RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Does this mean we can't be friends?
Seriously Chief, Congrats
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I have 79zx and Im trying to find the correct settings for the original tacho in the dash. For whatever reason Im getting no needle movement on all the different settings I have applied.
Tommy,
I have had trouble with zx tachs and aftermarket EMS's. What I normally use is the MSD tach adapter 8920. Assuming Haltech can output a 12v square wave (typical) it should work for you.
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Some model of the Z didn't have O2 sensors.
No statebound S30's got an O2.
In addition you'll need a large fuel feed line.
5/16".
As for the head difference, yes you would have to cut injector holes into the top of the intake ports.
Its not just the injector ports... the bolt pattern is different.
...as the stock Z setup isn't much more than an electronic carburator.
Loosely speaking, you could say that about any EFI system
This '78 EFI schematic may help, Alsil...
One thing to note is that it uses an oil pressure switch for the fuel pump. '75 and '76 used a switch integral to the AFM, '77 and '78 use a specific oil pressure switch.
If you're truly looking for "Barebones", in most cases, you can delete the cold start valve, thermo-time, and altitude switch.... and if you're really bent, the air regulator can go as well (fast idle).
As I mentioned in your crosspost, you'd probably be better off with a Maxima system.
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- MAF sensor (or is it SD?)
Its an AFM (air flow meter)
You'll also need the water temp sensor and TPS.
- EFI tank and fuel lines
Not absolutely necessary BUT you'll pick up air pockets when the fuel level is less than full. Its annoying and hard on the pump. A later tank is the easiest but a surge tank can work as well. The downfall to a late tank is that it doesn't fit quite right... they moved one of the strap locations slightly. I've done it but its a little tacky.
I am thinking about putting this on an L24, but I seem to remember there being a difference between the 2 heads, that you could put the carb manifolds on an L28 head, but not the EFi intake onto an L24...are the heads cut at the intake ports for injectors on the top?
This is true. You'd have to machine your head to accept the EFI, or swap heads.
With this setup correctly, am I looking at it being more efficient than the Su's, better gas mileage, etc? seems like it would be, more controlled mixture, etc.
I'm purely an EFI guy, however if you sent your SU's to Z therapy, they could probably improve your performance and milage substantially. Couple that with a good electronic ignition and 5 speed and you might meet your goals.
I figure that most of the pieces I could pick up at the pick n pull or something, so as long as I get good parts, it would be a solid system.
Biggest thing to watch out for is the connectors... they're so old now that that most of them are broken and corroded. With good connections, you'll find the old L-Jet to be very reliable and consistent.
Another issue to be aware of is that a "Z" EFI system is tuned for an L28. Putting it on an L24 is going to take a LOT of tweaking to get it 'right'. You'd probably be better off pulling a Maxima system.
Be aware that a terrific running system takes time... don't expect to toss it on and get peak perfomance.
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Looking good Bo.
At one time you mentioned extrude honing the intake... do you go that route?
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NARPS valves need cleaning.
We do that here for a small fee.
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Perfect Justin... that be the bulge I was referring to
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damn im 6'4 and i fit fine in my 280z and my zxt
The problem isn't fitting... it's replacing the seats with something that actually woks and still fit's.
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The best solution I've found for an S30 is early C4 Vette seats (pre '90, if memory serves). Thin backed and heavily bolstered.
A fitment exception might be from '74 1/2 on... the tranny buldge might prohibit them. I expect to be test fitting that scenereo this summer.
...36" inseem.
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Idle speed is a function of the correct volume of air... matched by the proper amount of fuel and timing. A 'fuel only' method will buy you nothin but trouble.
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But quick question, you said you had it in wrinkle finish, will the sticker stick to that ?
The adhesive they use is pretty stout... I'm sure it would stick. I probably won't though as I believe the texture will show through.
I'm leaning towards sticking it to an aluminum plate and riveting it on... unless someone has a better idea?
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Wow. Glad you're ok.
One thing that bothers me about the design is the insertion depth of the threaded bung seems overly short. Not implying a longer one would have completely prevented it, but it would seem logical if it were longer and properly fitted, the stresses on the weld might be more manageable.
Actual thread engagement might be an issue as well. I would not normally run less than at least 1.5 times the diameter of the thread engaged.
Is this area bent?...
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I decided to bite the bullet and have an actual sticker made. Signs Now did a nice job, affordably...
I designed the label on CAD, printed it actual size, they scanned it and reproduced it verbatim. Doing a single costs a bit... $15 set-up and approx. $4.5 each sticker made, thereafter. The results were worth it, IMO.
Testing the waters, I also had them do a small batch of interior window stickers... this could get addictive...
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In most cases, you should be adjusting it to run the car properly, with little regard for 'book resistance'.
I bet if you spend some time searching, you'll find a good deal of info regarding adjusting AFM's.
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I'll prolly try a few diff arrangments b4 i settle
2+2 b4?
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...and he gave it up for golf
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I've done return-less systems a couple times, but they still require regulators. The only way you're going to skip the regulator is by modulating fuel pressure electrically, via the fuel pump.
One example is this car...
It doesn't appear to be regulated, but it is... its remote mounted.
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so how does one remove those screws?
Drill them out from the front side and re-tap larger for re-assembly.
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Best... HybridZ or Zcar.com?
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even the mounting tabs?
Z32 CAS... look familiar?...
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Tamper resistant screws....
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so the problem is theres 360 little holes with the stock trigger wheel, and the remedy is the new one with xxx holes?
A good way to attack this is what Wolf call's Reference+Sync. This involves running a crank and cam sensor. The crank sensor provides the accuracy, while the cam sensor provides the sync pulse for which event cylinder one is on.
For example, running a 12 or 36 toothed wheel on the crank damper with a single tooth on the cam... the single tooth has no direct influence on timing, so it can 'scatter' to some degree, while the crank sensor is providing accurate positional information.
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From what I can tell, that one is built identically to the Z32 CAS.
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Your story is all too common... welcome to the 30+ year old Datsun.
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240 tach is current triggered (pos. side of coil) and 260/280's are voltage triggered (neg. side of coil), as are most aftermarket tachs.
BRAPP's turned red!
in Non Tech Board
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