Ed260Z

Your going to need new rails, and a frame shop. Uni-bodys need to be nice and straight, to handle any kind of power.

Sounds like you've done just about everything you need to do. You probably won't need the roll bar to stiffed the chassis, but it wouldn't hurt. If you decide to get a bar make sure it's a weld in piece, a bolt out won't do much for you.

Hey Q have you fiqured out what you plan on doing? From your post I can tell your starting to get aggrivated. Just my suggestion here, so don't get to mad. Put the manifold back on Ebay, I sure you'll get more for it now since it looks so sweet. And for now go back to your original plan of using all the stock turbo components. Would porting the stock exhaust manifold help at all? I'm still in the process of building my swap, in my head, and I've noticed that all of the new manifold that I've seen push the turbo(s) out too far. What I realy liked about that one is that the turbo is mounted on the bottom. I preffer a tight mounting set up. There comes a time when you just need to stop . Step back and let it go. Get the car running, and then find a setup that you like. Besides I'm looking forward to some more write ups on your swap. So lets get going.

I've done a Maxima rear caliper with 280ZX rear disk on my 260Z with no porblems. I'll be doing the front Toyo swap in the very near future, and will be upgrading to an early 280ZX master. I'm assuming the the Max and 240SX cali sould be about the same, so maybe you have another issue beside the prop. valve.

I think that there is also a difference in the # of coils. The Stock coils have 11 turns, while the Tokico are 8.

I'm not building a show car' date=' but I do want to update the car as much as possiable. And the front of the S30 deffinately has more issues than the rear. But I haven't seen any modifications that I really like yet enough to open a disscusion about them. I've seen the Corvette IRS and the S13/S14 IRS mod done on the S30. Of the 2 I liked the 240SX the most. Why? Because I always heard that the 240SX was a great handling car. But there are a lot of open questions as too whether or not this swap is an "upgrade". And johnc asked one of the most important questions yet.

There are a few system you can buy that will do that for you. But if you ever plan on useing this car on the street I would keep the booster for a lot of reason. I can live with no power steering, but no power assist brakes. A race course is a controlled environment, the street isn't.

Willwood also makes a reverse mount M/C with remote res. I don't see anyway you can mount the M/C anywere but the firewall. Mounting it under the floor will give you ground clearence issues. And from what I can see there is no other way.

I got my Tokkico HP struts and springs off Ebay at a great price. The combo cost me less than getting the just the stuts from MSA. But I'm not that happy with the springs. It dropped the car to low for my taste. The front cross member is only 3" off the ground!! I hear a lot of good things about the guys @ AZ, and they use this forum. Same with MM.

Not to diss, but why would you want the turbo to stick out the hood? If you did that I'd get a nice coffe can to use as a muffler! Anybody want some RICE.

I've had more than a few Z's over the years, 72-78 models. The 72 had the early mount. And my 73 had the later style mount. I can't remember what month it was built, so I can say for sure if an early 73 had an early mount. BUt Datsun was good at makeing mid year changes. At most the early mount was around for the first 3 1/2 yrs, and the later was out for at least 5 1/12 yrs. I think the best meathod of mounting the RB tranny to the S30 is to make a new mounting point in the Z's tunnel. My plan is to use the mounting tabs of the Skyline, and weld them into the Z. Based on the pics that I've seen the GTS tranny mounts at least 3" behind the S30's. That ,IMO, is a lot of pressure to put on 30+yr old welds, and the mounting tabs. It seems to me that that would be a definate weak point in the swap. I would rather see a "swap kit" that includes a weld in tranny mount, that would properly locate the mounting point in the S30 tunnel. Since all of the S30 tunnels are the same it would be the only way to make a "universal" mount.

The pics aren't showing right now, but I'm pretty sure it is a RB26DETT. And the guy says he took the motor out of a GTR.

