RTz

I'd put Lego's in my car if I thought it was the right part for the job. It's plain silly to to allow others to tell you what's best for you. There will always be concessions in these kinds of projects (investment, return, etc, etc), but that is your burden. Anyone that thinks they have a say in it can go put their head in a toilet. If a TPI Porsche blows your skirt up, go for it. And please post your progress here. Many of us appreciate automotive challenges and solutions.

Finished the fan plate... Fan is '97 Volvo 850. Two speed, moves plenty of air, quiet, and covers the radiator nicely.

I should be around off and on all weekend. Give me a call when you head out.

Radiator mounts are finished up (making use of stock core support holes). I did make a revision to the mounts. These were easier to machine, and I like the look a little better.... Fan mount plates were also welded on, top and bottom... Weep holes in the bottom plate... Drilled/tapped for shoulder bolts. Grommets and crush washers will provide a dose of isolation... Test fit... Still need to machine the crush washers, fab the fan plate, and attack it with some elbow grease.

Minimizing connectors is generally considered good, but keep in mind those channels are logic level, current is minimal, and runs are generally short. However, resistance isn't the bigger concern... Soldering is controversial. Disavowed in aviation, and for good reason. Subjecting solder to vibrations will fail, eventually. *IF* you're going to solder in an automotive environment, be sure to provide ample support/strain relief. That's the minimum in my opinion. Convenience and convenience. DIY AutoTune. Not so much shielded wire, but they sell a robust shielding. If the VR is properly shielded, you shouldn't encounter any issues. It's ultimately up to you. How far do you want to take it? Are we talking F22's or Datsuns (with proportional budgets and risks)? Generally... the lower the voltage and longer the wire, the more 'inducible' it is.

Technically speaking, fan diameter is only one variable... so is blade pitch, count, and RPM. There certainly is a limit. If your motor/trans mounts are soft and your brakes know how to do their job, you'd better have some clearance, Clarance. If you're 'motor plated' then things can get a little more comfy. A typical street car should probably have not much less than 1/2" clearance. As with most things, a little diligence can go a long way to insure you're safe.

The 'hips' of a 2+2 are substantially wider (@ approximately the center-line of the rear wheels).

All the air in the world won't make any reasonable boost with the schematic he proposed.

Not an answer to your questions, but I believe it's relevant to your concerns... Baffles. You need baffles. Search for swirl pot or surge tank and you'll figure it out from there.

I took a picture of Tony at the 2008 West Coast Nats...

Absolutely positively unreservedly not.

Please please please please please PRETTY PLEASE use descriptive subject titles.

Jeremiah just spent a few hours out here. Said you're getting his S52

I like BRAAP's idea the best, with a minor adjustment... Best Xtranormal video, 5 minutes or less, with Z car content. Keep it PG-13. Deadline Sept 1st. http://www.xtranormal.com/ P.S. Paul has donated his stickers to the pot... so the winner gets two large and two small.

That's not a diffuser. That's a purely cosmetic trim piece, attributing less than 10 cents worth of aero performance. It would probably be easier to fab a potentially functional diffuser to fit a Z.

Bump. 5 day's left.

Because an L24 has a street value of $25.00. An L28, $30.00. Point is, there isn't much monetary difference between the two. BUT, the L28 has 16% more displacement and, all things being equal, 16% more power is a pretty darn good return on your money. If you're rules restricted, the story is different. If not, the decision is simplified. Can we close this thread now?

Someone finally gets it

Rule #7.... 7. Remember, this is a Hybrid site. Do not ever get on the purist Datsun/Nissan soapbox or promote Datsun/Nissan only swaps. The Admins/moderators will not tolerate this. The mere mention of keeping your Z "all Datsun" will be frowned upon. Several other sites exist for this mindset. Make those comments somewhere else, please.

I don't suspect too many offshore race boats drive through tunnels or between rows of 20 story buildings?

I'd be interested in hearing a first hand report as well. One of the drawbacks of my BMW swap is that there is no VSS in the transmission (BMW puts them in the diff.) I have a workaround for it, but the GPS may be a more elegant solution.

Wake up on the wrong side of the Globe Tony?

Mongo stopped by with his Mona Lisa today. He kindly offered the keys, so BRAAP and I took it for a short trip. A little more tuning and this car is gonna rip. But... but... but... the intriguing part is the rear suspension. An unfamiliar car with a prototype suspension demands some discretion, ergo the drive was decidedly cautious. However, I will say this... the only Z's I've driven that ride this good and deliver this much power, squat excessively... and Johns car does NOT. Definitely keeping an eye on this Z's future. Two thumbs John!