RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Best of luck!
I'm thinking you should start back at the beginning of this thread
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My wifes son is one of the most recognized names in cooperate Apple... and Nike. He's a Geek and a 21 time world record holding athlete.
Like father, like son...
(Pictures courtesy of BRAAP)
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Start with post 17... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145024
The difference in volume between TDC and BDC is what is more important, and that difference is larger with a higher SCR engine, hence the increased SCR.
How so? Displacement is displacement.
For a given displacement, swept volume remains constant, regardless of CR. However, a lower CR has a greater clearance volume. Depending on valve events, that may translate into greater cylinder pressure at a fixed boost/CFM.
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Can I just go to home depot and get grade 8 bolts, washer and lock nut?
I wouldn't do that. The stock bolts are shoulder bolts for a reason. That is what I would use if at all possible.
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Had someone PM me with a glass from a 76 Z, so I will follow both leads.
If I'm not mistaken, '77 & '78 doors, catches, regulators, and glass are different from the 'early' models. It's been mentioned here before, it seems.
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is this a 280ZX s130 ? a 280z S30?
He said '78.
It came out of my 1973 240z...so you might want to check with someone to make sure it will fit a 78 door.
Pretty certain it doesn't.
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so do i just grab the arm and pull down and back towards the trunk?
Yes.
About how hard should I yank?
Hard enough to remove it. You won't hurt anything.
And how does it reinstall?
It snaps back in a similar fashion. You'll understand when you get it out... it's just metal spring clips.
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Could be John Morton in the Z, and Bart Simpson (and Homer) in the F-car.
...or it could be time for the Z driver to step aside
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I would like to trade my 10" long, 300lb/in Eibach 2.5" coil-over springs, for equivalent 8" long springs.
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Just grab it and pull. The mirror and mounting arm will pull right out of the ceiling.
Yup. Pull it rearward and it'll pop right out.
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I messed with it a little...
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Cool shot!
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Replaced the BJ the following day. Took it out for a drive... and completely lost the front brake circuit. Some digging revealed the master cylinder had gone belly up (pure coincidence). Swapped in a new 15/16" MC. Fixed. It 'needed' a bigger MC, but I may have gone too far... 7/8" would probably be 'just right'.
Spent about 5 1/2 hours behind the wheel, mostly highway travel... Bart is officially a two-finger car. Yeeehaaaaa! Even in the nastiest of ruts, it no longer jerks the wheel out of your hand and requires only minor steering correction. It's sensitive to driver input, but no longer bullied by road irregularities. Just right for a 'sport car'
It does have a somewhat numb on-center feel, but I have a couple idea's for that. The front pads need to be replaced with something aggressive to help with brake bias (and decrease pedal effort). And the soft motor mounts are causing a couple of contact points. A bit more fiddling and I think it will all come together nicely.
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Anybody tried EBC Yellow Stuff? It looks to be a track oriented compound that still exhibits reasonable cold bite. I've been a loyal R4S user for years, but I'm thinking about giving these a shot (at about 2/3rds cost of R4S's for my application).
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You're right Bryan.
That was *supposed* to say first two years were square port (N42), later heads were round port....
Brain got behind my fingers... sorry guy's.
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7.4:1 i just think its to low.
Many VERY successful members of this forum have a different opinion. You'll find their reasons here, if you look.
i really think you need more boost to make good power with that compression ratio.
That is actually backwards. Again, the reason why is spelled out within this forum.
and another thing. My 280z came with 170hp (refering to sticker on my car itself) from the factory and it doesnt matter if its at the crank(which it probably is) or at the wheels.
the l28et only has 180hp which is 10hp more. Now we all know engines are going to vary on the dyno, but just looking at numbers and numbers only that 10hp is like an intake and exhaust on most cars. and im not involving tq for a number of reasons. THATS JUST NOT BANG FOR YOUR BUCK NO MATTER HOW CHEAP THOSE ENGINES ARE.
L28E is 135 NET. L28ET is 185 NET... 50 HP.
But honestly it seems like everybody says the L28 has flat top pistons and i havent read once on here someone saying dishtop pistons in the L28. And its like alot of people swap for the L28ET and i can understand if you didnt have the L28 to start with but why swap if you have an L28 for L28ET?? I would (which i am) just start with exhaust manifold and wiring harness. instead of swapping the motor. IDK maybe its the electronics of L28et supressing power. but idk can i have some answers or some keen knowledge to let me know i lil suttin.
The L28E came with both dished and flat throughout the production years. First two years (N42) had round exhaust ports with liners. Some of us have concern with liner integrity in turbocharged applications.
In a nut shell, you have a lot more research to do
lil suttin.IDKPlease write in plain English.
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...saw a post that superdan made asking for suggestions on the betterment of the classified section.
Dan asked for suggestions to reduce the chances of someone joining the forum for the sole purpose of scamming. That is the intent of 'minimum posts'. A feedback system is useless in this case.
I suggested the same idea in the other thread before Dan had a chance to reply. It's a fine system, which Cockerstar already noted they are already used on several paintball site like pbn and mcb. The VB software has several cool features depending on what verison is used.No version of vBulletin has a 'feedback' system built in, only unsupported 3rd party plugins.
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The problem appears to be back...
Your answer can be found in the chatbox archives, Stardate 07-16, 08:50
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how does the tokico hts compare to the azc shock? I'm reading that the hts is rather lacking in range on rebound. sounds on par with adjustability though. comments?
I've not messed with the AZC stuff, but I am currently running the HTS damper. The rebound range seems satisfactory for a 300lb spring, but I'm not getting enough control for a 350lb spring.
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Bart went for his first drive with the new front suspension... twisty back-roads for about 20 miles or so. The first thing that hits you, of course, is the steering effort. The power assist makes for effortless steering even in maximum G corners. Steering feel is light years more advanced. The sensation of steering the wheels with giant rubber bands is GONE (although on center feel isn't as crisp as I had expected). Steering is also substantially quicker and the car has a noticeably tighter turning radius. Is there more grip? Tons more. Even with overly stiff front springs, the car rotates almost nasty like... but in a good way
Is the darty-ness gone? I *think* so. I haven't driven it on my regular highway's yet, but looking good so far. The BMW front calipers are a small caveat. They're not as compatible with the master cyl. as I had hoped (master too small). A minor fix. I probably wont mess with it until the rear suspension is sorted.
The most disappointing change has been the fluid filled motor mounts. They remove a slight amount of vibration and noise, but now the motor moves all over the place, and I mean to the tune of an INCH of vertical movement. I can feel the wind-up and the secondary bounce of the motor on rougher roads. They are ridiculously soft. I haven't installed the hood yet and I'm a little concerned about hood clearance.... and the additional stress on the plastic radiator.
I discovered a worn ball joint on reassembly, so he's parked for now. I've got a small road trip planned this weekend. Hopefully I'll have made the repair by then and can report on general road manners.
P.S. Thanks to Zbuff, MONGO510, skib, and datsunscom for chipping in some elbow grease in the blistering hot weather last weekend!
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Juan, please use descriptive subject titles.
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Oh and whats that black mount at the top of your first pic?
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Someone trying to sell me 350 conversion mounts and trans mount with the hood latch conversion kit for $200.00. Good deal?
When you say "mounts", are you including the rubber isolators? If so, there is a substantial difference between OE GM mounts and some aftermarket brands. In my experience the Chinese made isolators are much stiffer, much weaker, and much cheaper.
Who sells them and how much brand new?
You really should search for questions like that.
Wanted, your old Z car auto trans, dead or alive, $100!
in Parts Wanted
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What's that smell?