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RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

    Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?

    in L-Series

    Posted

    One thing EVERYBODY should do, is test their coolant with a Litmus Strip. You should be slightly basic (above 7.5) Usually 7.5 to 10 is what you will shoot for... If it's below that point, it's acidic (duh) and will exacerbate the dissimilar metals (alunminum / cast iron) issue as well.

     

    Tony,

     

    Isn't this similar to sticking a DVM probe in the coolant and checking for voltage? If so, what's a realistic acceptable voltage level?

    Potential EMS Auxiliary Switch location.

    in Other EMS

    Posted

    Tossing an idea out...

     

    I wanted access to a few switches, readily available to the driver, without being readily visible. After a few moments thought, I decided the ashtray would fit the requirements.

     

    Now you see them...

     

    NowYouSeeIt.jpg

     

    Now you don't....

     

    NowYouDont.jpg

     

     

     

    Five switches, and a serial port fit comfortably in the tray. They serve a variety of functions, simply for convenience sake.

     

    Briefly, the serial port is a remote port for laptop communication with a Wolf3D system, along with a couple overrides (Thermo Fan, EMS, Map's), along with audible 'over temp.' alarm bypass and test function.

     

     

     

    SwitchPanelB.jpg

    .

    .

    SwitchPanel.jpg

     

    Eventually, a label will reside between them, listing their function.

    search Search SEARCH!!!!!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    If we were at a car show and someone comes up to you and asks about something on your ride and you blurt out "SEARCH".

     

    I do :-)

     

    OK seriously, you have some valid points but, like JohnC said, its part of life. If you're expecting to get along with everyone, you're expectations might need some amending. I believe one of HZ's rules is 'thick skin'... its a good rule.

     

    Why not treat people like they are standing rite in front of you and not on the other end of a cable modum.

     

    That goes both way's... If *I* say something that pisses you off, then it would be mistake to judge the entire group. This sort of thing happens all the time... somebody gets bent over a couple of 'flagrant members' and all of a sudden the whole group 'is to blame'.

    Weird Words / Sayings

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    In the state of Washington, I've noticed road signs that say "Watch for Fog"... I never realized I had a choice in the matter.

     

    The road I live on say's "Watch for Ice"... I usually look in my cup.

     

    Another of my favorites... my wife often say's, after asking her a question... "Probably, for sure". So, "which is it?" I usually ask. Somehow I never get points for that one .

    Little bit of help for the noob!

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    but the one thing i haven't done is an engine swap.

     

    First time for everything :wink:

     

    Do you have in your possession the JTR book? Its entirely relevant to the majority of the info that you seek. Mechanically, its nearly identical to a carb'd swap... and where its not, is obvious.

     

     

    I honestly don't see what would be too too hard about doing a LT1 swap. What exactly are you getting modified on the harness when you send it out? Besides that, what else would you have to do electrical wise if you had an engine with a full wiring harness?

     

    When I converted mine, I didn't have the funds to buy or pay someone to modify the harness. I weeded through it wire-by-wire with the service manual. Its not difficult, just time consuming. The upside is that you'll know the system (and your car) very well indeed. If you have spare funds but time is a factor, I'd recommend an aftermarket harness such as Painless Wiring. If you have funds & time, I'd recommend a standalone system. Keep in mind that a standalone will likely consume more time than the V8 conversion itself.

    Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?

    in L-Series

    Posted

    Should the conclusion from your testing be that the Water Wetter may have somehow improved cooling in the cylinder head to the point that detonation was reduced?

     

    Thats my assumption.

     

    I'm not sure if this is the best way to explain it... if you put a drop of water on a HOT frying pan, the water will dance about and never touch the pan. A vapor barrier quickly forms between the two and acts as an insulator. As I understand it, water wetter alters the surface tension of water and reduces the propensity for the vapor barrier to form.

     

    I don't know how accurate that description is, but its not hard for me to imagine this vapor barrier being formed above a chamber (even if localized), and the subsequent 'overheating' of the chamber walls.

    Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?

    in L-Series

    Posted

    I ran a simple experiment with water wetter. I thought the results we worth sharing.

     

    Preface... I frequently run a pretty aggressive timing curve, with around 38 deg. total timing on stock comp. ratio. In the past, this has required the exclusive use of premium fuel. Any L6 I've run with this ignition tune, using regular unleaded, produces significant audible detonation.

     

    The experiment was to run aggressive timing on regular unleaded, with and without water wetter.

     

    With 85+ deg. ambient, WOT, up hill, fully warmed and premium fuel, day after day, My 260z produces no audible knock. I let the tank run nearly dry, and refilled with reg. unleaded. True to form, it rattled fiercely. Sounded like a diesel truck up every hill from the pump to my shop. I poured a 12oz bottle of water wetter in the system, and drove the car again, same conditions, 24 hours later, for 2 hours.... with no audible knock. This is the first time I've ever run that much timing on reg. fuel an not heard detonation, carb'd or injected.

     

    The only exception was extended periods of abuse... 2nd gear, WOT, 5000rpm steady, holding the brakes. After about 8 or 10 seconds audible knock would creep in and get worse with time. Let the car coast for 10 seconds and do it again... no knock initially, but again, after 8 seconds or so, it would creep back in.

     

    The test is far too crude to prove anything, but does raise an eyebrow. In my eye's it deserves a second look.

     

    P.S. The test car... L26, mild cam, mild exhaust, poorly tuned Holley 390, Magnecor wires, mid-range coil, and one of the most stable cooling systems I’ve witnessed in a Z. I haven’t verified the accuracy of the gauge, but it reads about 165.... and stay’s there. Once up to temp, it never fluctuates more than +/- 1/4 needle width under any condition I’ve subjected it to, including all the above testing.

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