RTz

Maybe a solar incident. Here's how I found it... . I ended up taking both of them home... the orange car is vin number 2848...

Going through some old photo's... . Needless to say, the passerby's had sore necks

I nixed that page a couple years ago. I still have a copy of it... looking through it, the majority of it was mostly opinion. Here's a clipping... "Its factory-car quiet, almost vibration free (I suspect it will be completely vibe free after a pinion angle adjustment), Very quick through first gear, resonably quick through the remaining gears. Power is a bit soft in the lower rev range but comes on nicely as revs build. Pulls well to 5000 RPM. Very drivable/managable daily driver. Steering effort has dropped noticeably and the car gained some toe in....this leads me to believe that I have lost some front end weight...Will verify soon. G-tech Pro indicated 0-60 on average of 5.09 seconds with a 1/4 mi. in 14.00@100.8 MPH. I hope to take to the strip later this year for an official time. I am projecting good 60 foot times with a mid to high 14 second run. All in all I'm pleased with the power this motor delivers especially considering its age." Thank you

Agreed. I believe its a combination of "While I'm at it" and, maybe worse, "Keeping up with the Jones's "... For the record, this car was not fast by modern standards, however it was substantially quicker than the stock L28. A hoot to drive, and relatively speaking, fairly quiet.

In ‘97, having recently completed a turbo L28 in my ‘72 240, I drove Braap’s newly completed 12 sec. SBC 280Z. While my turbo project was very underdeveloped, I enjoyed the ‘simplicity’ of the SBC. I decided, nearly overnight, to build an LT1/T56 Z. Three months later, the 240 morphed into the following... . . . Drivetrain... 1995 LT1. 1995 Borge-Warner T56 6-speed Transmission. Aluminum Chevy U-jointed driveshaft (compliments of Driveline Service of Eugene, Or) Skyline 3.90 Limited slip Diff. (shimmed to 45-50 ft/lbs breakaway). 280ZX Turbo CV jointed half-shafts. Diff. nose mount rebuilt to top of diff. Exhaust... Hooker ceramic block hugger headers. 1 1/2" x 3 3/4" rectangular dual exhaust. 3" Walker /Dynomax muffler. Brakes... 79-81 280ZX rear calipers. 82-83 280ZX rear rotors. Early 280ZX master cylinder. S.S. braided brake lines front and rear. Porterfeild R4-S pads front and rear. Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. Factory proportioning valve gutted. Fuel System... 9 gallon aluminum fuel tank (12lbs). Paxton fuel pump. Paxton fuel filter. Suspension... 225 in/lb (coil over w/camber plates) front springs. 300 in/lb rear springs. 1" front sway bar . 7/16" rear swaybar. Adjustable front control arms (with rod ends). Polyurathane bushings everywhere, exept T/C rods. Aluminum/Teflon T/C rod bushings. Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks (shortened). "Bump steer" spacers. Rear suspension uprights replaced with one piece 1/4" alluminum plate. Adjustable rear toe. Wheels/Tires... 15x7 Panasports (17lbs). 225/50/15 Kuhmo V700 (victa-racers) (23 lbs). Interior... Momo "Monte Carlo" steering wheel. Autometer Monster speedo and tach. 280Z voltmeter. Halmeter air/fuel ratio meter. '93 Toyota Paseo seats. Exterior... European front turn signals/parking. Bosch headlights. Chin spoiler. Shaved vent emblem. Misc... 84-86 Camaro radiator (8lbs). 16" Hayden electric fan. 7/8" Tilton clutch master cylinder. S.S. braided clutch line. 1" tubing welded from front upper strut towers to hood latch area. 1" alluminum rear strut tower brace. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. K&N air filter. Dry weight 2420 lbs. Weight dist. 49/51 F/R. Unfortunatly, this Z was built some time ago... mistakes made, lessons learned, memories faded, and pictures lost... sigh. I owned this Z longer than any other. It underwent various changes, most with an autocross focus. A few for cosmetics sake. This Z helped drag home many trophies and FTD’s. Sadly, she no longer exists. It was parted out to start a machine shop... RIP.

