morbias

There's also the zap 280z package from '77, pretty sure the stripes were matt finish on that

Why not replace the injector lines first and see if it stops the problem (before you set the whole thing on fire!) And definitely replace the engine oil before running it again, I would imagine it is contaminated and won't be lubricating very well.

sounds like the engine is running too lean; maybe fuel starvation due to bad injectors or crap in the fuel tank or lines

It's not shaved, that's how they originally look over here

voltage regulator?

You could try wedging a piece of foam between the bottom of the door and the sill, then get inside and do the bolts up. The door will probably sag a little even if your hinges are rebuilt so make sure it's sitting a bit higher than it should be. It's still mostly trial and error though

Pretty sure it's the other way around The original colour is that gunmetal grey, but most people just respray in black once it starts looking like crap (at least that was my excuse)

I would check the junction box under the dash where the dash harness connects to the engine harness. The rear turn signal lamps have their own ground so are effectively on their own circuit, the indicator lamp in the dash and the front turn signal lamp share a ground so any break in the connection between the gauge and the front lamp will cause both not to function but leave the rear lamp unaffected. I'm pretty sure the rear lamp branches off from the indicator lamp in the dash right before the junction box so it would be logical that there is a break somewhere from the junction box forwards, I'd check the connections in the junction box first.

check fuses and fusible links

So many double entendres, must... resist...

I still don't see how you can tell if it's definitely going to work without knowing the full specs of the engine being built. Surely the carb needed is going to have a lot to do with the cam being used. If I was the OP I would try it and see, and if the standard carbs aren't up to it then look for something bigger.

It's funny how you jump in just to be condescending. I only made a suggestion based on SU recommendations, but apparently that means I don't know how to tune a carb?

It sounds like you might have the wrong booster, apparently they changed them to a wider diameter at some point

I'm from the UK and I disagree with the suing culture, but in this case the guy got totally screwed over

Why don't you take legal action against them?

The proper tool is 'gland packing wrench ST355000031' according to the FSM, also known as 'the biggest pipe wrench you can find'. To remove the bearings you need some sort of drift, about 6-8" long and preferably made of soft metal (eg. copper). Using a hammer with the drift you can tap the bearings out, but be careful not to damage the walls of the inner hub. If you look into the hub you'll see cut-outs where you can position the end of the drift on the races. Separating the rotor from the hub can be a bit of a chore. Make sure you take out the bolts first If you don't have access to a press then your only option is a bucketload of PB blaster on the areas where the rotor meets the hub, let it soak, give it a few good whacks from a rubber mallet and then repeat about a million times over. If you still can't get it to move then you might have to resort to tapping a chisel in between the hub and rotor but I wouldn't recommend that as you could damage the hub. The best option is to find a press, it will save a lot of wasted time and effort.

Maybe pick up some 2" SUs if you are intent on running that type of carb

If the regulator only has five pins then I would start looking at what connection is missing there.

At the risk of sounding like a smartass, have you tried the classifieds section?

POR 15 and Ospho are two different things. POR 15 is a rust encapsulating isocyanate paint, Ospho is a rustkiller using Phosphoric acid as a base. There is also Metal Ready (or whatever it's called now) in the POR range which is basically phosphoric acid in a spray bottle. Both Ospho and Metal Ready will kill rust and etch any metal they touch, you should use one of these before painting as the metal will have a protective coating on it as well as making the primer stick better. Metal Ready is meant to be washed off with water and then immediately dried, Ospho isn't -- though I would do it anyway as you end up with a bit of a powdery surface otherwise. If you use POR 15 then make sure you dust coat it with primer after it's flashed but before it cures.

What weight oil are you running?

Installing polyurethane bushings is no different from replacing stock bushings for the most part, except maybe having to cut outer shells out of the control arms and the need to grease everything with urethane grease. Try here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm have fun with the spindle pins

Just a headsup, there are a pair of the real deal on eBay right now! Who knows what the bidding is going to end at

Ball joint kit for the strut rod? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-T-C-Kit-2851610-G-Machine-/260818283646#vi-content

If it was me I'd leave it until it was time to get it colour sprayed, it's a pain in the ass to topcoat POR 15 once it's cured. Best way is to dust coat the primer over it as soon as it's flashed, if it's fully cured then you have to sand it meticulously before spraying anything over it. I don't think the discolouration affects the sealing properties of POR 15, it just looks a bit strange.