTT, or others) as that would introduce bind in the system somewhere. The end result was a separate adjustable link in the middle Found it! This is amateur bench racing at best. Haven't tested either setup, although I hope to copy myron's in the future.

It took me a while, but I see where you are coming from. I don't think what you describe is plausible with a loaded suspension. With the car on the ground, the force vectors would be pointed down and away. The car would want to push towards the earth, and the strut would want to bow outward. So the arm would be "pulled" taught. Even during cornering, the only way for the arm to buckle would be if there was a sudden force perpendicular to the arm towards the differential with the suspension unloaded, and given that the car is still on the ground and the suspension actually being compressed via the weight moving to the outside, then to the back under acceleration, the LCA would still be "pulled" not allowing the arm to buckle. And there is also the half-shaft which would prevent an abrupt shortening.

Hmm depends as most repairs. Quality, location, workmanship, time etc. The top one could just be a bubble, if lucky the metal is intact. Sand paint Treat metal with rust inhibitor Body fill to flat Primer Blend paint to match other panel Clear coat That would be probably a 150-300 dollar repair, you could definitely sand the paint down yourself and possibly treat it, but if the panel was rotten you would need a welder to come put in a patch, so depends on how confident you are. Depending on your paint, one may need to blend the panel in to match the paint, and that can be an art form in and of itself. The rear is a bit more serious, if you are lucky the crack that is showing is a bondo crack, but that looks to be rusty. Sand down Cut out all traces of rust Fabricate a replacement piece Body fill to flat Primer Blend in new paint Clear coat That would probably be a 300-500 dollar repair. Granted if you brought the car in, they may charge less since they would be doing two areas and would require the same tools pretty much. This would definitely be a job for someone with welding skills and the ability to smoothly fab and put in a piece. Unfortunately to your proximity to the ocean, and a likely sea breeze, it may be very difficult to inhibit completely. The fact it is under the paint means it is either rusting from the inside out, or the PO or whoever painted it did not do a very good job treating/sealing the panel. If you are lucky, those are the only spots, and as long as the paint is maintained and the undercoat does not chip, you should be fine as long as rust is not hiding elsewhere. Short of removing everything and getting it professionally sealed it would be hard to stop completely. There are some items on the market that claim they stem the progress of rust, though I am unsure as to their effectiveness. The best you could do is make sure any scratches are touched up quickly and any edges are carefully maintained. Make sure your seals are good and water does not stay anywhere it does not have to be. Maybe wash your car a little more frequently to get all the salt off once in a while.

It might help if you share the method to your madness, might make more sense as to why you are trying to make your life much more difficult. Regardless of how you got the parts, in "stock" form you don't need an intercooler, blow off valve, turbo timer, you can easily sell those and acquire parts that you actually need. So if your method to your madness is the lack of funds, that won't really fly. ...On an L-series, you don't need to pull the timing cover to remove the the oil pump and thus the shaft, it all slips out of the side/bottom. The distributor just pulls off the top with 2 or 3 bolts. It's about as hard as an oil change, difficult part being the checking of the timing, which can be easily done with a helper. If that is too tedious, you may want to hold off on the whole turbo thing for a bit. Not trying to bust your balls and not saying you can't do things the way you want to, but people who tend to take shortcuts tend to know the shortcuts, their drawbacks, and either can afford or don't care about the risk, or take alternative measures to avoid the risk.

Once again kind of a strange route you are going. To answer your question, yes there is some leeway built into the stock ECCM so adding a bit of boost, will not be the end of the world since most older EFI systems tend to run quite a bit on the rich side, so you could get away with low levels of boost. You have megasquirt so that is not really an issue. And yes you could mechanically dial in some retard in the distributor and essentially lock it in place by removing the vacuum source, that's how turbocharged carb'd hoon cars run where the minimal amount is spent and a budget for a boost retard cannot be entertained. You would have a harder time starting and driving off boost though if you did it that way, or you would have more risk once you hit boost, with that style you get one or the other really. Yes you could run whatever pipe size you wanted and adapt to fit the openings, the smallest diameter will be your flow restriction though. Smaller diameter pipes do mean it will take less CFM to pressurize the system, but it also means if you move up to a bigger turbo that can flow more you will slow the turbo down. We are talking big numbers for this to happen though. The 3 inch intercooler may just make it more difficult to route pipes since you would either have to get silicone 90 3 to 2 inch reducers or run a straight reducer and run a 90 2 inch pipe. My intercooler is tiny and it barely made the bends, I can only imagine how much more difficult a 3inch outlet would be to play with. You will want the extra capacity of the turbo oil pump as well, since the NA pumps run really quite low when the engine is not revving. Really really weird to do it the way your a planning though. Wait a little longer and get the parts you need. At this point you are a man with a prada shirt and no shoes. With that low level of boost, you don't actually need an intercooler, and unless you like to drive around like a maniac and shut the car off right after, you don't need a turbo timer (I believe MCM actually covers this), and you really should not be messing with a bleed valve until you have a way to control ignition at the minimum. If you have limited time to take advantage of space or something of that nature, you can just do the hard stuff and mock up or even everything, make sure everything fits, and then just disconnect the intercooler pipe until you get the money for the really necessary parts.

