CruxGNZ

$25 bucks, that's it? Man, you guys got it easy. I had to fork out $140 for my collector plates. Plus side is I never have to go in for emissions and never again have to pay for registration. The only down side is I lost my personalized plate ... *sigh* !M!

WOW! Nice find. Love the looks of that Z . I always liked the blacked out trim and the cleaned up rear end. So, what are you going to do to the exterior to make it the way you want it? Personaly, I think it looks killer just the way it sits. !M!

Yup, 10 pics. !M!

Not all guys that are into guns are like that. Guns are your last resort period! You just never tell anyone you have it and hope you never have to show it. You don't carry a hand gun because you think the idea is pretty badass, you carry it for protection against people that carry a gun because it's badass, they are the ones that cause the problems IMO. You're on the right track, but please don't go waving the thing around as if to say, "look what I got, don't mess with me!". !M!

Cool! Put that in my favorites folder for when I get my own garage. !M!

This will help you out in the future. Yours is either a 3.54 or a 3.90 IF that is the stock rear end. 240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180) 240Z 70-73 MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) -non U.S. 240Z 71-73 Auto (3.545) (R180) 260Z 74 MT 4 sp. 2+2 (3.36) (R200) Here's proof 260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180) 260Z 74 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280Z 75-76 (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT 4 sp. (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT 5 sp. (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 All Auto (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT 4 sp. 2+2 (3.364) (R200) 280ZX 79 MT 5 sp. 2+2 (3.700) (R200) 280ZX-GL 79 (3.700) (R200) 280ZX 80 MT (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 Auto Coupe/2+2 (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 MT 2+2 (3.900) (R200) 280ZX-GL 80 (3.900) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 Auto all (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 81-83 Turbo all (3.545) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 MT (3.900) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 MT & A/T (3.700) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT & A/T (3.54) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT & A/T (3.900) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT & A/T (3.70) (R200) Note Turbo's: 1) After 4/87-89 only (3.70) Clutch type LSD 2) 88 All white SS used a (3.70) Viscous Coupling LSD 3) LSD units came with finned rear covers Additional comments: -Viscous coupling LSD requires special splined half shafts -84 through 87 R200's can be used in earlier cars, but require modifications. They aren't direct bolt in swapable to 240/260/280/280ZX's -84 through 89 R200's used a 12mm bolt in the ring gear. Earlier R200's used a 10mm bolt in the ring gear. Side note: -85 and 86 200SX Turbo has the (4.11) (R200) REMEMBER that this is the way the cars came STOCK! List was taken from Zhome and modified. !M!

Oh yeah? Well... !M!

Bobcat! I can see this turning into one of those "Tastes great!... Less filling!" comercials !M!

I get dibs on the first set! !M!

Just take one of your spindle pin nuts to the hardware store and match that nut up to a metric bolt and see what size and what pitch that bolt is, then you will know what what size and pitch die to get. !M!

I'm in the market also. Waiting for the day to come when you say we can PURCHASE YOUR PRODUCT! The stock brakes just plain suck... !M!

Lewis, You have mail. !M!

In my experience, if you use a Bobcat for anymore than 2 hours, it isn't fun anymore, it just beats you up. The upside is you go to bed feeling like you had a massage. !M!

Old fart . Yyyup *stretch* ahh..... glad I don't have to do that anymore, the Bobcat 773 not only makes short work of jobs like that, but it's fun to operate . Got well over 800 hours on that sucker now . !M!

Tim, What happened to the JB Weld, did it not cure correctly for you? What was your use for the JB Weld? Let us know. I figured it would be just fine, but now you got me thinking that maybe the fuel fumes aren't letting the stuff cure or something. I've never had a problem with JB Weld so far. !M!

You can just stick some JB Weld in the tip and then crimp it. Should seal just fine. !M!

Who needs car wash, just use a vacuum cleaner! I think it looks alright, I guess. It's different, I'll give them that. !M!

