morbias

Definitely not 240z hubs; 240z hubs are scalloped. Measure the section the wheel studs go through -- it should be 25mm for 260z/280z hubs and 22mm for 280zx

wow, awesome pictures

Can you not use a rear steer rack from a right-hand drive car and just turn it upside down?

Looks like it turned out ok, but I have to ask... why didn't you mask anything off?

Have you adjusted the fuel/air mix? Sounds like it could just be running too lean.

http://www.frpautomotive.com/frp_price_list_page.html scuttle panel; FRP, carbon covered FRP or full carbon. They are based in the UK though, not sure if LHD versions are available.

They are a pain in the ass, you need to find an open ended wrench with as thin an end as possible, then rotate the driveshaft until you get as much clearance as possible to work with. I'm sure you've already figured most of that out

If you're painting POR-15 on new metal you have to clean it with degreaser first, and then soak the hell out of it with metal ready (or whatever it's called now) to etch the surface, otherwise it will just peel off. You really have to do it as they suggest or you'll end up re-doing it all again.

I'm in the process of completely dismantling my 260 to check for potentially dangerous stuff. I've already found the rear brake linings were detached from the shoes, countless splices in the looms that are just twisted together loosely, ignition wiring was all completely wrong, fuel lines not clamped and float bowl gaskets missing resulting in fuel spraying everywhere, and the driveshafts on each side of the car were only attached with 2 nuts instead of four -- and they weren't even torqued up, I unscrewed them by hand! I also need to buy a battery tray

http://www.frpautomotive.com/frp_price_list_page.html Not sure what shipping from the UK would be Full carbon fibre racing shell available if you have the cash

I still suspect a faulty flasher unit. Make sure you have the correct type, the stock units for hazards / turn signals aren't interchangeable - I tried a hazard flasher unit on the turn signal circuit and it doesn't work. Out of interest, have you replaced your turn signal bulbs with LEDs? If so then there won't be enough current draw for the turn signal flasher unit to switch on and off; but when the hazards are operating, all the turn signal lamps would be activated and the current draw would probably be enough.

I have 2" SU carbs and only the stock mechanical fuel pump and it most definitely pushes enough fuel. In fact the first time I started it up there was fuel gushing absolutely everywhere as one of the fuel lines wasn't clamped properly to the float bowl. Do you get any backfiring out of the carbs?

You can connect a load resistor in parallel to one of the indicator LEDs on each side of the car, that should give enough current for the stock flasher unit to switch.

Just to clarify, the LED bulb units I used have resistors built in so the LEDs don't burn out.

The link is broken

There are some easy to use pre-built PWM controllers on ebay if anyone is interested: PWM controller

I have to agree, you don't have to assume everyone is ignorant of the facts. Just for the record I do know how a diode works, about pulse width modulation (though the rheostat is bypassed as I don't care about the dimming function), and electronic vs thermal flashers (I'm doing my turn signals too). The sockets on the tach being wired up back to front wasn't exactly the most obvious thing especially since the colour coding was essentially correct. I thank you for the advice but I'm sure you could be a little less condescending And yes, the engine electrics are a mess, I haven't had time to look at them yet. Looks like I'll have to unwrap the whole engine harness though as the wires aren't colour coded as per the FSM EDIT: The ballast resistor was bypassed as you suggested, I unwrapped the harness and wired it all up correctly (the FSM was wrong and had the wrong wire colours!) and now the tach is working perfectly, so thanks again

I've no idea if it came like this from the factory or not, the weird thing is the wire colour codes were correct (as in; wired identically to the other dash bulb sockets). The LEDs I used were these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260320180937&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT They needed filing down so they would fit in the bulb housings, here's how much I needed to take off: This is one of the two LED bulbs I had to take apart to reverse for the tach: pretty easy to do, only took 10 minutes to do both. The dials look really good in green, I couldn't get a picture because the camera on my phone is useless in the dark.

Problem solved, the sockets for the tach bulbs were wired backwards; I took apart the LED units for the tach and reversed the polarity, then soldered them up again. Worked a treat! Thanks for the imput guys

You can't put them in backwards, they are the bulb type. EDIT: like this ...unless for some weird reason the sockets have been wired back to front on the tach and not the other dials. I'll have a look tomorrow when the sun comes out.

Yes, the other lights work with no bulbs in the tach, according to the FSM they are wired in parallel which is why I have no clue why they don't work

Well without taking the dash apart and soldering new connections I can't do that, and really I'm not that bothered but I still don't see why the other LEDs in the dash work because they are all on the same circuit (unless I am mistaken?)

The thing is the other LEDs on the circuit work fine; it's as if the tach has a resistor in line to the LEDs causing them not to light. I'm thinking I might just give up and get a couple of green bulbs for the tach.

Today I replaced the bulbs in my dash with LEDs, they all work apart from the two that illuminate the tach. If I swap the bulbs back in, the bulbs work fine. As far as I'm aware the illumination lights for the tach are on the same circuit as the rest of the dash lights, so I don't know why they aren't lighting up. Dunno if it's worth mentioning but the tach isn't working, there's an unplugged wire near the coil which I assume is the tach. When it's plugged in to the negative terminal the car won't start, so I left it unplugged. I can't see this having anything to do with the dash lights though. Does anyone know what the problem could be? The car is an early 74 260z.