CruxGNZ

Here ya go 240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180) 240Z 70-73 MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) -non U.S. 240Z 71-73 Auto (3.545) (R180) 260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180) 260Z 74 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280Z 75-76 (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT 4 sp. (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT 5 sp. (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 All Auto (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT 4 sp. 2+2 (3.364) (R200) 280ZX 79 MT 5 sp. 2+2 (3.700) (R200) 280ZX-GL 79 (3.700) (R200) 280ZX 80 MT (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 Auto Coupe/2+2 (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 MT 2+2 (3.900) (R200) 280ZX-GL 80 (3.900) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 Auto all (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 81-83 Turbo all (3.545) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 MT (3.900) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 MT & A/T (3.700) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT & A/T (3.54) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT & A/T (3.900) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT & A/T (3.70) (R200) Note Turbo's: 1) After 4/87-89 only (3.70) Clutch type LSD 2) 88 All white SS used a (3.70) Viscous Coupling LSD 3) LSD units came with finned rear covers Additional comments: -Viscous coupling LSD requires special splined half shafts -84 through 87 R200's can be used in earlier cars, but require modifications. They aren't direct bolt in swapable to 240/260/280/280ZX's -84 through 89 R200's used a 12mm bolt in the ring gear. Earlier R200's used a 10mm bolt in the ring gear, so you can not swap gear sets with the older R200's Side note: -85 and 86 200SX Turbo has the (4.11) (R200) REMEMBER that this is the way the cars came STOCK! !M!

That is just an awsome idea! Will be trying that soon . !M!

Turbines are awsome! It would be cool to put a Allison Rolls Royce 250 gas turbine in a Z... now that's my idea of being different I even went as far as pricing out what the conversion would cost me at one point. Brad, look at these links if you think that is cool. http://www.turbokart.com/home.htm http://marineturbine.com/home/default.htm (check out the super bike and the S-10 they converted ) !M!

lol... I don't think your Z will starve to death if it doesn't get 400hp. Hopefully she doesn't bring that up. !M!

Auxilary did that with the motorcycle lights and posted pictures here. Looked really nice. Try searching for his posts. !M!

Guy, If you stuffed that engine into your car, then an exaust system will be a piece of cake. I thought doing an exaust was hard untill I helped put a 3" exaust system on my buddies GN powered '64 Skylark Special. It was really easy and fun! He bought the mandrel bends and a couple lengths of pipe from a place in Milwaukee and we just simply measured, cut, and welded the thing up. Only took a few hours to make it. You should give it a shot. It's a lot easier than many people think. !M!

I am a Carpenter and never even thought of using wood for the mold that the plastic will be shaped on , I guess it's just the way I think, heat and wood don't go well together... unless you're with a woman . I think I'll just shape some oak for the mold, I got more than enough scrap laying around. For the rear piece, I am using fiberglass. If the mold holds up, and the pieces turn out nice, I may use carbon fiber, but after I tint the clear plastic, you may not even see it. I appreciate you guys giving me idea's but I'm not sure what the luan can be used for. Unless you think I'm going to make the entire rear panel (the black piece that is riveted to the body) out of fiberglass. Sounds like a neat idea, and it would be pretty cool to make it out of carbon fiber. After taking it off to get at the tail lights, it really wouldn't be that hard to make at all, maybe sometime in the future, but for now I just painted the rear panel satin black. Just so I didn't confuse anyone by my first post, I'm making just the two tail lights. One tail light will consist of a front piece (plastic) and the rear piece (fiberglass) and bond them together to make a new tail light with the LED lights inside them. I like to be a little different than everyone else, and I have yet to see a new spin off of the old design. I could easily paint the fiberglass on the inside a shiney (sp?) chrome and use some red torpedo lenses on the inside and make my own Alteza's but what's original in that? I'm going to make the oak mold for the plastic tonight and see how it foms around it. I'll take pictures. If it works well, the rest is a piece of cake 8) . !M!

So, you want an engine that has 350 c.i.d. (cubic inches of displacement) that will just bolt right in? !M!

I was bored today and I had this idea for a new tail light in my head for some time now, so I figured since I have the stuff to do it, I would finally give it a shot. I have some trailer LED's that are oval in shape and about 2" wide by about 6" long. Here's a picture of what I'm going to do. The picture was done very nicely on Paint, but something happened and it turned out realy crappy, so I just drew over what was left of the picture... stupid computers . The fiberglass part I can do, mounting the LED's will be simple, the only thing I think there will be a problem with is forming the clear plastic piece. I have floral foam and plaster to make mold from. I'm not sure if the floral foam will take the temperature in the oven, so to be on the safe side, I was going to shape the foam then take a mold of it using plaster, then take a plaster mold of that to use for the plastic piece in the oven. After taking out the tail lights on my Z, I finally realized how complex the curves are on the plastic. Now I'm not to sure that this 1/8" plastic can be formed to the plastic mold in the oven. If you are wondering, you cut the plastic piece a bit bigger than the mold and lay it on top of the mold, then pop them into the oven and slowly melt the plastic to the mold. You can make your own headlight covers this way so I hear. Here's my question, does anyone know if this clear plastic can be shaped into the factory shape? Will this plastic yellow over time from UV rays? I found the stuff at my local hardware store, it's called OPTIX Acrylic Safety Glazing. Under the warning label, it says "Acrylic sheet is a combustable thermoplastic. Says it will only ignite from an open flame. Should I be worried? After the clear plastic is formed, I am going to spray it with some plastic tinting spray paint stuff. You can get it in craft stores. It will be lightly tinted kinda like the way the tinted headlight covers for the first gen Z look. This will be done for looks and to try and hide the rubber gromet that the LED's sit in. Once the LED's are installed and the clear plastic is formed and tinted, I will bond the two pices together. Then I will drill holes so I can mount this new unit in the same factory location. Your input? ...Just thought of something else I could try. I could make that plastic piece pretty shallow, still will have some curves to it, so it should still have some depth. Then I can bring the whole unit out so that the flat part of the plastic is almost flush with the metal tail light panel. I think that might be more feasible. Does anyone understand this? !M!

