Len

"I'm hopeing to get 20 to 25 mpg if I keep my foot out of it" Yea! 980mak tell me another bedtime story!!!!! when monkey's fly!!!!!!! I'm sorry that was just a knee jerk reaction. Couldn't help myself

WRONG SCOTTY! Please have someone around in case your P/U with the 500+ lbs. Spinning in gear with you under it! DROPS!!!! Don't want to lose you guy!

To clear up some confusion (I guess really my own!); To Calculate Correct Flow....You flow the injectors for 60 seconds at 43PSI multply by 4. That's the flow rate in CC's or ML's (both the same). To find lbs. you then divide by 10.5 For example my 370cc. Mustang SVO/Mercur I flow tested at 93ML. at 39lbs. X 4 = 372cc. (or ml.) then divide by 10.5 = 35.42 lbs. (or 35lbs.). My injectors were alright, I was confused. I thought my cutting out was due to lean. Because my Dawes Air/Fuel Gauge showed lean(Along with my misconception on how to calculate flow rate).My Gauge was wrong (or not very accurate) and I was wrong. My spark plugs (when I regapped them from .44 to .39 I noticed showed rich). My fuel economy (100 miles on 1/2 tank). My stock FPR was running higher pressure ( 40lbs. at idle I replaced with a 78 280z FPR I had laying around now 36lbs.). The Big difference was adjusting my AFM cog nearly 200 degrees clockwise. Now car runs great at WOT. To really improve operation I feel a 240SX TB along with a adjustable FPR like maybe Aeromotive (adjustable from 30lbs. up) or AEM adjustable from 20lbs. up). Both FPR are 1 to 1 indexed. If you lower your base pressure to much you could lose effiency of injectors spray pattern. These improvments are along with the need to eventually install 2 3/4" DP (I got faith in you Scottie) 3" exaust and I/C. I realize ideal situation is to buy SDS systum or some type of EFI controller systum to really fine tune things. I'm just trying to work cheaply as possible. I want to save my money for the SDS systum for my Lt-1 T-56 into 240Z install. But want to play in the meantime.

Donna I removed the hose running from valve cover to AFM hose. Plugged hose. Installed a K&N little breather filter on Valve cover. You could also install another breather filter on side of crankcase line running to PVC if youy want to (I didn't yet). Randy can cure your other questions better than I. Take Care Len

Until you get those larger rear tires. Leave those 500+lbs of old engine parts in the back for better traction!

If your patient. Buy some PB Blaster at autozone and squirt it every few hours for a few days. Try it. If it still doesn't budge; then as Tim said apply heat! Len

That's a great idea! How many gallons does it hold and what year/model did it come out of?

Hmmm. If its not leaking off the top of injector since it bleeds off so fast. Turn off engine let sit till it bleeds down. Then take off coil wire and coil hotwire (so it won't spark at coil) crank engine, check plugs, the wet one is the bad injector. Or possibly crank engine without the plugs and crank engine. Bleeding off that fast you should get some gas comming out of sparkplug hole. Or remove your fuel rail with your injectors still attached and place a little cup (like a yougert cup) under each injector. Crank engine a bit then let sit and see which one leaks off. BE CAREFUL; MAKE SURE COIL WIRE AND HOT WIRE AND PLUG TO COIL IS DISSCONNECTED SO YOU DON'T BLOW UP! You'll be around alot of gas! On my turbo its the fuel tank gauge unit, which has the sub gauge float, main gauge float,sending unit,and filter. You would remove the whole unit. See if the fuel line running to filter is cracked etc. That's all I can think of that would cause you to not get enough fuel at boost(with 1/2 tank); but changes when you fill up your tank.

