CruxGNZ

Holy crap she's taking a leak! Definetly NOT WORK SAFE! !M!

It was not a pain to re-install. You only loose sight of it for like a foot and a half or so. I'm wondering why you are having difficulty removing your wiring. I have all my interior panels removed, because I installed Brown Bread (or Be Quiet Ultimate, whatever the heck it's called now) and it was very easy to see how everything comes apart and where it is routed. !M!

Mini tub that sucker! Keep the stock fenders untouched. Beautiful deep purple car the way she sits now, don't mess it up now. !M!

I was the only one there... !M!

Funny as hell, but it seems like he's on a bungee cord or something pulling him up and out. !M!

HAHAHA! !M!

2. Will I need to remove my spare tire well? Briguy280Z mounted his tank without removing it, but maybe that only works on 280Z's. mas280's pic's looks like it wouldn't fit without removing the spare tire well. On my '73 I had to remove the spare tire well. 3. Any modifications needed to the fuel pump/sensor unit (from what I've read, I will need to rotate it approximately 180 degrees). I can't find the post, but I seem to recall someone posted making modifications a while back. You can rotate the lines to which ever direction you need them. You'll see when you get the tank. 4. Wiring information/diagram. I don't want to buy another FSM just to figure out the wiring for this tank. Simple, one plug for fuel pump, one for sending unit. 5. Fuel Gauge - I already have an Autometer Speedo, so I take it there is an Autometer fuel gauge that would be compatible with the built in GM sender? Yes. Get one that will work with a '01 LS1 TA. 6. What's the best way to connect to my existing lines. I would like to use my existing supply line (appox. 3/8") and the existing vent line (approx. 5/16") as a return line. I'm using these now with my stock tank and ZX fuel pump. Maybe I shouldn't use my existing lines and just replace them with new lines? From what I have recently read, the stock lines are capable of handling up to 500 or 550 horse power. I'm just running new lines. Since you have a regulator on the fuel rail, you must gut the regulator inside the tank. It's not to hard I think I just used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Once you pull the unit out of the tank, you'll see how everything works and where everything flows and to what. Make sure you read that Racetronix link I posted (in the link above) to understand how the fill bucket works. !M!

Really?.... Sooooo, where does one go to find out this information? !M!

Call up Mr. Numbnuts's work and tell them how he is driving. Tell them where you saw him and what you saw him doing. If he's dumb enough to do that crap with the companies number on the side of the truck, he deserves to get nailed. !M!

So, how did you blast them without wrecking the finish on the "lip"? What kind of tape did you use? After my powder coating aluminum wheels thread, I was thinking of how to tape the wheels off. I was thinking of using some 3M painters tape on the inboard and outboard sides of the wheel, then put a layer of HVAC foil tape near the wheel centers to avoid abrasion from blasting it or from sand paper. How did you do it? Now I'm thinking that painting the wheels centers with DTM epoxy might be the easiest way to go about this. Please let us know how it holds up. Well, if we don't hear from you for a few days, we'll know what you're up too. !M!

Damn! That looks REALLY good So, how did you go about painting them? !M!

I call it the "Douglas Fir" special. I've heard such remarks from this wing as, "Dude, your car has wood!" and "If he throws an Iceman intake on that yo, nobody will beat that thing, dog!" Buy it now at Jegs for $124.99 or just go to your local jobsite and take a few scraps for free. Hell, I'll even make you one for free. This way, when you pick it up, I can slap you in da' face for being such a freekin' moron. !M!

How cool is that?! I was really straining my eyes to the point there was tears coming out trying to read the article. Do you think the rest of the article could be posted, a little bigger perhaps? !M!

More pictures here . In the link in that link, the owner of the car comments. !M!

Just tap it up with a mallet. It is wedge shaped. Make sure to put the nut on the end of the threads before you hit it, so you don't mess the threads up. !M!

What a way to get hurt, just listen to the plywood zipping through the air! Click here !M!

Holy crap, you're buying that Z? (you lucky bastard) That is an amazing car! !M!

I clicked on mine and it says, "You have 10 Reputation points." So people have thought at least 10 of my posts were of some kind of value EDIT: Glenn, I clicked on yours to add to your reputation and now you have a green dot. Things aren't so grey for you anymore !M!

Greg, If you want, you can check out my Z, I'm in Brookfield. I have the 280ZX rear disc brake setup installed. You just use the calipers and rotors off your donor car and some brackets that I think you can get from Modern Motorsports or you can try to find the Maxima bracket. I was fortunate enough to be able to order the Maxima brackets from the Nissan dealership, but this was years ago. I think there is a couple pictures of the rear brake setup in my Yahoo album, just click the link in my signature. !M!

*sheilding eyes* Nice house! !M!

Depending on what year Z you have, the stock proportioning valve is located in the rear like Jon said, or it will be on the firewall like my '73 had. I just gutted it and installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. !M!

Can you beat this nicely done Cadavic? ...this is all I got, so now I'm out Click here for more pictures of this steaming pile. !M!

!M!

I hate that website! Everytime I try to view a video, it plays the video, then pauses it about 5 seconds in, but the audio keeps going. Very annoying! Is there some was to actually download the videos off this site? Does anyone else have this same problem when trying to view with Mozilla? !M!