billseph

I sent you an e-mail. If you're in Bakes I could deliver it to you Saturday.

Okay, sounds easy enough. Once I get the painting of my suspension finished and I can put the rearend all back together I'll see if I have clearance issues or binding hoses, then I'll report back. Hopefully all goes well and I get it right the first time.

So I've done a lot of looking around on the web and at the links that rossman supplied. Do the 240sx calipers NEED banjo fittings to function?? Is this type of fitting the only way that will work? I have not found the appropriate thread size and pitch out yet for the braided lines I have (for stock S30 rear brakes) and the 240sx calipers I have...just haven't made time yet (I was planning on just going to the hardware store and finding a bolt that fit the threads and making note of it (I assume I'll find the correct size...right??) I guess what I boils down to is this...Is there any other fitting or adapter I can use or am I going to absolutely have to use banjo fittings and get new lines to connect the 240sx calipers to the Z rear hardlines? Thanks for the reply rossman...I'm just a little confused since I bought a halfway pieced together setup and this is my first time working on a brake upgrade.

Thanks again for all the info guys. 1977 280Z that was a very nice written illustration of exactly how to place those bushings. It makes perfect sense to place everything in that order now, and that is what I'll be doing.

Hi guys. I purchased this Modern Motorsports rear disk package used from a guy a while ago that came with the hangers for the 240sx rear calipers, the calipers themselves, and some braided lines (I assume for stock front and rear S30 brakes). My question is due to the fact that there were no fittings for attaching the brake lines to the calipers, they were just sealed off with some little pieces of paper stuffed in. The guy said I just needed to get an adapter to fit the lines to the caliper, but I recently read on here that the 240sx brakes are supposed to have banjo fittings and that the MM package when purchased new comes with the proper soft lines and fittings to hook up to the 240sx caliper. So I was looking at different fittings online...finding out what banjo fittings are and what not and saw these inverted flare adapters that would appear to meet my needs for fitting the flared end of the braided earl's brake line and then the other end would just screw into the hole in my 240sx caliper. Would these fittings work for what I need to do?? And if a yes does anyone know offhand what size would be right? I do not know the exact year 240sx the calipers came off of. Thanks guys.

Perfect...thanks for the info. Mine were a bear to get off and one of the endlinks bent from me wrenching so hard, so I'm glad a bolt will work in it's place.

Would this be the correct order for placing the washers and bushings in when mounting the swaybar? If this is wrong can someone please correct me via a picture or just spell it out in writing. I goofed and didn't pay attention when I took this stuff apart. Also while I'm asking questions...is it okay to use a bolt instead of these stock threaded pieces? Could you just use two washer things with a spacer of the appropriate length sandwiched between them. I'm wanting to see if this okay before I go get some grade 8 bolts for the job (would grade 8 be appropriate or overkill??) Something like this...

http://www.motortopia.com/files/11549/album_datsuncompetitionhoodvent/4df7c7fc988db/IMG_0991sml.jpg I'm looking for a stance similar to this...maybe a little lower if possible. Anyone know if this car looks to be significantly lowered compared to stock?? The one Z I have with suspension on it is WORN OUT, so I dont know what to compare to. Thanks for all the input you guys have given.

How much shipped to 93561...long way from FL.

As the title says, I am in need of stock rear LCA's for my 1972 240Z. Im thinking they're the same for all S30's though. Im located halfway between Bakersfield and Lancaster CA. Let me know what you all have. I know some guys have entire rear assemblies for sale but I really just need the LCA's. I'd do an entire rear ass'y only if it's close enough to come pick up and reasonably priced. Thanks.