Sounds like your fuel pickup line on the inside of your fuel tank may be cracked tward the top or just about 4 to 5 gallons from the top! You can either drop the fuel tank to get at fuel pickup. Or go thru your spare tire area in back and you will find round access hole you can open up to get to the fuel tank pickup. Try to clean it off best as possible then open it up and see what you got. You are losing fuel pressure because of your leaking injector bleeding off the pressure. If its leaking thru the plastic top then yes you need to get another injector. No big deal, while your at it. You might have them clean the other five and also replace the o rings if you haven't done it in a while.

The outfit that flow tested injectors said the 92 ml. output they recorded at 39PSI was for one min. duration. Hmmmmmm...doesen't seem like very much flow Huh! Another question. Anybody with the Mustang SVO or Merkur XR4Ti 370cc injectors, please look on the side of injector and let me know if your ID# is E5ZE A3A or E5ZE A3B That's what on the side of mine. I visited at a friends auto shop and looked in a bag he said injectors came off a ford 302 V8 and they were Light brown tops and ID# was E5TE A3A or E5TE A3B except one which was a browntop with the same ID as my browntops (E5ZE A3A) I'm beginning to think that maybe I was sold the wrong injectors!

They are the browntop. I am not sure if they tested them for one min. That's a good point. Didn't think to ask how long they tested them at the 39lbs. When I remove them to have them test them at a higher pressure I'll ask. I just know the 260ml.browntop turbo injectors I removed ran alot better than these!

I bought the SVO/Merkur injectors for upgrade on my 83 280ZXT. I installed them. Car ran OK at normal operation. Then at WOT car ran lean. Or I should say the Dawes A/F 5 light gauge showed lean. So I removed injectors had them cleaned. They flow tested them before they cleaned them; they flowed around 86 to 89 ml. at 39lbs. After they cleaned them they flowed 92/93ml. at 39lbs. I reinstalled them they ran OK at average driving then from 3 or 4lbs. of boost on to WOT they ran lean. So I double checked to make sure they were in fact running lean. I hooked up a multimeter and it showed normal operations running .75 to .84 volts then at WOT about the same possibly .89 to .9 after it started cutting out at WOT. So I called the Co. that cleaned them. Explained the situation. They said bring them down and they really didn't know flow rate for Mustang SVO's but let them know what pressure I wanted to test them. Correct me if I'm wrong these injectors are rated at 370ml. So that means to really check the flow rate they would need to test injectors at 3 Bar (atmospheres) which is 44lbs. and then see how they flow. They should flow 370ml. at 3 Bar. Right? Thinking back they tested them at 39lbs. they flowed 93ml. Thats a long ways off of 370ml. by a difference of just 5lbs. (39lbs.to 44lbs.)? Any ideas?

I remember the mechanic who owned my 83 280ZXT used a resistor on the cylinder temp sensor to richen it up. Good idea on AFM spring tension to compensate for richer mix. Possibly even considering lowering O2 sensor to show .75 instead of the normal .90 to .95 volts would also contribute!

Tony On a thread back in 1/28/02 in High Tech Board "Fooling the Stock ECU" touched a bit on that subject. Your right; that would be the berries to rig up a reostat of sorts to control signal from AFM to stock ECU to lean or richen injectors. I think that would be along the lines of what Bill "awd92gsx" is trying to do; hooking up his Apexi Super AFC. If he figures which wires to hookup on AFM then we can go from there rigging up possibly a reostat.

What you are doing right now is what seperates the men from the boys!!It takes intestinal fortitude!! Big Gazogas!! As Winston Churchill said HmmH "These are the times that tries mens souls!". Its always darkest before the dawn!!Remember what the positive little boy said digging in horse **** "there's gotta be a pony in here somewhere!" We have all been there and we are all behind you guy. Its gonna be great when you get it done! Len

Really if you think about it what 980 said is pretty straight foward. What da ya want? Ya want ta make ah 200 to 250 hp figure 2" pipe, 250 to 350 hp. figure about 2 1/4" pipe above that. You need to start praying your stock L-28 turbo engine will hold up. Also another thought is anything above 2 1/4" pipe is really going to be a motherbear to plumb from turbo/intake to in front of your radiator! Although I believe stock turbo TB is 2 1/4" and if you go with a 60mm TB upgrade you will be talking 2 1/2". Still since the turbo outlet is only 2", I figure on going with a 2 1/4" pipe(hey maybe my wife might get me a new T3/4 turbo upgrade for my birthday......NOT! ). Also I did what ZRED did and matched diameters with my current 2 1/4" I/C outlets. Still what Cody said concerning 2" (faster spoolup)is something to think about.

