linluv84

Call ARP. I'm sure you can get the one you are after. If they don't cooperate, order one from the dealer...

Are the coil boots the same as Z32?

Its in the Orange, CA area, usually one of the last weekends in April. The official dates/location should be announced on MSA's website in the next couple weeks. Check out SinCityZ.org, we usually drive there as a group from Vegas. I will only be getting started on my swap in the first week of April, so wish me some serious luck on getting done in time for the show as well...

How about meeting up at MSA 40th Anniversary 2010?

Awesome! How did the pickup turn out?

Dang, you work fast! Did you get more orders yet?

That certainly wouldve been interesting. Guess I couldve extracted the oil through the dipstick tube. Can't wait to see how the pickup turns out too...

Looking good!

Awesome work Z-ya! I especially like the fuses and relays you included. I'd rather pop a 25c fuse than fry an expensive ECU. Can't wait to put it to use

Searched around and couldn't find any definitive info. I see that many people are using high flow aftermarket pumps to match their high hp builds, but what is the basic requirements for an RB25det in stock trim? Is a bosch ZX replacement pump sufficient? I've made 220whp on e85 with this pump without starvation issues, so *in theory* it should work. Just looking for some hard numbers and experienced advice...

I've seen guys drift on SR gearboxes with 400+hp, I dont see how I'll be able to stress it on 225 tires with a stock RB25det...

Looks amazing! What all did you to to dress it up? Looks very stock, but uber clean...

Same logic I was thinking. I'm going to try to go with an RB20 trans for my swap...

Can't wait to see what you guys are cooking up! Any chance at pre-release teaser pics? With some recent developments, there is hope that I might be able to fit one into my budget...

Still available? What does this use for a trans mount? Edit: Just realized this is an old f'ing post. Info about the "Rick Wong" setup would still be good though...

Thats insane! Great job!!!

The motor the Z33 should've had! At the rate they are going, Nissan will be releasing a 450Z for 2015...

Something along these lines, but for an RB, would be perfect: http://www.arizonazcar.com/pan.html

Those are AWESOME prices considering the work and talent you put into them. If my current geographical situation wasnt keeping me from taking a pan and pickup to the post office, you would already have a package and paypal on the way. My thoughts were just a way to make pans completely from scratch and the possibility of doing aluminum pans. I still have hopes of getting a 200zr pan from somebody upgrading to the McKinney pan, but I have a feeling that people will continue to ask serious $$$ for used setups as long as other options are limited.

How about a clone of the NLA pan and pickup in the $400 and below price range? Obviously not stamped steel, but there is really only one option for a pan in that price range right now. Perhaps a steel or aluminum flange to help build the custom pans even...

Any decent A/C tech should be able to determine the charge rate using gauge readings and, more importantly, temp readings on the input and output of the evaporator. Its all science, but not an exact one. Once they determine the charge rate, you can document it for future use. The PAG oil issue isn't so much a mystery if you follow the FSM for the system the compressor was originally used on. Assuming you are using all new components, which ideally you should, the amount of oil indicated in the FSM should cover you. If the compressor isn't new, you should drain as much oil as you can from it and refill it according to the FSM. If I remember correctly, the general rule for other components is 2-3oz of PAG for each new condenser, evaporator, and receiver/drier. New compressors usually come with instructions on how to calculate the oil charge. They have you drill a hole in the bottom of the old reciever/drier, measure the oil that drains out, and do some basic math to calculate the amount of oil to add. Overall, its generally better to have a bit too much oil rather than not enough. VERY IMPORTANT: Different compressors use different weight PAG oil. A bottle of OEM spec oil is way cheaper than a new compressor. PAG100 is not universal! If your components are from a system that has been disconnected or has had a compressor failure and new parts aren't an option, it is wise to thoroughly flush each component out with solvent based a/c flush (or brakleen) and massive amounts of compressed air. Any orifice tubes, expansion valves, mufflers, receiver driers, or accumulators should be replaced. A bit overkill, I know, but hopefully that about covers it for others as well. That's all from my experience dealing with customized A/C setups in limos and shuttle buses.

I was using the pullup resistor based on Moby's sketch using two 4pin HEI modules. I guess the 12-80 doesnt behave exactly the same as an HEI, maybe some crude dwell control. Unfortunately, my harness does not have any sheilded wires , but I will try hooking directly to the pickup coil... Also, has anyone found a good source for the small size spade connectors used inside the dizzy?

After some thinking, maybe I'll just eliminat the e12-80 from the equation. So I would just ground the green pickup wire and hook the red into tach(24)?

What does the vb921 act like when it is blown? Also, what makes it so special, could it be replaced by a transistor with similar ratings? After all that BS with the board settings, and dwell issues, I'm beginning to think maybe I fried it. I filled the slots on the mechanical advance with JB. It felt really solid too...

Funny enough, I am having a few problems with a similar setup. I am trying to run MSnS-e using the e12-80 for an input signal and the vb921 to run the coil. I filled both advance slots with JB and disconnected vacuum advance. After figuring out that my protocar assembled unit was configured for MS2 spark and not Extra spark, I got it running. I think i have a trigger angle of 20ish. It runs pretty good until i try to use dwell control and the timing jumps up to 45ish. It also wants to cut out and backfire around 3500rpm. I put a 1k resistor from the neg on the e12-80 to coil positive, but maybe the module doesnt want to play nice? I will check out my trigger tomorrow, but what dwell setting are you guys using?