morbias

There is the standard / regular metric system (ISO metric) and then there is JIS metric, they both scale differently. Also, here in the UK we use metric for most smaller measurements but imperial for speeds / long distances, it's kind of messed up! [EDIT] ISO vs JIS: http://www.libertyfastener.com/Guide%20to%20information/Metric%20Thread%20Pitch%20Table.pdf

Yes; for instance Momo, Sparco, OMP, Isotta, Richbrook have a 6x70mm PCD. Nardi is 6x74mm.

Yep, jack the car up and make sure the wheels are spinning straight and are centered; unilug wheels are nothing new

JIS uses metric measurements but I think the thread pitch vs diameter scales differently to standard metric. So where you would have a standard metric M10 bolt with a 1.5 pitch, a JIS m10 bolt would have a 1.25 pitch

First you need to know the PCD of the wheel you are trying to bolt on

Actually I believe the threads are JIS

Also, the dust boot needs to be heated up before it will fit over the chassis ring, a couple of minutes with a heatgun does the trick

Sorry for the bad quality pics. Thread is about 15mm long if that helps.

Rota wheels carry a VIA stamp which means they have been tested to comply with JWL standards, plus they are an OEM wheel supplier for a lot of car manufacturers so I very much doubt they are going to explode for no reason...

Why not put it in one of the storage compartments behind the seats?

Hey bud, good to finally get stuck in eh? You might want to crank up the power on your welder, looks like you're not getting good penetration (*snicker*). Don't be scared of holding the trigger in either; that said, the quarter panel is the easiest panel to warp so move around a lot and give it plenty of time to cool down. You'll probably find that many of those welds don't hold once you start grinding them down, if that's the case then it would be a good idea to practice getting your welder settings right on some scrap before re-welding the quarter panel.

Do you have pertronix installed? Older models seem to burn out if you leave the ignition on

You need to remove all of it unless you want it coming back! Use a wire wheel drill attachment to get the rust in pitted areas, then use prep-ready / phosphoric acid to kill off any microscopic rust. Make sure there is no acid left when you prime though, in fact I would wire wheel the whole thing over again to make extra sure.

Why not just use strip discs on an angle grinder? Removes paint, filler and surface rust in seconds and scuffs the metal ready for paint. You could probably do the whole car with 8-10 discs.

Techno Toy Tuning coilovers use ground control and tokicos

That would depend on what an apater is?

Why would you want your right side blinker to blink when you activate the left blinker

Check the hazard switch, the turn signal wiring goes through that

It looks like an Arita Speed lip that's been modified

Good to hear you figured it out, make sure you don't go below the minimum allowable thickness of the rotor though

'This way up'

It does matter; if they are progressive the unsprung weight changes depending on which way up they are installed. If you have the progressive section at the bottom the unsprung weight goes up. It might only be a small difference but you would want it the same on both sides.

Unless they are progressive springs...

I read they actually decrease performance...