CruxGNZ

I don't think I understand your question. Are you asking if anyone has swaped in a clutch type LSD, viscous type LSD, or a Quaife LSD for thier open carrier? !M!

That's one heck of a mess! Just be glad chunks didn't punch through the tranny tunnel and hit you. !M!

Cool! I really like how the graphics on the side look like they are tearing off and flying away. !M!

Figures... it IS from Wisconsin. Way to be different, but !M!

Hahahaha! !M!

Believe me, I'm trying! I just have some hurdles I need to jump over before I can finish. Plus, I'm having some family problems that need attention before anything else. !M!

Well, when I did a search on this I found: This This This and This Not to much information and I guess our search function is not working well. Otherwise, if you do a search on just "Jeep" you get five pages of results. !M!

Mike, buddy, pal... you're my new best friend! So... you gonna hook a brother up or what? !M!

Scott, your picture turned out good. I was looking at maybe welding a bead along both sides of the "caps" that hold the steering rack in place and grinding the beads down to the correct thickness to keep the rack from moving. Pretty simple, but it will take some trial and error to get it right. Playing with the steering rack earlier this evening, this sucker does move about 3/16" in both directions! That is really a lot in my books. !M!

Step one - Click on Search. Just kidding... what are you looking for? Maybe you are spelling what you are looking for wrong. Sometimes parts are refered to as a few things, like a bolt could also be called a pin by some, and a lower control arm can also be called "LCA". I find it easier to go to click on Search, then click on Advanced Search, that's if I know exactly what I'm looking for. This yields better results and less posts to read through. !M!

Scott, I recently noticed the same thing. I didn't even know the rack was moving around untill I heard a slight squeeking when I was pushing my Z and turning it when the hood was off. I am going to look into it aswell, but I would like to see what you did exactly. I just can't picture it. !M!

I haven't made an update in a while, so I figured I would. Well, since I seriously underpayed my taxes last year, I got nailed with a few grand that I need to take care of first before I can continue with my Z. So, there goes the GNZ funds for a little while... BUT, there has been a few things that I have done, and can do that don't cost much. Like the wiring! Yes, the fun began and I loved every minute of the "knee locking" "back hurting" work. Every wire in the engine wire harness has been shortened about 3.5 to 4 feet for each sensor. Now, that's a lot of freakin' wires! The harness is a Caspers universal unit that has every wire labeled. So, now the harness is custom made to my Z. I still can't believe how much wire I took out of that thing. I also custom made an aluminum wire loom that I attached to the drivers side valve cover. It turned out pretty trick and matches the engine well. Here you can see just how much wire I had to cut out of the thing. I had to re-route the harness, because I wasn't comfortable with the harness going through the firewall so close to the downpipe. I moved it right next to where the throttle cable goes through the firewall. Before I had moved the wire harness, it was able to stretch to the rear hatch area inside the car! In this picture you can see the aluminum wire loom I made. It has a 3/16" slit underneath it to push the wires inside. This picture shows the mess of wire and the newly installed JDM fender mirrors. Almost done cutting, soldering, and heat shrink tubing everything. Look at the rats nest of wire. And here is a picture I took today. It looks really disorganized right now, but most of it has been done, except for a few wires that I need to wait on. You can see where the wire harness comes through the firewall. I just need to think of a way to cover that chunk of wires. A few sensors sprout from there, all the ground wires come from there (which you can see the ground box mounted on the left side of the firewall), and the big starter wires too. It's just a mess that I want to look nice, but don't want to cheese it up by wrapping the heck out of it with electrical tape. I'll figure out something. Also, if you haven't seen it, I had my 6 point roll cage installed too. Click here to see the thread about it. I'll be installing Brownbread or B-Quiet, or whatever the name of that stuff is called now. Ordered 100 square feet of it. So, I'll take a picture when that's done. !M!

Thanks for the information John! I love reading that stuff. !M!

I tried a reverse lookup and only got this information: "The phone number "(646) 388-4715" is a New York, NY based phone number and the registered carrier is Cingular Wireless Llc - Ny. However, due to number portability, some numbers have been transferred to a new service provider other than the registered carrier." !M!

Thanks Dale! I'm damn glad I threw this powder coating question up on the board. !M!

That car is from around here. !M!

What temperature do you bake the powder coating at? I guess I'll have to bring this up to Centerline and ask them about doing this. What would an alternative be to make the spokes a charcoal grey color? I don't want it flaking off in a year, so most rattle can paints won't cut it. !M!

It's not a Ford engine, but...click here !M!

I'm looking at upgrading my wheels. I found some nice Centerlines that I like, but they are all shiny. Is it possible to powder coat just the five spokes on these wheels? Here's the wheel VENTURA If it's possible, I'll see about getting it done locally, or get an Eastwood kit and an old oven and do it myself. (I'm going to see if I can fit the 9.5" wide wheels in the back ) !M!

Whew... okay, now I feel better. !M!

Replacing the bushings is a good idea if you're in there. Otherwise if the bushings are bad, you get a lot of toe in under acceleration. He's already there, so may as well. !M!

Whoa! Wait a minute... see what acetone would do to the plastic first. Test in a inconspicuous spot first...if there is one on the covers? Please don't mess up you covers on my account. It was just a suggestion. Maybe wait for a better reply... please. !M!

I would like to say acetone... but I'm not sure if it will eat the plastic and make it foggy. Honestly, I would just leave them on, or put them back on if you took them off. If you screw them up trying to fix them, it's a $50 whoops! I did that when I tightened my headlight cover bolts down to much. If you really wanted the "no gasket" look, just sell the ones you have and get another set. !M!

If you already installed the seals, then leave them be. You will probably damage the covers removing them. If you are unlucky like the majority of us, you will see dirt and debris inside. Even the morning dew will make them fog up and have dirty runs from water inside. !M!

I'm with John on this one. The seals don't work well. I use mine without the seals also (looks better). If you haven't installed them yet, just make sure you don't really crank down on the headlight cover bolts, because the plastic covers are prone to cracking. Just snug the bolts down. !M!