RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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This should give you an idea of how much higher and inboard (to miss the hood) you'll have to be to clear an L series...
That bracket shape puts everything very very close. Not much fudge room left.
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Both channels are configurable and can output two WB's, two NB's, a combination of the two, or even custom curves.
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Way to go Austin!
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Hello 2004 thread.
Are you asking if the bleeder size is the same on the stock front disc and stock rear drums? If so the answer is yes.
Nope. Front is 10mm x 1.00 and rear is 7mm x 1.00.
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Those of you with broken keyboards may want to read this... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139500
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At the risk of getting tagged myself, I'm wondering what the rules tag is...*ducks*
Yes, I searched!
You'll find out on your next post
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just wait till you wake up and your M3 has a new shifter
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Welcome to the staff!
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"New Posts" filters out the threads you've already seen, if there are no new posts since you last looked.
If you click "Quick Links" and then "Today's Posts", it'll show up.
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I really hate saying this, but BRAAP is actually correct... this time
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You really do have a gambling problem.
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I never understood the entitlement that a previous owner thinks he has (with rare exception). If you sell the car, it's no longer your concern. Same with houses. I have relatives that are pissed because the new owner of 'their' house cares for it differently. So what, it's not YOURS any longer. You SOLD it, remember? When I pay for something with my hard earned green, it belongs to me and I'll do with it as I darn well please.
The compensation you receive releases your interest.
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It's the cylinder head temp (CHT) sensor for the ZX EFI.
Also, as the previous poster alluded, your question is a little difficult to read. Please make an effort to write clearly.
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ok thanks. i think it is sticking, why would it do that?
What is sticking and why do you think it's sticking?
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Alright, you just put the MC on brand new, let it run fluid out the bleeder and then just bleed the brakes at the calipers.
...And then finish with a normal bleed at the MC, ie cracking the bleeders while a helper has the pedal depressed. You shouldn't need to do that more than a couple times. If, after many attempts, you still get air bubbles, the MC might be bad. We've had a couple of those in the last year.
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I imagine I will need to bleed the whole system again but do I need to pull the master and actually bench bleed it off the car, or was what I did sufficient?
I'm no 'Master Bleeder' but I can tell you that I've never *had* to bench bleed a MC. Usually, I just remove the two bleed nipples and let them gravity bleed. I did two last week, both new and BONE dry. One MC started flowing within a minute. The other MC, one nipple took a few minutes, the other after 10 minutes or so. Once I get that far, I reinstall the nipples and bleed the rest of the system. Then finish off with last check at the MC.
Not saying thats the 'best' way, but I've had good luck with it.
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Let me hammer another one home here: You need only ONE question mark to indicate inquisitive case.
Guilty. I find myself doing such a thing when I'm having a head scratch moment. Example... WTF???
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Keep it up and I'm going to make this a sticky
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Those wires aren't supposed to 'get any current'. They run from the VR sensor (variable reluctor) in your distributor, straight to the ignition module (passenger side kick panel). The VR sensor is the 'trigger' for your electronic ignition.
maf carb
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by RTz
One of our members has converted his SU's to Throttle Body Injection... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136397
Another member is using the SU manifolds with 280ZXT throttles (could use SU's) for Multiport Injection... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124201
Regarding MAF... It may not be worth the expense and trouble to use a MAF sensor. Most people will be happy with a MAP sensor providing the load data.