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Posts posted by RTz
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Last time I needed a driveshaft most shops wanted $300 minimum so I just walked away. I might have to drive out to the sticks to find a cheap shop.
In Oregon, I normally pay in the $150 range for a shorten & freshen at respected shops. This does not include Nissan branded U-joints, though.
You are going to have to swap the tach
Maybe not. I believe the MSD tach adapter 8920 will work in that application. They run about $50.
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Happy Birthday Dood!
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Bryan, let it go. You made your point, and I do believe its a fair one. However, continuing to needle him is not helpful.
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Moved to Cars Wanted sub-forum and retitled to something useful. You're welcome
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I'll update more after installation and testing.
Please do!
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Dave,
I've got a set I can donate for the cost of shipping. I probably won't have time to ship until early next week, if that's okay?
To clarify, your subject line is plural, but your text says one. How many do you want?
PM me your address if this works for you.
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Exactly! All the better a reason to have a converter...
As I understand it, a converter primarily addresses hydrocarbons.
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A converter won't change infiltration.
1% Carbon Monoxide is considered fatal. It's also orderless. You can pick up an inexpensive disposable CO 'indicator' at most any small aircraft renter.
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Do what you want... just don't be dragging me into it
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Ron, that was one of my most favorite car rides EVER!!
I've never been very scared as a passenger, but when you took me down Ten Eyk road that one time, I about pee'ed my pants!!
Nice linear acceleration, and insane grip.
That car became the most overall capable street car I've ever owned.
Anders and I worked together experimenting with different set-ups on each others M3's, essentially sharing the development costs and time. In a short period, we both ended up with very capable cars that were still everyday live-able. Not a bad way to go when you're starting fresh with a platform.
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I'm surprized that nobody recommended using IPA for maching Aluminium.
I prefer to drink IPA
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Just working out the kinks. Hang tight.
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Mods - could we move this to another forum where more people will see it and make it a sticky?
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1031208#post1031208
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That looks greatBut dont you need a dampner on the L series engines
With all due respect' date=' yes, you do need a damper, unless you are planning to tear-down the bottom end of the motor after every few runs/outings (depending on how hard you are hitting it - ask Jeff Priddy) and have the budget to replace parts fairly regularly.Even on normally-aspirated inline four-cylinder engines, we have seen crankshaft journal flexing of two degrees or more with no harmonic damper installed, in our dyno/torsiograph tests. In serious performance applications, you can expect that much flex to shear cranks at the flywheel after a few laps in a road race environment. Inline-six cranks are notoriously worse (ask the BMW racers what they have been going through.)
Anyone who wants to read-up on exactly what harmonic dampers actually do can click the link below for a technical document which our head of damper development wrote:
Cheers,
Chris @ BHJ
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Nice Job.
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Rest in peace.
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what cfd sofware are you using?
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I have been using my new CFD software called Star CCM+. It is a really high end code, used in everything from military to F-1 - super powerful.
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actually they are mounted in a functional way, ALOT of drifters and racers mount them that way if you research on the net it IS so you can adjust slight camber AND caster changes.
It is getting WAY more popular these day and you will start seeing more and more.
Any adjustment that adds caster and concurrently reduces camber is considered functional in the drift world?
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I've been using the D300 quite a lot lately...
Prove it
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Stop it. Just stop.
This thread is terrible and I don't even know why I bothered looking at it. I was toying around with the idea of getting an E36 as a DD a while ago but now I think you've sealed my fate. Jerks.
We aim to please
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The injectors are not polarized so you can wire them any which way. Same for the CHTS and coolant temp sensor (not the sender to the gauge, but the sensor).
Yup.
Switched Electric Fuel Pump (260Z)
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted · Edited by RTz
It's not going to fix your problem. The bowls aren't empty on cold start unless something is draining them. Your cold start problems are likely caused by other issues.
P.S. Please refrain from frequent bumping.