I looked into sourcing them through car-part.com and can maybe get some for about $50 for a pair...haven't called any of the yards to verify. Is an there online source what you were referring to?? I don't have any real good junkyards that are going to have a supply of S30's near me...I'd be looking at a several drive just one way. Also guys any opinions on doing KYB vs. non-adjustable Tokico for struts?? Wanting to know if the Tokico HP are worth the extra $200 over the KYB's. Also I'll throw this out there...anyone know if I'll NEED to go with coilovers to get the car low enough to fill out the look of ZG flares well. I don't want to cut coils on lowering springs if it's gonna screw my ride quality up...I don't need cushy, but I dint want bone-jarring...I know there's much more to it than just ride height. I don't WANT to go with coilovers since I'm not interested in dialing in the performance of the suspension and they are quite expensive to upgrade to...I just want something with nice aesthetics and a nice ride quality.

Hey guys. I'm starting in on refreshing the suspension on my 72 240Z and I need some opinions. The car I purchased to work on was just a shell with most of the suspension (front and rear) one thing I did not get with the car were rear LCA's. I'm doing a street car build so suspension is staying essentially stock for now (with the exception of new urethane bushings all around, eibach progressive springs, and new struts (probably KYB via MSA's site, possibly non-adjustable Tokicos although they're about $200 more than the KYB option...opinions on these strut differences welcome please). Anyways my main question us whether or not I should try to source some stock rear LCA's or spend $450 for TTT's adjustable ones. I was all set on getting TTT's so I didn't have to deal with the spindle pin if I ever do more suspension work, but today I was looking through the FAQ's and found that due to the lack of bushings at the hub end of the TTT LCA's that it will transfer quite a bit of noise and require somewhat frequent inspection if the car is being driven hard. I would love to buy the TTT units but wanted feedback if having stock suspension other than these rear LCA's will really be THAT noisy or if I'll need to worry about a large Grade 8 bolt (vs a stock spindle pin)breaking on me during street driving (plus I am having trouble finding JUST stock rear LCA's locally) I'm just hurrying along wanting to get this car on the ground and don't want to waste money if I don't need to. Thanks guys.

Thanks NewZed...should be able to handle it now.

I need to remove the large poly bushings in the front control arm that had been installed by the PO of my 240Z and do not know how I get them out...can someone please give me advice...I don't want to mess them up. I have another control arm that the bushings have not been installed into and can see that something special has to be done to get them in because the OD of the bushing looks to be about 2 mm larger than the ID of the hope it goes into. Will someone with the knowledge tell me how to get these bushings in AND out...I'm sure it's simple, but I don't have a clue what to do.

You the man Joe! Thanks for getting this whole thing going.

Rags, I wanted to confirm a couple things with you...you said you were donating a pair of door panels, are these panels being made for us going to be for 70-76 style doors??(I understand the 77-78 door panels are COMPLETELY different. Also, will I be able to get a set of the custom door pulls made for an additional cost?? Thanks.

Sent you an email regarding getting a barbed rail with port and gauge. Thanks

Man I would LOVE a pair...I really hope enough interest gets drummed up. Would the 280Z panels work for my 240Z??

Don't have a link, but a 280zx gets t-boned in the trailer for "30 Minutes or Less"

Here it comes...

I haven't run into this but I'm in the process of upping the boost of my L28ET right now and you can't forget to plug the factory pop-off valve at the rear of the intake manifold or put a tighter spring in it. This is supposed to be set from the factory to vent excess of 9 psi. I know it's obvious but I'm throwing it out there.

That's a neat video.

The "head unit" is the reciever for his stereo system...the thing you put CD's into.

73 240z with MSA 3-2-1 headers.

I had basically no problems installing mine with the clamps that were supplied in the kit and if you need to do a little cutting it is very easy. I'd say with minor mechanical skills this is an easy project...especially when installing to fit with headers, my fitment was near perfect. Back when I did mine in highschool I hacked up the rollpan where the tips exit to raise the tips up a bit (bad idea in retrospect). I could have avoided this by taking 10 minutes to make a longer bracket for the glasspacks to hang from, but hey I was 17 and had my mind set on the "easy" way. Long story short...in my opinion this is a "fairly" easy install, no welding required if you wanna use the clamps...but of course welding would ultimately be a cleaner look and you wouldn't have to worry about the clamps letting loose ever.