280zNHChris

I plan on doing everything myself except the uni-body (unless I make a "pregant" addition to my oven). I will probably ask another coater to do it. I'm just messing around now. If I change anything I'd just strip them down and recoat them. I didn't use acrylic because it chips easier and it's on the outside of the car. I can sand it down whenever, so no hurry for that now, too cold.

From the website: New 70-73 Datsun 240Z *((--replacement--))* under floor frame rails. *((--Replace--))* those rusty frame rails with these custom fabricated rails. These are two piece assemblies that connect the front frame rail section to the rear frame rail behind the seat. Great for high HP or V8 conversions. I can ask him for you as I haven't done it myself yet, better yet e-mail him and he will respond. john@baddogparts.com

I used NIC ultra black chrome and NIC clear vision clear. I went heavy on the both, could have been a little smoother. I can sand it but would rather have the protection and not have to do tons of filler, sanding, etc. Hood is next, I got some lab metal to use as a filler for a couple dings in the front. The doors will be a pain to take a part but I want to do them also.

Today was a Z day at the shop. After I did the airbox I decided to finally coat my 73 240z Cowl & Inspection lids. I blasted them all down clean and coated them in Ultra Black Chrome & a thick coat of Urethane clear powder. It is actually shinier and deeper in person, the oil cap is lollipop purple, camera always makes it look blue. My goal is to coat the whole car. Little steps...

Baddog stopped by and dropped this off to be done. I took the filter gasket off and saved it and blasted all the paint layers off of this. It has the 3 stock wing screws also. I was psyched the way this came out so I thought I'd post it. This is the best shape one I've ever seen, no rust. If anyone is looking for a new close to stock color airbox give him a call.

I think the powder & ceramic coating(inside & out) would add a few HP Looks awesome Pete. Seeing Pistons' and Petes' car has got me primed to tackle a Z myself, I hope I can come even close, both your cars came out awesome.

I'm down for one. Any one else? Don't want to waste the winter with the car in limbo.

I powder coated the intercooler a candy black/brown.

Wanted to bring this up one last time. I can't fnd info on them. I want to powdercoat them but I don't know if the paint blotches on the springs mean something. If anyone knows anything about these I would appreciate it. Spring rate and mainly are they lowering and will the gr-2's work with them. Thanks

Thanks guys. Pete - I got this as a combo deal w/ the throttle body and rail and intake for a good deal. I used this one as a template for the one you gave me and that one is all shaved and ported, just need to tig weld in the holes and coat. I will probably do that one the same color/clear combo. Scott gave me 4 of the 450cc DSM's so I got another 4 off e-bay cheap. The fuel rail I did in a candy blue to blend in the injector color. I coated this intercooler and was going to use it in the car but I want one that exits each side now, this has never been installed 3" inlet/outlet

Getting ready to start the work of adding an intercooler, edis, ported maifold, 240sx TB, Fuel Rail w/450cc DSM, Megasquirt and R/T mount. Got some coating done, all I need now is a good intercooler.

Ask Z-ya in NH what he paid. He just had a guy soda blast his 240z top to bottom he was very satisfied, I checked it out last weekend car looks nice.

Looks like a metallic bronze(or rootbeer) with a thick urethane clear.

Actually I should say it doesn't have the AN fitter part but the exact same baffling and same pan so it can be used with stock oil pump.

Baddog Parts just dropped one of those oil pans off to me and I blasted it clean yesterday. Ask him if he knows where they are from. His has the same gated baffling system but is a little different layout, pan looks identical though. I will post a photo tomorrow when I get back to the shop.

Looking for 2 dsm 450cc blue top INP-009. Let me kow what you are asking. Thanks Chris

Ya, I powder coated his airdam to match. That's a sweet Z.

I recently got a 73 240 with a 74 260 motor with dual webers and was messing with the carbs and trying to get it to idle and drive without pumping the gas and did a couple drops in my garage and laid these 2 patches. When I jacked up the rear and spun each tire the other tire didn't move on either side, unlike my 2 other Z's which each tire turns opposite. Any chance there's an LSD in there or is it open and will go single real quick? Thanks Chris

I thought you were a pyro from team fortress II

Bad ground.

Maybe candy red paint like you said but not candy red powder. Too bad you saw a bad example of a coating job.

Race one's come powdercoated, I don't kow why people think it will be any different. Red Candy powder does not dull, red candy is a tinted clear BMW clear does not "dull". I have stuff out there over 2 years old. I have coated cages for people and they haven't gotten any grief. If it was powdercoated steel I would feel safer for rust protection around the seams of the welds than paint.

That really makes no sense. In N.H. you don't need a title if the car is over 10 years old, it saves alot of hassles. just a bill of sale, get 20 day plates for $10 and drive it home or call AAA for a haul.

Didn't say color, just coated. The clear is so much stronger than a paint clear I will make a video sometime and show people. Powder if done right doesn't "chip" or "flake " off because it is baked on a blasted profile. I coat 16 gauge wire so people can twist it all around and it doesn't flake off, that is a big selling point. That is why springs are coated, the don't flake with the flexing of the spring. It is like a rubber paint coating, it is almost impossible to blast off and not warp the metal(if it is thin). The funny thing is in the article $1800 is high to them but I asked a painter how much to paint my Z and I almost $hit myself. Also in the article powder can "bend" in the air and get in places paint can't because the powder is charged by the gun and the car is grounded, it goes to the most negative area first and you can see the powder curve as it is drawn into areas that are uncoated. Though the farady effect can be a royal pain for deep recessed areas.

Wow. BMW powdercoats the new 3 series. They go through UV lamps for curing instead of a conventional oven. The reason it is not common is because it has to be heated to 350 min. If my oven was a little bigger I could do a whole Z. I just got another 73 240z and was planning to do everything but the frame because of size. Bought sight unseen because of no rust and the fenders are fiberglass DOH!!! Only epoxy powder is damaged by UV and it isn't used much. Since I can't do frames I'm not pimping myself, just trying to pass on correct information. IF I had the money and a bigger oven I would powderfcoat my car without question. I should make a video of me blasting metal with paint on it, the paint flies off, powder not even close. It is far superior to paint for protection and you can add flakes, pearls, etc. I will be doing the Z's some time and will start a thread when I do. I might do the whole 72 240zt since I am upgrading that to an intercooler (powdercoated), megasquirt and EDIS. My doors, front fenders, hood and everything but the frame I can do now and will start once the snow falls. I have had 4 calls for frames to be done, all by guys building rods. My 78z is the copper metallic stock and I made a clear with copper flake and it matches almost exactly, I did a spare gas flap to test and it came out very close to the original, I will tweak the formula a little more. One caveat like stated is that you can't "touch up" the coating because it doesn't blend in, but my supplier can match any powder and make it a paint for touch up. Good luck.