RTz

Pretty functional I would guess.

Video as promised. Sounds a lot like an air-cooled V-dub It’s idling fast in the video – about 1600 RPM. I’m still sorting out the E-Throttle, which doubles as my fast idle control.

In my opinion the cooling is the most difficult part of the conversion and I actually like the looks of the factory grille in the Vanagon, so I’d be really tempted to put in the effort to retro-fit the later model stock stuff. I’m sure you already know this, but there are literally hundreds of Vanagans with Subarus. It looks like a pretty straight forward swap for those that came water cooled.

Soon.

I've completed a number of smaller tasks since my last update, such as installing a DBW Infiniti G37 throttle pedal, completing the Vi-PEC wiring, and so on, but the real news is that she started up for the first time tonight

Yup, around the corner behind the tail-light along with a carbon canister.

The engine is finally wired. The only wiring left at the rear is the battery and starter. I have about a dozen or so wires left to run to the front. The only remaining challenge are the foot position sensors.

Today is a good day. I have not found time for rt260 for more than a year and I didn't see that changing in the foreseeable future. I felt that it was time for a new owner to breath some life into this Z. I have passed this car on to good friend Tube80z and I'm looking very forward to seeing his plans unfold!

Thank you. Several: The Subaru is not set up for a mechanical fan so you would have to construct a fan drive As I see it the only practical orientation of the radiator and airflow would require pushing air through the radiator. Most engine driven fans are built as pullers, not pushers. Pulling air through a radiator is generally more effective than pushing It would require the radiator to be in the vertical position directly behind the engine. That equals crappy maintenance access to the engine You would still need to route the discharge air without a visual impact to the Bus Electric fans are generally quieter and more efficient I can think of a few more reasons but I think we’re already past a solid ‘heck no’ Still working on wiring. It’ll be a while yet before its running.

What car and what EFI system do you intend to use?

There's nothing better in the world than a wife that supports your insanities. Just remember to return the kindness. Oh, and congratulations!

Started mocking up the board. It fits neatly into one of the cabinets in the rear of the Bus. I've also spent quite a bit of time researching and testing the E-throttle over the last couple of weeks. I think I'm finally comfortable with what needs to happen and what to expect. Next is to finish up the board, install it, and tackle the remainder of the wiring.

Thank you, Sir. Maybe someday I'll actually get to drive it

Removed the old spent wiring harness, neutralized a lot of surface rust underneath, repaired battery tray, repaired bumper mounts, modified the rear apron to accommodate the radiator, painted everything, and reassembled. It's pretty well complete mechanically. I've installed AN push-lock fittings in the fuel system, but I'm still waiting on 2 more to show up. Once those arrive I've have about an hour or so to wrap up the fuel system end all that's left is a coolant overflow bottle, carbon canister, and some tune up items (plugs, wires, PCV valve, oil, etc). Then it's on to EMS and wiring.

I assume you're asking about the button clutch? I took the lazy way and bought everything together as one package. Tilton part number 52-33130. It's a triple disc 5.5" for LSx. Includes everything in this picture... Side by side of a stock sized flywheel...

Something else that may help speed up your shifts is reprogramming the ECU. The OE programming is intentionally designed to keep the RPM's up between shifts and these can be nulled with HPTuners, etc. Yup. Sort of. 38lbs less than a Monster Stage II clutch with 18lb flywheel. But I believe that package is nearly identical in weight to the stock stuff.

Pretty basic actually. The vinegar came from Safeway in gallon jugs. I would guess most of the supermarket apple cider vinegars are pretty close to the same thing. The natural acids in the vinegar are what is attacking the rust. All I did was completely submerge the part in the vinegar and be patient. That's all there is to it. The only 'magic' in that sentence is completely. What I found was that anything not submerged and exposed to the off-gassing of the vinegar would rust nearly as fast as the rust was being removed from the submerged portion. Aside from that, it's child's play.

I dropped the transmission mount in a bucket of apple cider vinegar for a few days. This time I snapped a before and after. The black areas are paint... The fuel tank was far worse.

Been a while since my last update. Progress is happening, I promise. A few of the noteworthy items... Exhaust is completed on both sides. I adapted the Bus throttle cable to the Subaru throttle body. Didn't like it. Not one bit. The combination of the 18 mile long cable, with two more bends, made for a snatchy throttle feel. Various springs in various places subdued the feel to heavy numbness. I considered modern cables and liners as well as hydraulic operation but ultimately settled on an electric throttle. This (and other wants) ultimately lead me to aftermarket EFI. Most of you know I've been fond of Wolf EMS for many years, but they don't offer a system that directly supports Drive by Wire (ViPEC calls it E-Throttle). Long story short, I settled on a ViPEC i88 purchased from Vic at Pauertuning.com. I'm looking forward to getting my feet wet with ViPEC. It's a bit harder on the pocket book and the learning curve is a little steeper, but has a lot to offer in return... I picked up a used 2006 Legacy E-throttle and adapted it to the older manifold. The main hurdle is the bolt pattern is 'off' by about .070". I machined the throttle to fit but, in retrospect, I should have modified the manifold instead... I disassembled everything in preparation for rust proofing, painting, and some rust repair at the bumper mounts. Once everything was out, pulling the fuel tank for inspection seemed obligatory. Glad I did. Aside from the hidden rubber hoses that were cracking, the interior of the tank was in a bad way. Rust had settled in deeply. I decide to try the apple cider vinegar trick and filled the tank with 15 gallons. It worked FAR better than I expected. I wish now that I had taken some before pictures, but believe me when I say it was BAD. Here is the after pic. You can see the signs of the deepness of rust penetration. Very pleased with the results...

"seasonal affective disorder" Would that be SAD?

The rear spring/shock arrangement is interesting. Any more pics you can share, particularly of the outboard end, and how it ties into the rear hub?

Happy New Year!!!

Fair enough. Not a bad idea. No way Jose! She gets liquid heat. It was one of the bullet points for ditching air cooled.

If the airflow is up, the fan would have to run nearly continuously. If the air comes in the 'slot' above it and downward than that makes cleaning that much worse. The access panel idea Tony had is nice, but in my experience, radiators/coils should be cleaned in reverse of the airflow. In either case, these are the reasons I chose to avoid belly mounting. And hopefully my approach will work well enough that I won't have to reconsider.

Tony, If I can't get this radiator arrangement to work satisfactory, plan B is to belly mount. But my concern is still the same as I mentioned in post #16... we have wet roads more often than we have dry roads. We get tons of muddy oily road grime kicked up for more than half the year (and I average about 25K miles per year). I don't really want to crawl under the bus two or three times a year to wash out a radiator. How do you reduce the 'sludge' to an acceptable level with belly mounting?