RTz

LSx bare iron block vs. bare aluminum block... 102.8 lbs difference. Tare weight zero'd... Alum... 94.2lbs Iron... 197.0lbs These were weighed on the same scale on the same day, and both were stripped down to the bare block. The iron block is a 2005 LQ4 and the alum. block is a 2000 LS1. Weights were taken by BrianV8Z, BRAAP, and myself.

The 621 reproduction bell from Keisler Engineering showed up... The plan is to mate it to a massaged TKO600 from Liberty Gear. There's been plenty of debate on the weight of an iron block vs. aluminum. I wanted to 'know' the difference and whether the there was enough difference to put an aluminum block on my wish list. The truth was a little more sobering than I had expected... 102.8 lbs difference. Tare weight zero'd... Alum... 94.2lbs Iron... 197.0lbs These were weighed on the same scale on the same day, and both were stripped down to the bare block. The iron block is a 2005 LQ4 and the alum. block is a 2000 LS1. Weights were taken by BrianV8Z, BRAAP, and myself.

For the love of God, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE post appropriately sized pictures. Pictures that large are not useful.

Pretty.

The 240 tach is triggered off the positive terminal of the coil. Did you happen to change that with your mods?

That is not abnormal. With one tire in the air, the only thing loading the clutches is whatever pre-load there happens to be and that's not normally enough. Once both tires have some grip, the side gears have something to work against and can load the clutches up MUCH more.

Enough of the bantering.

Thanks to Tony and John, I think I just split a seem

No, it’s not. Aesthetic modifications are very welcome here. When they are taken so far that they render the car useless THEN it is too far. That’s where the “thoughtful” part comes in. Enough. Really. Not one member in the history of this forum has ever been kicked off for any modification, aesthetic or otherwise.

Since this topic is coming up with increasing frequency... If a member is posting his slammed car with 195's stretched over 10" wheels because he doesn't know the difference, I have no issue with it. He'll learn by his own experiences and perhaps with some help from our members that some of his choices may be counterproductive to a sports car/race car. When a member posts the same with an "I don't give a F*** what the consequences are, I'm cool." then he is on the wrong forum. There are other forums that welcome that style and that's their function. It is not the function of HybridZ. Every generation of Z was designed, built, and sold to be a sporting car. This forum is about getting the most out the Z, not the least.

The one I'm looking for looks a lot like this...

I'd race him day/night/wet/dry/snow/desert on an out of gas Moped with flat tires. What was once a purposeful sports car is no longer. Just say'n.

Can I have my radiator back?

I kept the sump and pump, but discarded the tank before I sold the Z. I would like to paint it someday, but it's at the bottom of the todo list.

About 9 months ago, I sold my late 260 to Mongo510. This was the same car I had put the BMW S52 drivetrain into... M Powered Z I was distracted from Z's for a while and even built a Locost frame that I sold to a local friend who is now gracing it with an F20C. Can't wait to drive it!... Locost Skipping a lot of details, Mongo and I were talking and he told me I could have my 260 back. I chewed on that one for a few weeks and pulled the trigger. She's back home... I've always liked this car. It's never been hit and is as rust free as any un-restored Z I've ever seen. It's ugly but it's solid. (Thanks Mongo!) I put a bug in BRAAP's ear that I was looking for a 6.0 liter. Before the day was out, he had found me an LQ9 w/130K on the clock. It spent it's life in a 2002 Cadillac Escalade, so there's a fair chance this motor has lived an easy life. I made a deposit on it that day and brought it home that weekend... This motor is the "HO" variant of the LQ4. A little more CR (10:1) and a slightly more aggressive tune put it at 345hp and 380ft/lbs. Stripped it and set an LS1 intake on it...

Guilty. I've done it twice now. If you've got a rusted out battery tray and apron, I think it's easier to do this than it is to repair it back to original. The first time I saw this done was by BRAAP's dad (Ron Ruschman) in '92 or '93.

I'm selling an S52 in the Oregon/Washington area... http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/2997139722.html

JohnC = http://betamotorsports.com/

These are the BMW build threads that I'm aware of... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79806-rt260-bmw-m-powered/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97688-s50b32-euro-m-powered-240/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100527-bmw-m52-into-77-280z/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95675-240z-bmw-s52/

Agreed on the carb. The gas cap is kinda moot though. The tank must be vented and it was often done via the gas cap. With the advent of canisters, caps were all sealed and venting was done via the canister. Those two go together like popcorn and butter. Steering this back to the original post… This a fuel injected car with a sealed cap. The tank must be vented (in & out) and a canister is an efficient solution. It weighs next to nothing, requires almost no maintenance, doesn’t consume any power, and does a pretty good job containing fumes. Yes, they are ugly. So hide it. The yellow car In post #2 has one… it’s under the fender. To me, it’s a no brainer.

Sorry Gollum, I see it quite differently. A 1960 Chevy pollutes more parked and off than a 2000 Chevy does going down the highway. The evap. canister is a substantial piece of that pie. I don’t see anything incremental about it. I understand this thread is not about emissions compliance in the legal sense, but I *DO* care about the fumes filling up my shop. In no way could I declare it inconsequential.