morbias

Yeah that's me, I read various Z car sites but only post on a couple! I would avoid zcar to be honest, most new people seem to get mauled for no good reason over there I haven't sorted my suspension out yet, I'm planning on getting the rest of the car finished first so I know what I have to work with weight wise. Thinking of making up my own adjustable setup with the Rally Design stuff, effectively the same as the Ground Control setup but a fraction of the cost.

riske - you can build up your own adjustable setup with parts from Rally Design here in the UK, it will cost a fraction of what other solutions are priced at. http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=2243_2244 You'll need sectioned struts and some really short shocks rather than the usual AW11 rear shocks, I think people have used VW Golf or Integra shocks for seriously lowered cars, not sure what year/model they were from though. Also roll center adapters (bump steer spacers) to get the control arms back to a reasonable angle. Drifting is not going to happen unless you do some extensive modifications to the front suspension, you just can't get enough steering lock with the way S30s are designed.

You mentioned you replaced the starter; maybe you should check that again and make extra sure you wired it up correctly as that is the very first thing in the chain the positive pole of the battery connects to.

serialnine also sell threaded sleeves, not sure what thread they use though so you'd have to ask them. http://www.serialnine.com/content/x7-suspension

Have you tried asking AZC?

Sorry, I don't know how to explain it better than what's in the link, it seems pretty straight forward with the photos

Well, if it wasn't a solution it wouldn't be in the guide?

It shows how it connects in the photos wow it looks like a really tight fit, nice work

The Diamond wheels; any big steelies are going to be heavy

There's nothing wrong with the quality, it's just the fact they are big steel wheels so they weigh a lot.

Won't you run the risk of tweaking the frame of the car in a minor collision now though? With something like the type 2 kit maybe you could use a more modern bumper technology and fill it with shock absorbing material which should be more effective at protecting the car against damage. My dad used to have a Ford Mondeo, he got rear-ended at the lights pretty hard and there was no damage to the bumper at all. I think it was filled with some sort of foam - it popped back out by itself with only a 2" scratch to show.

Also fit the door back on the car when you are getting the panel lined up and ready for welding, this way you can ensure it is in the correct position by lining up the front edge of the door with the step on the rocker.

If you have center caps installed try removing them; they might be fouling the hub and stopping the wheel sitting flush against the mating surface. Other than that, yes, it's the lugnuts that keep the wheel centered on the hub, if you have the wrong ones for the type of wheel you have then it could cause that problem. And sure as hell don't drive that car anywhere until you have the correct lug nuts installed!

18Racing, it was a limited run and it looks like they are sold out now Maybe a group buy could persuade them into getting hold of some more?

Rota RKRs 17x9.5 -20 and 17x8.5 -10 Both Royal Hyper Black but the fronts are clearly not as Royal Hyper as the rears Won't be going on the car for a while yet, too much other stuff to do first.

I fell in love with this kit after seeing the Phalanx S30!

I've not had any problems welding on weld-thru primer, I'm using U-POL power can primer: http://www.tptools.com/U-Pol-Weld-Thru-Primer,3185.html?b=d*12663

Either sand off the primer as you suggest or crank up the power level on the welder

Thanks for the info, I thought you had 17s on from your post Now I remember looking at your thread with those crazy wheels!

How wide are your wheels and what size tires are you using Jon?

Some of the dark areas look like they could go all the way through, but still, not too bad to be honest

probably because you're cutting off the flat end of the spring and one coil as well instead of just the flat end? Once the flat end of the spring has been cut the end coil then becomes the flat end when load is put on it.

All you have to do is stick your head in your wheel arch and measure the distance between one coil and the next, that will give you the answer you are looking for. Your car might have different springs installed to what anyone else is using, better to take the measurement yourself then there can be no question.

Techno Toy Tuning sell bolt in coilovers. Basically sectioned struts and welded collars, they do all the work for you and for a pretty good price to be honest. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z

Lower balljoints and strut top bearings in the front or maybe just re-grease them. Worth doing whilst it's all apart!