I personally kinda favor a 280Z for a Hybrid because of all of the above reasons. Regarding your 2nd question. You do have to abide with the smog emission regulations enacted during the year of your car. So a 70 240z has less smog stuff required as compared to a 78 280z.

I think the 370's are a good idea for injectors. From information I've learned; they should give you up to 300 HP. I think maybe 260's will give you the 220 hp your after(those are stock on 280 ZXTurbo's). Don't know what to tell you about your 240 engine. I'd figure you would probably blow a head gasket before you distroy your bottom end! With regards to your injectors. If you bought them 2nd hand, might be advisable to get them flow tested. Heck if just one is bad you run the risk of running lean on that one cylinder and guess what distruction of that one cylinder! A place in Fla. will charge 25 bucks to rebuild injectors so I'd figure that's a small price to pay for piece of mind! My 2 centavos senor! Len

In the JTR book in chapter 17 page 1 he breaks down weight difference between 240 and 280. The 520lb. difference was 175lbs. bumpers, air conditioning 60lbs.; as Staledale mentioned doorbeams; electric fuel pump 5 lbs.; rear anti sway bar 10 lbs.; R-200 diff. 16lb.; 3 row radiator, cat converter & heat sheilds 25lbs, Fuel injection,more sound deadening, fuel line insulation,vapor recovery systum.................I agree with Davy; pretty much improvements for the better. Stuff you don't need you can remove, like the bumpers, vapor stuff. Also you save work by not having to install a R-200 rear end, electric fuel pump, Fuel injection friendly fuel tank

Oh Davyz! I think we had this conversation a few months back Lets not go there again! Len

Better than a Soap Opera! Really happy for you Guy!

Air/Liquid For me I don't want to go there either. Except to the extent of maybe hooking up my headlight washer to spray into my Air to Air I/C during the hot Oklahoma summer days! That Spearco sounds nice and compact. I'm trying to install a old shelby 2.2 I/C about the same size. But I'm sure not as efficent! I figure if need be; building a scoop of sorts channeling air tward I/C. Good decision and Good luck! Len

My 280ZXT also rattles around the windows etc. The big bucks for replacement rubber seals have kept me from doing what needs to be done! So for now; I just crank up the music and apply more boost!!!!! I found the faster you go over the ruboard dirt roads around here. The less rattles noticed!

I forgot to mention. When you get to the point of installing the SVO's Scottie-GNZ has good instructions on his website.

PETEW Hi! I have six turbo 260cc. injectors. I know three of them leak out the brown plastic head. I know for sure at least two of the three remaining are good. Problem is I don't know which are the good ones and which are the bad (I mixed them up when I pulled them five months ago! If you want them I'll send them to you; You can send me what you think the 2 or 3 good ones are worth later. I followed the advice of ScottyMiz who followed the advice of Scottie-GNZ (at least you know we are adviceable! ). I bought six injectors from Rudy (who ScottyMiz told me about) I paid $150 for seven. He included an extra one for Murphy's law, that's the way he is. He is a nice guy. Now like 980mak and Scottie-GNZ mentioned search the SVO;XR4Ti site. You will find pretty good deals on ebay 4 injectors range $40 to $90, keep an eye out . I've got to install the 370's real soon since I will have another operation on my knee(possibly two,the last one a total knee replacement ) , so if I'm going to do anything I've got to do it pretty quick. I'll let you know how the injectors work. Contact me if you still need the old turbo injectors. Len