I would have to purchase one unfortunately. If I were to get one, I would be testing the hall effect sensor to see that that is reading correctly yes? If the sensor was missing the teeth, then it would be limited to either the sensor itself, the sensor proximity, or the crank trigger wheel. If the oscilloscope showed a consistent signal, then the problem would be more directed towards wiring and the megasquirt?

Depending on the gauge it will have a plug to the harness, just remove the factory gauge with the harness and cut the wires off partway to make yourself a pigtail with the correct plug. ^I think your problem may have to do with the headlight selector switch/blinker assembly. My selector box disintegrated when I looked at it funny. I have a 3 way switch now to select between beams. Much simpler I think.

You could pull the studs out if you were so inclined. Granted removing everything will give you a chance to clean some things up and inspect the u-joints that could be in question. rebekahz's line of reasoning isn't bad. If you are not under load, then the diff should be hanging on the washers, and the ride should still be somewhat smooth, a worn u-joint would make diff vibrate a bit which would only be amplified with worn bushings. I vote you pull it off, take off the axles and drive shaft while you are at it and inspect all 3 while you replace the bushing (both front and rear), unless the half shaft/driveshaft/front bushing has been recently serviced, then I would try to extract the studs to save the extra work.

He already went with the springs so that is kind of a moot point, and as long as the spring and strut are matched, the handling characteristics will still be there. Iogr has a really good suggestion, the 240z top insulators should drop you about an inch compared to 280z insulators.

Jumpers in correct position Upped dwell to a suggested 3ms, no difference, even went as high as 3.5 no difference The miata guys are running toyota cop to redline in wasted spark, so do not think that is the problem Lowered max RPM to 7000 to see if cutoff shifted to 3500, no change. Only 3 things left to try: Swap coil packs Add resistor to R57? Confirm polarity

This is my 4th time trying to post, I think my wifi is kind of iffy at the moment, so cliff notes. So I had hopes that I never changed the fixed value so the spark advance was constant, no such luck. Correct box was selected. Added a 10000uf capacitor, didn't seem like it changed anything Used new timing gun with a spark plug wire in the COP to the spark plug and reading off of that wire. Got a good signal with the expected double advance and double rpm readings. Adjusted the btdc value for the trigger wheel to bring it in line with what the timing gun was reading. Only a tooth or so off, still no change. I have noticed an occasional miss every few seconds during idle. Either a dwell setting, or even at the low RPM's the ECU is having some small type of trouble. Another thing to note is that 4500 is half of the max rpm I have set. I will adjust it lower tomorrow and see if that somehow plays a factor. Kind of at my wits end, not sure what is going on. Pretty sure it is ignition related, if it was fuel I would expect going lean, not rich. Thoughts: Check jumper JP1 at 1-2 Check jumper J1 at 3-4 Turn pot R56 all the way counter clock wise, then turn 2 turns clockwise Turn pot R52 all the way counter clock wise then slowly start turning clockwise Check dwell setting Check max rpm capability of toyota cop Test max rpm by lowering it to a lower level to see if it has effect Try swapping out cop with other set of cop Rising edge vs falling edge? Any suggestions would be great, really scratching my head here. mark 9.zip

Look below

I think I figured it out, once again something quite daft. We shall see in a few days.

I really don't know maybe the picture/angle is misleading, but it looks alright to me if you turned the wheel back to center. Yes a pillow ball camber plate should bring you down in height, although I am unsure if there are any on the market for the stock sized spring perch. I know there was talk about machining a piece to replace the stock insulator, but if what johnc says is true regarding polyurethane being too hard on the mounting studs, I can only imagine a solid bushing would be much much worse. Maybe time to get the dremel out for the fronts? I cut my front ones from the top, and secured them at the bottom so they actually don't have to be set every time even though I cut I think more than 1 coil.

I really should have gotten the jim stim board, I really should have gotten it a while back, would have really helped figure things out. I have this hope: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104879-car-wont-rev-past-3000rpm/ I threw my cheap timing light away that made me think all the coils were going off at the same time, and just received a nicer one in the mail today. If the problem is as the individual above found, then the timing light will tell. Symptoms are very similar, feels like a hard rev limit, everything else feels fine. If that does not work, or even if it does work, I think it is time that I invest in one of those for any future trouble shooting.

