RTz

Making 400HP, with "x" parts, is rarely black & white. The difference in a valve job, at that level, can be quite substantial. That is not a 'part'. That is talent, tooling, and care. Some shops are better at it than others. That's only one aspect of head work. There are countless others. Who's doing the head work, and what are they doing? Are you using a stock exhaust manifold? Ported? By whom? I assure you, some people know how to do this better than others. A properly tuned motor can make great power for a long time. A poorly tuned motor will do neither. Who's tuning the motor? This is a never ending story. It goes on and on and on. Making good power, reliably, is not an X Y Z proposition. Further, defining a peak number, alone, is nearly as disastrous as listing a bushel of parts. If it was easy, we'd all be doing it.

Nah, I've got plenty of silicone. Use it all the time.

How much would you charge to build one for me? I don't need it to be that fancy though... just functional.

Three words... ell. ess. ex.

4:02, and another hour to go. Video said they're supposed to build the Burj to 2400 feet! It also said another is being built TWICE that high.

L20B? Sorry... you can delete my poor humor

That's not aluminum... its iron, and its called a "main cap". You're saying you wore into a main cap?

Its not... L28ET is 2.120" dia, Z32 is 1.964" (and the slot rows are on different diameters as well).

Phil, I changed your subject title hoping it will help find someone in your area. Also, your post is very difficult to read. Please make an effort to capitalize & punctuate, per our rules. The more clear you are, the better the chance of someone helping you. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2 Good luck.

Posts deleted. Let's start over...

No, we're agreeing with each other. If there were no correction, the AFR would go rich. Thats what I said. What Zmanco is saying is that the system, through correction, reduces pulse widths so that it doesn't go richer. The goal is to keep the same AFR.

Mark, If you're going to work on you car, you need tools, yes? One of the tools that should be in every toolbox is a book. The Haynes manual is really quite good for our cars. I've completely worn out one, and the second one is not far from retirement. Also, Please use descriptive subject titles to help the next guy.

If no air temp compensation were being used, an increase in air temp will richen the mixture.

As long as it provides the right fuel/spark consistently and reliably, it won't hurt a thing. Its sounds like you're making the assumption that a minimalist or budget oriented ECU is automatically less capable of providing proper ignition and fuel. In some cases, you'd be correct, but not all. It just 'depends'. I'm not trying to tell you that MS is just as appropriate as Motec. But, what I am saying is... just because a system has less features, or costs less, doesn't mean it won't do a terrific job for YOUR application. To buy a more expensive system for features you'll never use is not the best use of your budget. A somewhat facetious example... SDS is pretty bare bones... yet its 'just right' for a small aircraft. Useful load and RPM are very narrow, and transitional response is not relevant. Nor is idle control. Anti-lag? Buttery smooth rev limiter? Launch control? Who cares? So on and for forth. Point is, it won't run any better with a $25K EFI Technology system. Don't confuse increased cost with better for your needs. Hey... I like you guy's. Some of the best engine management stuff comes from your back yard!

Define 'specification'.

That's not quite how I read him. Part of his point is that some of the fancy-ness can be a waste on a track car. One example, some EMS's have a horde of idle control parameters... not terribly important to a race car. Another, large fuel/ignition tables... a 40x16 table is most likely a waste, especially if the torque curve is reasonably smooth. Etc, Etc, Etc. On the other hand, these types of features can be very desirable on a street car, in terms of drivability. Different uses, different needs.

I've never seen a kit. Its just elbow grease, creativity, and having a basic understanding of each component.

Its the ignitor. Its purpose is to convert the low current output from the ECU to the high current necessary to run the coil.

That is not representative of a fully charged, healthy battery. In fact, its fully discharged. It should read closer 12.6-12.8.

Call your agent and get a real number. Ask them to put it in writing and mail it to you. Its free. Polling others is not the way to go about this.

Probably the TPS. Do a bit of searching and you'll find proper adjustment and operation. ...moving to troubleshooting... Also, please make an effort to capitalize and punctuate, per our rules... http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2

Gary, Its been a while, but I used to buy them at the Carquest on 99, a couple miles south of Beltline.

Factory Service Manual.