If there is a choice I would change back to the SU's. It apparent that he is still new to Auto Mechanics, and the Webers can be a real bear (Even to the experienced guys) to work on. The only way to learn is to have some fun, and sense of accomplishment from what you did. I'm not saying that after a week or 2 reading about, and playing with, the SU's you'll be an expert. But it will be much easier to get the SU's close to the right settings. I'm not saying to get get proffesional help when you need it. And it does take me longer to do the work in my driveway than if it was done in a shop. But that can be a good thing since I take my time and make sure it's done right. (I'm not getting paid by the job) To answer the question on this thread; I would say that the answer is a big NO!!!!!! But that's not to say that the shop won't try and take advantage. As a joke I once told someone (Names will be with held to protect the innocent) that the car needed it's Flux Capasitor Relay Coil replace, and that it would run about $800, but I would see if could be done for less. And to my amazement I was asked if could be done the same day. When they came back @ 5:30 to get the car they where ready to write me the check. If I wanted to be a complete SOB-JO I could have taken their money, and they would have thanked me for it. The moral is if it doesn't sound right, or you think you heard it in a movie, do some homework and don't be taken in.

The name of the co. that I was thinking about is Lokar, but they don't make what you need. I found this by surfing the web, and I think that this is what you are talking about. http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/master_cylinder_systems.html It's designed to fit between the frame rails of a body on frame set up. But if yor doing a full cage I'm sure that you can make it work.

Back in the day I was a mechanic (Just long enough to rack up a $50K Snap-On bill) at a Mom & Pop place that worked on every make and model car that would come through door. The owner was good at trying to find info on the older cars that came in so that he wouldn't be talking out his A$$, but there where still situation that you still couldn't keep the customer happy. The moral of this story is that the big chain shops are not set up, or have the info, to work on these old cars. And most of their Techs are green peas that where born in the late 80's. Lucky for your the Z is a fairly easy car to work on, all you really need are a few work shop manuals, and forums like this one. The best part is you don't need to know how to work on all the other cars out there, you can "specialize" in your Z. Not to mention all the money you will save if you do most of your own work. For instence I was feeling a little lazy a few months back and after re-doing my entire suspesion I needed an allignment. I never replaced the outer tie rod ends since I didn't want to mess with that with out a machine, and I told them to do it for me. They had the balls to tell me $175 per side plus $50 for the allignment. I mean come on it's a 15 min job. ($350!!!!!!!) I said forget it and did it my self. If I had to pay a shop to do all the work I've done so far I would have spent nearly 5 times as much!!!!!!!! I would rather buy more parts for my car than pay someone who probably knows less about the car than I do.

The only sujestion I have would be to call Modern Motorsports, and get the correct lines. They are not that expensive, and the brakeing system is the last thing I'd want to "Jerry Rigg".

The link was in my first post. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96050 He did a good write up on his swap. I see that this post has turned into a IRS suggestion box for some reason. But many have said that the S13/S14 IRS is a compromise, of ride comfort and performance, so are these others. And I would assume that the level of fabrication required to make these other systems work maybe more inlvolved that the Nissan. True a Double Wishbone IRS would be ideal, but this was not indended to be a suggestion box. I wanted to discuss the merrits, and drawbacks of doing this type of swap. Since I'm about a year or so away before I start to actually modify my IRS I could allways open up another thread on doing a Toyota, Corvette, Mazda, Jag, ect...................... The possiabilities are almost endless, with enogh imagination. With that said I realy appreciate everyones comments and suggestions, but can we keep it on the subject. Thanks, Ed:twisted:

I'm also hoping to recover some of my cost by selling the some of the Stock Z parts that I have. Like the SU carbs ect.....

That will depend on if you have a early or late 260Z.

If you want 16" rims in this style you'll need to go with Panasport. But be prepared to $pend a lot more for these bad boys.

You'll need 225/50's if you want to keep the stock tire height. I don't think you will have a great selection of tires with a 215 size. And all the 215's I found where more $$$ than the 225's.

245 would be way to wide for a 7" rim. They would buldge out to much. I would stick with a 225 if you want a wider tire than a 205.