Tabbed sensor ordered and installed. Setting adjusted in megasquirt to adjust for new mount location (distance to missing tooth). No dice, seeing more above 5k, but reliably only up to about 4.7k rpm. I took it for a drive, the car pulls, and pulls hard right up to the 4.7-5k mark and then just kind of stops accelerating. Using analyze live, I can see the ECU thinks that the car goes from 4.5k down to 700 which really indicates that the sensor is loosing the teeth, but this sensor has been proven to go up to 19,000 RPM. As suggested, I essentially sat on the throttle, and turned the center pot about 5 turns after zeroing it out to no avail. Will edit with the tooth and composite logs. Thoughts: Not getting enough fuel. I do have a bit of wonky settings by having a resistor box in line to low impedence injectors. If this was the case, I should see the AFR lean out as I approach the problem area, AFR actually goes towards rich, and then when the limiter is hit, goes pig rich. Spark problems. Couple things come to mind here. I think we have hammered out the wiring now, so just a matter of some small things. Spark plugs could be fouled, just a possibility that occurred to me, could this cause a hard RPM cut? I don't think so, but then again I don't have much experience. The coil packs are not getting enough time to recharge. Just some simple math. Miata guys use these pretty regularly up to 7000rpm. I am running a wasted spark setup so essentially they have to fire twice per 4 stroke cycle, thus in essence they are firing at a higher rate, could I just be hitting the limit of the coil packs? If it is a charging issue, maybe a capacitor as suggested may help with the recharge rate, does this line of reasoning have any merit? Can the wrong timing value also cause this issue? Mechanical problems. I have heard of instances where engines refuse to make power/refuse to rev past a certain point due to an actual mechanical problem, in such cases can it be a hard cut? As in at exactly xxxx rpm the bearings start spinning and thus engine refuses to rev? I am still really leaning towards some kind of setting problem with how the megasquirt determines engine speed. Just feeling frustrated, I mean if it was a diesel that would be great, but the fun part is in the higher rpm range, so this just really bums me out. Appreciate the help as always.

The problem in the past has been that it shows it is available, but after the purchase it is usually canceled or delayed indefinitely. Do you physically have it in your position? If so that is great news!

That is just a general procedure for a good patch repair. Mine only ate through the first layer, just the skin. My patch was just a square, not sure if I have any pictures.

I had rust in that exact same place as well. For a patch. Cut out the piece Flatten piece Draw outline with a thicker sharpie Cut on the outside of the sharpie line (gives you a couple extra mm to account for the die grinder you used to cut the piece out originally) Cut out piece Bend piece using hammer and vice Fit piece Bevel edges Weld on the hotter side to get the weld to sink in a bit Grind down Seam seal Primer Paint Be proud of something no one will ever see

Lots of work being done, that is the style that just replaces the stock top hat, no slotting or welding required correct? Please tell me how they turn out!

Jeez, 4.44 is super high top speed of 110 with the short transmission? There is a specific thread where someone swapped in an R160, if I remember it was pretty much bolt in, I think the parts were taken from the 510, the R160 wouldn't be able to handle a lot of torque though.

Yes, if you are using the 280zx tank and sender the ohm rating should be for the 280zx fuel sender. The fuel sender does not have anything to do with what engine you have.

So made some progress today. The newer version of the hall effect sensor came in. The first iteration I made was just a temporary solution. It really lost a lot of integrity when the wheel kinked and hit it and bent the thin metal. At the time, time was a concern so I just added some reinforcements and moved on. This time I really wanted to make a decent mount. I went over to a friends place who let me use his space to make up some pieces I needed. Mocked up the piece, tacked it in place, then made sure the wheel had enough clearance and put a brace and a weld on it. Please excuse the welds, I was working in a small storage locker without a real power supply, I was stealing power from a light socket and it was all just fiddly. Basically speed to high, amperage too low, and at first the gas wasn't on. If there ever is a Mark III it will truly be a piece of work I promise . I had not expected to get so far so I did not bring my laptop, but I wanted to see if the car would catch and the car ran. It was missing a bit which was slightly perturbing, but now that I think about it I did move the sensor quite a bit. The ECU will have to be retold how many teeth btdc the actual sensor is at. Once that is determined hopefully I can break the 4k limit I have been experiencing, and put it to the local exhaust shop for a once over and some exhaust work.

You can adjust acceleration enrichment, but you really can't adjust pedal sensitivity unless you have an electronic throttle. It sounds like you are trying to fix a mechanical problem with an electrical solution. A lightened flywheel will make it pretty difficult until you get used to it. Same as an aggressive clutch, you kind of trade off smooth actuation with ability to hold more power. If you are not making a lot of power you may want to look at going back to the stock clutch or at least the flywheel, I could just let mine out and as long as I wasn't facing a steep hill, the car would start rolling on its own. That was only after I made sure my linkages made for a smooth throttle actuation and I adjusted my clutch pedal though.