I'm a member of P.E.T.A. People Eating Tasty Animals !M!

Hmm, maybe he meant http://www.car-part.com.... !M!

How did you see what junkyards in your area had a differential? I went on carparts.com and can't figure it out . !M!

The only one that is on my list to modify somehow that is considered plain looking is a Mazda Millenia S. That car has some real potential for a daily driver. Just needs to be a little lower, add some performance wheels and tires and that should make for a nice looking ride. Not to mention the kid hauling posibilites of the supercharged engine ...not that I have any kids, but as you get older you start thinking of that stuff . !M!

That's pretty wild! The guy has very a nice Z. !M!

Not unless you have a 4.2 liter engine under the hood . !M!

That's why I put VW headlights in Look in my personal gallery to see them. I like those halo headlights, they're pretty neat looking. !M!

Around Wisconsin?! Yeah, right! Every road is crappy!! Congrats on getting your toy run'n and roll'n As for your exaust, you have a PM. !M!

What do you get when you cross Power Rangers and Mad Max? .... Do I win? !M!

I hope Derek (GNZ) doesn't mind me talking about his car, but his Z is the only one I have seen that is putting some serious power to the ground. He has sub frame connectors and a 4 point roll bar. I saw his 240Z run straight as an arrow doing 10.50's at the track. He has MANY, MANY passes on that car and as far as I could tell, no stress cracks and the body lines were even. !M!

Jim, Same thing I had to deal with. I put the bigger master cylinder in my 240Z also and had to adjust the rod out a bit. At first I went out to far and the brakes dragged some but still worked. It's really trial and error to get it just right. Adjust it, put it back on and feel the brakes, repeat as necassary... To adjust the rod length, look at the tip of it, there is a cone shapped nut on there. Just use two 7mm wrenchs (if memory serves correctly) and move the cone shapped nut and back it off or turn it in untill you have the pedal feel you desire. I would say move the nut out about 3/16" from the original location and put the master cylinder back on, then bleed the brakes. After that, then play with the rod length, so you don't have a squishy pedal to deal with. About the spacer between the master cylinder and the booster, I say leave it in. My car doesn't have one, so I don't even know what it looks like. But the way you describe it leave it in and adjust the rod out. !M!

Jim, I am going to assume that you are putting the new struts from your parts car in to another Z correct? If so, then you already know how to change the rear struts, they are the same as the front and yes they are of the cartridge type. Here's what you do if you want to leave most of it attatched to the car: - Take off the three nuts inside of the car that hold the assembly to the strut tower - Disconnect the sway bar if you have one - Disconnect the half shaft - Remove the brake line (may not have to do this, BUT make sure it is not kinking the brake line in any way if you don't) - Pull assembly out so the top is outside of wheelwell - Get a spring compressor and compress the spring - Remove the isolator nut on top of the strut assembly and pull off the spring - Get a pipe wrench or something that will take off the gland nut (the nut at the base of the shinny rod from the strut cartridge) - Pull out the cartridge Believe me when I say that for some people it is not that easy, just click on my WWW link in my post here. Sometimes over the years metal things get fused together by water and rust. That strut pin is a pain in the @ss! It should come out with a little cussing, some heat, and penetrating liquid. Worse case is that you have to cut the pin out with a sawsall, have the pieces pressed out and you have to buy an expensive (~$25-30) pin. You should really get yourself a service manual, it makes things a little bit easier. !M!

They have a Yenko in there? Yenko what? Also, from the previews, it looked like a lot of the footage was CGI. I would go see it if there were actual stunts done, even though the first one had a lot of green screen and CGI too. Still waiting for a movie that has car chase scenes of the likes of "Ronin" and "The Borne Identity" and have a good plot and have some hot almost necked chicks Gota have the chicks, I mean, when there is boring dialog you have to have something to look at !M!

What? Just because you have the turbo's doesn't mean you now have all the necessary pieces to make an engine go fast. You need to do some more research and come up with a better plan, instead of assuming that you can slap two turbo's on any motor and it will work for you. Just about nything will fit in the S30 body, there was even pictures of a red twin turbo SBC Z car posted a few weeks ago. Hey Cody and David, do you remember Liquid Television? Everytime I see Milton, I think about his first appearence on MTV years ago. !M!

!M!

"Nice car", "your car is cute","is that an RX-7?", "what the hell is that?", and the look and head nod thing are pretty much what I get around here, but for the first time ever a very old lady came up to me (she was a fossil) and said, "Is that your white Datsun?", I was taken back because she knew who made it, BUT she went and said, "it's adorable." ... adorable?... I wanted to say, "lady, it's not a fricken kitten". Adorable... *huff*.... !M!