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HybridZ

RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

  1. I am not convinced there is enough support for the upper arms.

     

    You're right, there isn't. Once again, the pictures, as you see them, are of an incomplete project. It would not work 'as shown'.

     

    Part of the missing piece is the crossmember. Built for a T-Bird Turbo Coupe power rack, it was intended that some of the loads of the upper mounts would be channeled to it (via triangulated tubing), and some of them would be transferred to the rest of the chassis via triangulated tubing. Sort of like a tube frame car, with an underlying unibody. Its clunky at best, but the idea was simply proof of concept.

     

     

    RackA.jpg

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    RackB.jpg

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    RackC.jpg

  2. Here are some other pictures I have, I do not remember where I got them from but I think they came from Hybridz but I am not sure.

     

    Actually, they came from my website... its amazing what comes back to haunt you :wink:

     

    that is awful thin metal to hang such a crucial part of your suspension from !! i would defiantly reinforce that

     

    Of course there were provisions, if only in my head, to structurally reinforce... project was shelved before it materialized. There are a number of things 'wrong' with it... I would approach it differently if I were to do it again.

     

     

    For giggles, here is a 9.5" wheel mounted, that fit 'under' the fender...

     

     

    SledgeWheelA.jpg

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    SledgeWheelB.jpg

  3. When I wore a younger mans shoes, I used to drive an S30 every day. Did for many years. Anymore, I only drive one occasionally. I think most of us become less tolerant (or maybe spoiled?) as we age. I keep thinking someday I'll refine one enough to be worthy of DD status. The reality is that it will probably never happen... its too easy to buy a 'runabout' to beat on. For many reasons a disposable car is appealing.

  4. 1) Tune AFR's for 14.3:1. I found that anything higher produced a failed emissions test. My previous belief was best emissions were achieved at 14.7:1.

     

    Richer than 14.7 produces more CO, leaner than produces more NOX. 14.7 is where they cross... the lowest volume of both. At least, that's how I understand it.

     

    Your suggestions also normally work for stock-cammed NA L28's (even in open loop).

     

    Thanks for sharing. I kept forgetting to ask you how you faired.... that 11.3 pass had me distracted :D

  5. ...and was curious on what diameter runners I should choose and lengths?!

     

    Welcome to the art of intake manifolds :wink:

     

    The cross-sectional area of the runner is the single biggest influence on where torque peak falls...

     

    1.500" ID puts the natural torque peak (of the runner) around 5540 RPM on an L28. Pretty steep for most folk.

     

    1.450" ID... 5200 RPM

     

    1.400" ID... 4850 RPM

     

    1.350" ID... 4500 RPM

     

    I wouldn't run any less than 6" length and I'd like to see more like 7"+.

     

    Don't discount taper. General consensus is about 2.5% (in area) per inch.

     

     

    Also which plenum design is more efficient? 4x4 square.. D shape or the half round plenum?!

     

    Parallel walls are normally frowned upon... I wouldn't use 4x4 without good reason.

  6. Rainer,

     

    A general rule of thumb... better chambers require less advance to reach MBT.

     

    The factory (L-series) chambers are not terribly impressive... so they respond well to more advance than a modern engine. On the other hand, Monzters chambers are a thing of beauty. That is largely, if not entirely, why his timing numbers are modest.

     

    On a bone stock 8.3:1 L-series, total timing will probably be in the 38-40 degree range (on premium US fuel). You have more compression and different gas... you will likely find different results.

     

    Any map you use/copy should be thought of only as a start point. You must test & tune.

  7. is there any information about the theory of ignition advance map ?

     

    There is plenty of opinion and theory on the topic. Volumes have been written.

     

    Here's a starting guide...

     

    Bottom line, give the engine what it likes.

     

    On a dyno, most modern unmodified engines will reach mean best torque (MBT) before they begin detonating. At that point, adding more advance is useless (and more stressful), and power will begin to fall. Eventually detonation will set in. However, some engines are detonation limited and some timing value below that threshold will typically produce MBT. If you find more torque beyond detonation, its an indication that only a portion of the cylinders are detonating, but its still 'unsafe'. Give the engine what it likes.

     

    At idle, good timing will generate good vacuum. Give it what it likes.

     

    Fuel mixture effects the rate of burn, so it can have an influence on 'optimal' timing. Dyno will show MBT. Give it what it likes.

     

    Lighter loads decrease the dynamic comp. ratio, causing a slower burn rate. More advance will prove 'better' with light loads. Fuel economy, response, and a dyno will help guide you with this. Give it what it likes.

     

    Many engines will start anywhere between 0 and 20 degrees. Again, give it what it likes... you'll know.

     

    You will usually find that there is a 'window' of MBT over several degrees of timing. Choose the lesser advance. In fact, slightly 'under' the window, with a slightly richer mixture often produces very similar MBT, with less stress.

     

    Never run more advance than required to get you to MBT or knock threshold.

     

    Tune. Tune. Tune... and don't forget to give it what it likes.

  8. and whether you like it or not, those with some familiarity in the casting process will tell you that the sand will drain from 1-hole mid-block as well as it will drain from 4-holes mid block. (the same cannot be said of it's use as a freeze plug)

     

     

    Curious, why do you suppose there is a 'freeze plug' in the intake manifold?

     

    hintzmanifoldb.jpg

  9. Z-ya's advice is solid.

     

    Another way to approach this... pick a dealer that's going to provide proper support, and buy whatever system he sells, regardless of the name on the box...

     

    Getting the most out of a 'junk' system is better than getting nothing out of the 'best' system.

  10. I don't know but I was thinking that without the resistors which are needed to limit current, everything else in the circuit should start to get a little warmer. If there are transistors in the path, they more than likely will heat up from high current flow. All that current has to find its way back to ground through something. In your case it's probably the transistors. One side of the transistors should be going to ground in order to pull down 12v on the injectors.

     

     

    The current limit function is to protect and properly control low Z injectors... not the drivers.

  11. As I understand it, MS doesn't limit current to the injector for some user-defined period and then switches to pulse width modulation (fancy way of saying it quickly switches the voltage on and off to limit the average current level).

     

     

    Well, not exactly. PWM and current limiting are two independent actions.

     

    Current limiting, with low Z injectors, keeps them from burning up. If you allowed them to draw full current, for more than a short period, they'd fry themselves. Whereas a high Z injector is 'self limiting', so to speak. The advantage of low Z, is a quicker response time... and once they're open, it takes little current to keep them open.

     

    A simplified way to restate PWM is injector 'on time'. The longer time period it is 'on', the more fuel it flows, per injection event. Because MS uses a VE table, PWM is hidden in the background. However, the 'pulse-width' is the actual and *end* variable that dictates fuel volume, per 'squirt'.

  12. just out of curiosity what kind of power numbers are each one of you guys making?

     

    Jacking your own thread? :wink:

     

    For clarification... in general, there won't be any appreciable power gains from brand to brand. There are some occasions where that statement isn't entirely true, but its somewhat rare (and specific). My point is... I believe it would be a mistake to choose one brand over another based on the 'perception' of peak HP.

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