If it is a turbo, then it should be a LSD with 3.70 gears. Good find if it actually is the very hard to come by 300ZXT LSD. !M!

Click on this link to find out, http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential7.htm !M!

Got to How Stuff Works and type in "differential". This really cool web site will show you how certain types of differentials work, and well, just about anything else you want to know . I can go to that web site and just putz around on there for almost an hour . !M!

The lights are aftermarket for a VW Jetta. They are not just a bolt in. A lot of work went into making an adaptor to fit these lights perfectly inside the headlight bucket AND use the stock Datsun headlight adjusters. The picture shows that the turnsignal is also a running light, but it's now just a turn signal. The lights that were in my Z before were stock headlights (dim, yellow light), so I really don't have anything to compare these lights to, in brightness that is. I do know that the H4 light I have is 65/100 (if memory serves correctly) and hooked up to the relays they definetly light up the road. Turn on the high beams and it's daylight! I haven't hooked up the fog lights yet, but I have the switch and all the wiring to do it, so hopefully I can hook them up the next time we get some decent weather around here. I tried to take some pictures of the lights at night, but my camera just doesn't take a good picture. Before I switched to the LED turn signals, you could barely see the turn signal at night with the headlight on, but now it shows up real nice. I do have to say the lights look pretty funky , I mean when you are driving down the road at night, you look at the vehicles behind you and at the vehicles coming at you and identify which make and model it is by the headlights it has... well at least I do , now I've stepped out in front of the Z a ways at night and I can't tell what the heck it is by it's headlights 8) . Jeromio, you need a resistor with these LED's or you would fry them with around 13.8 volts from your car. Each one that I bought can only take a max voltage of 2.8 volts. If you run ~13.8 volts through something that can only take 8.4 volts max (the three lights together we're talking here), then most likely it will not work anymore after that . Here, this will help you out some http://www.theledlight.com/technical2.html About those LED bulbs, there was some talk about those in the "taillights" post in the Paint/Body forum. I'll have to go over there and read up on it again, but from what I remember, those LED replacement bulbs didn't work that well. The light from the LED's were the brightest looking at them straight on, and the reflector patern on the plastic lens is designed for normal bulbs with the light being visible almost 180 degrees, so the LED replacement bulbs only had a small bright spot of light visible direclty behind the vehicle. Oh, I was refering to the brake/running lights. BUT, don't take my word for it, I'm just going off memory, which isn't the greatest . !M!

I actually just made my own LED bulbs tonight. Well, one of the turn signal bulbs that came with the whole light you see above burned out, so I went to a auto parts store to look for a new bulb. Turns out that after going to 3 stores, they do have the same size light but clear, not yellow and only in a 4 watt bulb . So, wanting a brighter turn signal anyway, I went to Radio Shack and picked up some 5mm yellow LED's (2.8 max volt/30mA/1600mcd) and since I was going to wire three in series I picked up the closest single resistor (because space was limited) I could find for the ohms I needed which was a 220 ohm/ .25 watt. Just soldered the three LED's together, next I soldered the resistor in and then soldered this to the bulb socket. I was just able to fit the three LED's and resistor into the hole where the old bulb went. This looks and works great! The only problem now is I want to do this for all my lights , all the other lights just take too long to light up completely. Oh yeah, the cost was around $10 for both turn signals. If you're handy with a soldering iron, then you can make your own LED lights to your own specs. You also have to remember that when purchasing LED's they do have different viewing angles, and since you will be using these for a vehicle, try to get the widest viewing angle you can. !M!

Damn you're good! !M!

Hmmm...black chrome !M!

Forget the assembly question, I didn't read ATL's web site good enough. I was stuck on "DO-IT-YOURSELFER" and "build your own metal container (drawing supplied)" If you don't mind me asking, how much did the ATL well cell cost you? Thanks for the info . I would like to know about the NHRA rules also. !M!