The goal was to see how inexpensively I could swap in a generic SBC. I already had possession of a '88 Caprice Interceptor... 350 with 700R4... Sometime around ‘02 I bought one of Braap’s project chassis for $500... sold the L28 and EFI for $200. The engine compartment as purchased.... . The donor... . A bit of bay cleanup... . Engine clean up.... . Ron Davis Radiator w/integral trans. cooler... . Test fit.... . . Edelbrock 600 w/Lokar linkage..... . A quiet Dual 2” into single 2.5.... . Ready to run... . The result.... . . . Budget.... Z $300.00 Ron Davis Radiator/Tranny Cooler $270.00 JTR Motor Mounts/Adapters $150.00 Derale 16" Electric Fan (2,175 CFM) $120.00 Exhaust System $500.00 HEI Distributor $150 Driveline $100 Lokar Throttle Cable $26.00 Ceramic Coated Headers $262.00 Edelbrock "Performer" Intake $150.00 Edelbrock 1406 (600CFM) Carb/Air Cleaner $242.00 GM motor/trans mounts $106.00 Misc. Hoses/Bolts/Clamps/Fluids $250 Total $2626

Apologies for the thread jack... I thought another hybrid 318 might be of interest... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/257358153.html

I considered the same thing... makes intercooling straightforward as well. Here are a few picts of an early Eaton M90 I picked up on ebay for a fair price... . . . . Weighs 21lbs on my atomic bathroom scale.

:rockon:

Thats refereing to turn-in on the brakes which could be a different scenario? To use an example... slaloming in an autocross vs. corner entry on a road corse. Seems like two different types of turn-in... am I looking at it wrong? Cool... I'm glad I'm not the only one that feels that way

I can email you a .dxf file if that will help. I choose to use 1" largely to allow room for the injectors to be machined (into the 45deg. back cut). With carb's you could use thinner material. I wouldn't use anything less than 1/2", but I'd probably recommend 5/8" if you're going to use aluminum.

I am currently building an EFI manifold... I have included the head flange dimensions here... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117607 A couple things to keep in mind... Carb'd heads have their upper mount bolts in a different location than EFI heads. Also, I have shifted the ports up slightly for improved entry. Using those dimensions with .125" wall tubing will put the floor of the runner at the same 'elevation' as the floor of the port.

Proof of the Divine, right there

Hi impedance are refered to as 'saturated'. This means a constant current is supplied for the duration of 'on time'. Low impeadance are 'peak & holds'. This means they are initally allowed to draw full current and then, shortly after, are current limited to keep from overheating. The idea is to get them open quickly. Once opened they require much less current to hold them open. The primary advantage, especially with large flow rates/high fuel pressures, is quicker response than saturated injectors. Make sure your ECM is compatible with low impedance before running them. Its probably not what you want to hear, but if it were me, I'd think hard about having the manifold machined for O-ring injectors. You'll have many more choices in rates/patterns/price.

Jon, I Apologize if I came across as antagonistic. I generally agree with your statement. I even went so ar as to move an L6 reward 14"... I was just trying to make the point that there can be favorable traits to a front biased car.

I can't believe you guy's are arguing over Transformers and Tom & Jerry. Everyone knows the BEST cartoon is Finding Nemo. Get real guys. Sheesh

Nice vid. That one made its rounds on S14.net a few weeks ago. I have a few more E30 M3 vid's. If someone wants to host them, I'll share?

I think thats why the word "balance" was invented

According to Milliken and Milliken, increasing front weight distribution normally improves turn-in. Page 401... "Turn-in will be improved as the CG is moved forward and the front tires do more of the cornering" I am familiar with the car/driver that Savage is refering to... he's beat me more times than I have beaten him, unfortunately Agreed, set-up is KEY. There is more than what's obvious in this post, but thats true of virtually every developed car. The C5/C6 has the transimission coupled to the diff so the PMOI is somewhat arguable in this case.

Look who's talking

Jon, Your Z may be 'behind schedule', but you can certainly sleep well knowing that you've helped countless others!

Hi, A few years back, there was a Camden kit that included an intake manifold, 80 cu/in SC (if I recall correctly) and TB injection. You may be able to find a used model?

I may be speaking out of turn, but the impression I got was that it was largely done for wow factor.

Justin, I'm not yet married to mine... keep me posted on the flange, it may be beneficial to split costs?!?!?

The bolt I quoted is from a '76 280, with factory A/C.