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Posts posted by RTz
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When it was unplugged (zero vacuum) it went to 36-38. So this is normal then?
Yes.
As long as it is correct when under a load is important?
Yes... sort of... based on your description, your fuel pressure is pretty high with the vacuum line attached. This *implies* that your engine is not making much vacuum.
At this point, I'd recommend buying a cheap vacuum gauge and letting us know what your idle vacuum reads.
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And have a beer (just one) on me.
I sincerely apologize for exceeding your ration
Send me the bill too.
I think that's my line
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When you set high goals, failure is a noble effort.
When you set middling goals, failure or success is...well...mediocre.
Perfect.
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How many threads are you going to argue the same thing? Its tired, pointless... and full of holes.
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One thing EVERYBODY should do, is test their coolant with a Litmus Strip. You should be slightly basic (above 7.5) Usually 7.5 to 10 is what you will shoot for... If it's below that point, it's acidic (duh) and will exacerbate the dissimilar metals (alunminum / cast iron) issue as well.
Tony,
Isn't this similar to sticking a DVM probe in the coolant and checking for voltage? If so, what's a realistic acceptable voltage level?
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Little do you guys know they left the burners on the ground and Mike provided all the hot air needed to fly the balloon.
:lmao:
Looks like terrific fun! Happy Anni!
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Which car did you add the switches to? The black 280z?
You're 'prolly gonna bust my chops... I sold the 'Black Pearl' to a young lady at church... she'll be joining HZ before long
This Wolf system is going in my 260z that I bought back in January... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118747
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Joe,
If you're set to 38psi at idle, it sounds like you don't have the vacuum source on the regulator? If you do, and its functioning correctly, that seems like an awfully high 'base' fuel pressure.
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Raff,
I buy from waytekwire.com. My volume justifies buying them in bulk, which is the only way they sell them.
If you just need a couple let me know and I'll forward them to you.
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♥♥♥♥ ♥♥♥♥ ♥♥♥♥ ♥♥♥♥
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Thanks guy's.
I'll bet you burned some hours on itNot counting the two trips to the electronics house, there's pretty close to 10 hours in it... not exactly 'Datsun frugal' if you factor in your hourly wages
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Thanks Guy's.
For what its worth, I'm no longer having birthday's... just celebrating anniversaries of my 28th birthday
Cheers
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Tossing an idea out...
I wanted access to a few switches, readily available to the driver, without being readily visible. After a few moments thought, I decided the ashtray would fit the requirements.
Now you see them...
Now you don't....
Five switches, and a serial port fit comfortably in the tray. They serve a variety of functions, simply for convenience sake.
Briefly, the serial port is a remote port for laptop communication with a Wolf3D system, along with a couple overrides (Thermo Fan, EMS, Map's), along with audible 'over temp.' alarm bypass and test function.
.
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Eventually, a label will reside between them, listing their function.
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If we were at a car show and someone comes up to you and asks about something on your ride and you blurt out "SEARCH".
I do
OK seriously, you have some valid points but, like JohnC said, its part of life. If you're expecting to get along with everyone, you're expectations might need some amending. I believe one of HZ's rules is 'thick skin'... its a good rule.
Why not treat people like they are standing rite in front of you and not on the other end of a cable modum.
That goes both way's... If *I* say something that pisses you off, then it would be mistake to judge the entire group. This sort of thing happens all the time... somebody gets bent over a couple of 'flagrant members' and all of a sudden the whole group 'is to blame'.
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Grumpy, I hate to tell you this but that aint no damn spider. Not even sure its from this planet. The only thing I do know is that its friggin ugly!
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Ignition system looks HAWT
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Echo the above sentiments.
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CB1...
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954RR...
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So is there a cheap solution...
$8.75 at Summit buy's you the real deal...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RED%2D80204&N=700+115&autoview=sku
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i moderate on other boards too and have never seen one so "tunnel visioned"
Perhaps you're confusing 'tunnel vision' with structure.
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In the state of Washington, I've noticed road signs that say "Watch for Fog"... I never realized I had a choice in the matter.
The road I live on say's "Watch for Ice"... I usually look in my cup.
Another of my favorites... my wife often say's, after asking her a question... "Probably, for sure". So, "which is it?" I usually ask. Somehow I never get points for that one
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What is the factory caster at?
Assuming your car is unmodified, the FSM say's a 280z is between 2 deg.-3min., to 3 deg.-33 min... In my experience, 3 deg. should be pretty close to nominal.
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but the one thing i haven't done is an engine swap.
First time for everything
Do you have in your possession the JTR book? Its entirely relevant to the majority of the info that you seek. Mechanically, its nearly identical to a carb'd swap... and where its not, is obvious.
I honestly don't see what would be too too hard about doing a LT1 swap. What exactly are you getting modified on the harness when you send it out? Besides that, what else would you have to do electrical wise if you had an engine with a full wiring harness?
When I converted mine, I didn't have the funds to buy or pay someone to modify the harness. I weeded through it wire-by-wire with the service manual. Its not difficult, just time consuming. The upside is that you'll know the system (and your car) very well indeed. If you have spare funds but time is a factor, I'd recommend an aftermarket harness such as Painless Wiring. If you have funds & time, I'd recommend a standalone system. Keep in mind that a standalone will likely consume more time than the V8 conversion itself.
Exotic "SOUNDING", high revving V8! Read "ENTIRE" thread before posting!!!
in Other V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Suhweeet!